/6 to RB 71 Swinger

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Cazbah362

Cazbah362

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OK guys, changing the slant to a RB, I know it been done many times, but want to make sure I am not missing any of the Gotchas before I start. I have the Schumacher headers and mounts, so we should be good there. Two questions:

I have this great brake booster as seen in the picture. Any thoughts or should I do something special?

Also, I want to use the column shifter and factory linkage from the /6, what do I need to do.

Thanks in advance
 

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OK, does the linkage not line up? IS there something special
 
everything will work expect the kick down linkage.not sure about the brake booster. u will have to put the engine in first to find out.
 
RB's use up a lot of space where the shift linkage used to be. I would definately put a reverse valve body in it. Pull away from R and P.
 
Thanks - was a bit worried, I actually have a reverse manual body, so kick-down wont be an issue.
 
wow memory lane....i did this same swap on a 71 dart that was a slant 6 ...and i got a 440 in.....it was first done with an auto and you can forget about using the column shift linkage....it will never clear....unless your going to use a low deck (383/440) .....i have made it work before on other cars with 383 and the cheapy B-body headers.....Kickdown linkage is an issue but i mixed and match kickdown pieces from sb and trucks until i found a combo that worked, but contrary to belief kickdown linkage changes with considerably with body type and year .....but it can be made to work......about 3 months after i built mine i converted to 4 speed and if you decide to go 4 speed the z-bar is going to be a problem child....i finally fabbed my own z-bar but it was not easy and took a couple trys to finally get it.
 

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RaniDart70 said:
wow memory lane....i did this same swap on a 71 dart that was a slant 6 ...and i got a 440 in.....it was first done with an auto and you can forget about using the column shift linkage....it will never clear....unless your going to use a low deck (383/440) .....i have made it work before on other cars with 383 and the cheapy B-body headers.....Kickdown linkage is an issue but i mixed and match kickdown pieces from sb and trucks until i found a combo that worked, but contrary to belief kickdown linkage changes with considerably with body type and year .....but it can be made to work......about 3 months after i built mine i converted to 4 speed and if you decide to go 4 speed the z-bar is going to be a problem child....i finally fabbed my own z-bar but it was not easy and took a couple trys to finally get it.
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did u have power steering when u use b-body headers?
 
you might have to change to non-power brakes i really dont think the booster will fit....i used a heat sheild on my master cylinder too.
 
i think power steering would fit bcoz there is plenty of room on that side but i never run power steering myself and i never have problems driving the car with no power steering and no power brakes ....and i am an 85lbs. woman....so i am sure even a small man has more strength than me ...so if i can do it ...you guys can surely handle it ..


and i only used b-body headers on low decks ....on the raised deck 440 (pictured) i used B-body HP manifolds
 
RaniDart70 said:
i think power steering would fit bcoz there is plenty of room on that side but i never run power steering myself and i never have problems driving the car with no power steering and no power brakes ....and i am an 85lbs. woman....so i am sure even a small man has more strength than me ...so if i can do it ...you guys can surely handle it ..
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did u use b-body headman shorty headers?
 
no full tube fit ok , but you have to make a bend and get creative to clear the torsion bar mount on the rear of the sub-frame, right past the collector.
 
just a suggestion ....i would consider fabbing a K-frame ...i first built mine with Shumacher mounts and i didnt like it.....shumachers are of poor design...you are going to need torque strap with schumachers....i had better luck and a stronger k-frame by cutting off the ears and re-welded them to the correct location which is no more than an inch back. making a DC k-frame is another option ...i have also done that too with great results......but just to warn ...i was disappointed with the shumachers and to make them work you have to notch your K-frame ....weakening it.
 
Cazbah362 said:
OK guys, changing the slant to a RB, I know it been done many times, but want to make sure I am not missing any of the Gotchas before I start. I have the Schumacher headers and mounts, so we should be good there. Two questions:

I have this great brake booster as seen in the picture. Any thoughts or should I do something special?

Also, I want to use the column shifter and factory linkage from the /6, what do I need to do.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Cazbah, Quick question, is that booster from a K-car? If so that IS the recommended booster for BB swaps in FMJbody's from what I have read.
 
You can use the column shift linkage, you just have to put a few flat washers under the bushing tab at the trans to raise the bellcrank about 3/4". Then bend the inside arm of it that attaches the linkage to the trans to line it back up. Ive done it, it works fine. Yes you may need to change the lengths of the linkage a bit but if you want to use column shift you can do it.
 
Kernel - Not sure, I pulled it and used manual brakes.

72 - Wish I would have tried harder, I ended up putting a floor shift in it, works fine

This car has changed a lot from the start of this thread: mini tubbed, spring relocation, and much more - and since have swapped another engine since I popped a ring land with the hypers Thanks
 
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