63 Valiant - rust in front A-arm mounts

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B-i-n-g-o

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All, got all the front suspension off, and cleaning up, in preparation of new front end and disk brakes from DrDiff. Found some rust in the upper A-arm mount (driver's side, don't know passenger, yet). Wanted suggestions on repairing...I'm hoping I can just 'sister' an L-shaped piece over it, maybe a gusset, without having to tear it farther down. I want it safe, but it's a stock 170, we're an

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oldish couple wanting to enjoy a convertible, so not like I'm putting in a 340 and takin chicanes at 70...

For orientation, this is the front mounting point for the upper A arm, driver's side.

As always, thanks for the help!
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I would suggest taking a real good look at the rest of the frame rail which that bracket is welded to since it may also be rusted. If you don't have one, get a pnuematic needle gun ( harbor freight has them pretty cheap) and run the needle gun all over the frame from every angle possible. That will dislodge rusted metal. Wire wheels will usually polish the rust and give the illusion it is solid metal.

Then, my first attempt would be to weld in new frame patches, if necessary, followed by replacement bracket (if available). I found this in an old post but was unable to find the part on their site so you may want to call them yourself and ask. An old post on this forum said they are available from Auto Body Specialties but that sure sounds like a common name.

If not available, or if too expensive, and if you are skilled in fabrication and welding, or know someone who is, I would cut back to solid thick material and replace rusted areas with new patches. There is no need in my mind to bend it all in one or two pieces, but rather flat patches, welded together on the corners should work...but it will only be as good as the welds and the joint preparation. As a certified weld inspector I have seen some beautiful welds with zero penetration that failed miserably. This is a pretty critical safety component so I would recommend having the welds performed by someone with considerable experience. This may sound strange but I would trust a boiler maker over an auto body tech to perform a weld of this importance since they are tested at every job they go to with regards to penetration and other weld issues.
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Yes on the frame. If you look at the bottom of the bracket, where it's rusted, you can see a small hole in the frame where it rusted through. That was going to be the base of the 'L' shape. I'll blow apart the passenger side, so I know if I need to look for a weldor offering 'buy one, get one free'!

Thanks, appreciate it!
Steve
 
Sorry to say, but that frame rail is toast. It needs another one or at best that section of a good one, but it likely needs the whole thing. It's not the end of the world. It's an involved job, but it can be done.
 
Cuss.

Ok, let me do some studying and search the threads on it, before blanket asking you guys to tell me how to do it!

Thanks,
Steve
 
Ok, here it is after needle scaler. Not good. Rectangle with no features (other than rusty holes) is top of frame, inside UCA mounts. Other photo is front pair of UCA mounts. Going to finish getting all the old parts off passenger side, just to see if it's in as bad a shape.

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The frame rail replacement isn't terribly difficult. It entails a lot of spot weld cutting and grinding to get the old one off and then the biggest part of the job is relocating the replacement one in the right location. @Oldmanmopar has forgotten more than most will ever know about this kinda thing. Maybe he will chime in and give you some tips.
 
Oof...where would I even look for one? I don't even begin to know where to look. I also don't have a place to put a donor, I'd need to find the clip already removed, or somebody willing to let me bring my tools and use their power to tear it down.
 
Sorry, @Oldmanmopar , so overwhelmed at the prospect, I didn't thank you for the information and pictures on how to go about it.

Thanks for the information, I appreciate it!
Steve
 
Passenger side all off, looks like it got a ragged patch on it sometimes in the past. I'll start looking for a clip, but I'm hoping a patch across the rust and new/good upper A arm brackets will work for me for a year or two, so I can enjoy it a while before blowing it THAT much apart.

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I did this repair on a 67 a-body years ago, there was a company at the time that made the upper frame rail 'bathtub' with the UCA mounts and shock mount, all 1 piece.
I had no luck finding a donor car, and was extremely pleased with the new parts.
I have no idea who made them, many years ago.
 
That would be AWESOME! I'll try to look for them, but anyone remember/know a source?

Thanks,
Steve
 
That looks like that'll work!!! I'll keep an eye out for their becoming available, and keep looking in the meantime.

Thank you, sir!
 
You do what you want, but it doesn't look to me like you have enough solid frame rail left to weld those to.
 
Waffling, so need more information...sorry!
@Oldmanmopar , I confess, the result on yours sure looks good! I just don't know if I've got the place to do it...regular two car garage. How do you get the frame clip off the crossmember and body at the firewall without destroying them? They look stamped tight and welded (photo of mine), but could be rivets, filled bolts under the paint, I don't know...

So, if I go this route:
finish taking off suspension...
Strip old clip (sheet metal, radiator, etc)
drop engine/trans in the cradle
Lift car with engine hoist so engine/trans can be pulled out of the way?
Pull off the old clip, put on the new one (just welded, or what)?
Put it all back together...

Also, you're close, in PA...know of any yards or anybody with spares/donors in the region that might have a good clip?

Just trying to figure out the best way to save her...thanks!
Steve

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spring center punch. spot weld drill , and patience with a lot of time. Once you do a couple they are easy. I see rust free parts cars on Facebook marketplace. Many models of the early a-body cars 63 -66 will work for a front clip.
 
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