64 valiant floor pan rust, practical fix?

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Yeah, I'll make sure it's good and dry. I knew I was getting water on the floor but when I noticed, it was after it already sat there for a while and I couldn't tell where it was comig from. The trail leaves no doubt.

Are the rear floors just surface rust? And that evaporust mixture is super cheap to make and works better than the real stuff.. would clean most of that up in a few hours
 
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Are the read floors just surface rust? And that evaporust mixture is super cheap to make and works better than the real stuff.. would clean most of that up in a few hours
On mine the back ones are for the most part and I cleaned them and just sprayed rust reformer , not knowing when I'd get to working on the interior. Which I'm still no,t but will have to take care of this problem . The fronts are a different story .
 
Careful.. if it eats to much there's no Swiss cheese for the fiberglass to bond with


Are the read floors just surface rust? And that evaporust mixture is super cheap to make and works better than the real stuff.. would clean most of that up in a few hours
 
Careful.. if it eats to much there's no Swiss cheese for the fiberglass to bond with
Good point. I'd leave as much of that metal in as I could if it is stable but compromised. The fiberglass does not bond to any of the metal or rust so let's no exaggerate or put out incorrect information. Makes you seem more like a salesman than a fixer . The bondo adheres to whatever you use on the metal to prepare for the bondo.
 
Does anybody know where a person can get a " mini-vac " or something to vacuum out areas like this. Do you just make an adapter for a small vac ? I would like to get as much of this stuff out as I can ,get it good and dry and do a 50 cent application of rust reformer. Maybe a shot of paint where I can get to.

Might even drill a hole or 2 to access the area and allow it to breathe better.
I modified a section of garden hose and. PvC connection onto my shop vac to clear the frame rail extensions and any other area I couldn't see directly into. Used a bottle brush attached to a straightened wire coat hanger to loosen things up.

A bore scope might be handy to peek in as well
 

I modified a section of garden hose and. PvC connection onto my shop vac to clear the frame rail extensions and any other area I couldn't see directly into. Used a bottle brush attached to a straightened wire coat hanger to loosen things up.

A bore scope might be handy to peek in as well

a bore scope is one of the best tools i ever bought.. never realized how handy they are
 
I modified a section of garden hose and. PvC connection onto my shop vac to clear the frame rail extensions and any other area I couldn't see directly into. Used a bottle brush attached to a straightened wire coat hanger to loosen things up.

A bore scope might be handy to peek in as well

a bore scope is one of the best tools i ever bought.. never realized how handy they are
I haven't even thought about a bore scope or was familiar with what one is till recently. I probably need to get one. I also think there would be something available to get into these areas and spray some treatment . Sorta like a " Ziebart " maethod but I don't think that was anywhere close to what it claimed.
 
I haven't even thought about a bore scope or was familiar with what one is till recently. I probably need to get one. I also think there would be something available to get into these areas and spray some treatment . Sorta like a " Ziebart " maethod but I don't think that was anywhere close to what it claimed.

Eastwood makes a spray can of undercoating/rust stopped with a 3' nozzle on it for inside the frame..

when i did mine i used a bug sprayer with phosphoric acid and sprayed the inside of the frame first, then coated it
 
I haven't even thought about a bore scope or was familiar with what one is till recently. I probably need to get one. I also think there would be something available to get into these areas and spray some treatment . Sorta like a " Ziebart " maethod but I don't think that was anywhere close to what it claimed.
After getting it clean and dry, Eastwood sells a frame rail rust encapsulator. The can comes with a long hose and 360 nozzle. Can be messy, so taping up everything to avoid overspray is essential.
 
Floors are a great place to teach yourself how to do proper metal repair.
Whether it be a proper fiberglass repair or a proper metal repair a person needs to take into consideration that there are other components like frame and torque box that this floor is welded to .
 
whats crazy is how much sand ends up in a frame rail.. i used a coat hanger and air nozzle to break dirt/sand up and blow it out... soooo much
 
Eastwood makes a spray can of undercoating/rust stopped with a 3' nozzle on it for inside the frame..

when i did mine i used a bug sprayer with phosphoric acid and sprayed the inside of the frame first, then coated it

After getting it clean and dry, Eastwood sells a frame rail rust encapsulator. The can comes with a long hose and 360 nozzle. Can be messy, so taping up everything to avoid overspray is essential.

Noted. I have a nice 12 volt sprayer that we use to kill weeds in the driveway.
 
Whether it be a proper fiberglass repair or a proper metal repair a person needs to take into consideration that there are other components like frame and torque box that this floor is welded to .
Yup

IMG_20240901_171527162_HDR.jpg
 
Careful.. if it eats to much there's no Swiss cheese for the fiberglass to bond with
you fool! you absolute buffoon! do you know nothing about top quality body rot repair?!?

first you bondo it, then you put fiberglass over it. and if you need structural integrity or to bridge a larger gap, that's where the chicken wire comes in.
 
you fool! you absolute buffoon! do you know nothing about top quality body rot repair?!?

first you bondo it, then you put fiberglass over it. and if you need structural integrity or to bridge a larger gap, that's where the chicken wire comes in.
Chicken wire? way overkill.... it's not a tank... cardboard backing to keep the bondo in place... and let it rip
 
I can't believe you guys think the OP's floors are so bad. They look pretty decent to me. A few pinholes? I've seen a LOT worse.
There's usually someone that has to act like they're better, but aren't capable at looking ar someone's situation and wants as described.
They should keep that in mind if they want to be of any help. I haven't been impressed with one yet that didn't do that. I would not let them near my car.
 
Yes, chicken wire builds back all the structure even the one you never had. Best type is the used stuff with a beak or 2

you fool! you absolute buffoon! do you know nothing about top quality body rot repair?!?

first you bondo it, then you put fiberglass over it. and if you need structural integrity or to bridge a larger gap, that's where the chicken wire comes in.
 
Gotta hide the newspapers around 'OL Kemper though... He's been known to putty in the comic sections cause they were to serious and not following the "TERMS OF AGREEMENT"
Every once in a while, Charlie brown bleeds through the bondo so he adds more
 
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