65 Barracuda Pro Touring project

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Here's a link to a picture from a Mopar Muscle article. Plenty of clearance on the '65 Barracuda. Headers look the same, so you probably have the right ones.

I notice that you have an aftermarket front suspension, too. The magazine article was with a factory K. I wonder if your motor is farther to the left than factory. Pretty sure the offset was more than an 1", but I don't remember for sure.

DionR,
Wow, wish I saw this earlier! I spoke with TTI yesterday and they said its possible that shimming the motor may need to happen as factory QC back then was not great. The pipes were made to fit a 273 4-speed. I'm beyond "shimming", however. I don't like modifying the inner fender but at least it's not like cutting for fender wells. In the end I think this science project should look and work well.

Thanks for the help, everyone.
 
V8val,

Wow! Great pic of your car! I'm after what you've got, a fast vintage Mopar that can handle a corner.
I've already notched and boxed the frame last night, pics coming soon. I don't want to risk header flange leaks by bending the tubes. The EFI is thrown off easily with that sort of thing. Shock tower work starts tomorrow.

Thanks mate, She drives a bit flatter than that these days too :)
 
I also have a friend that's putting these in a '66 Cuda. He says the instructions say to move the motor to the passenger side by 3/4". (Glad i asked as i bought mine from a guy in Hawaii on ebay...no instructions). I assume thats what you've done. The factory already has it over by 5/8 and I don't want to go any further. RMS sent me 1/4" offset motor mount bushings, the result being what I have pictured. I'm removing the driver side shock mount, moving the inner fender metal and notching the frame rail for room.

It's a *****, but I love this stuff! I appreciate everyone's input.

The only motor adjustment i did was add a small shim on the passenger side so it would clear the T bars better, i did not shift the motor over, and it did not say anything in the instrutions if i remember about doing anything like that. good luck they are a ***** but they do fit and work great.
 
65Vsignet,

Thanks for the information. I found that the RMS K frame and motor mount locations are my issue. I used the offset bushings they provided and massaged the driver side inner fender to get this fit. I'm also adding pics of the car.
 

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Had to buy a VERY expensive starter to clear the headers. It's going on this weekend. Also having the rear narrowed to clear the rear wheels/tires. The factory axles didn't have enough spline so Moser's are coming. It'll be ready by Monday or so. I'm aiming for June and the Hot Rod Power Tour which starts near me this year. I'm also looking at a Rebel Wiring harness. The money is killing me but I really don't want any regrets on this project!
 
Ok, I'm finally getting going again. I wound up having to buy a RobbMC starter to clear the TTI headers. It's a planetary gear starter with a billet nose piece. Nice part...better be for $300.00! I also had the rear axle narrowed to better clear the outer wheel well. After narrowing the axles didn't have enough spline so Moser's had to be bought. I was concerned with tube trueness after welding the 4-link ears on, and with good reason. One tube end was almost 1/4" out! It's straight now and should have no scrub. I also ordered a Rebel wiring harness because I couldn't stand mixing the NICE efi wiring with the 48 year old nastiness. I also got the rest of the exhaust put on.
 

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Thanks 72BBSwinger.

You're driving the other A body that I'd want! I'm installing wiring now. Brake and fuel lines are next. Narrowing the rear seat is after that and finally a/c will finish it. But hey, they're never REALLY done, right?! I'll be posting more pics soon. Does anyone out there run TTI's system with Dynomax mufflers? I had 40 series Flowmasters with the 340 and it sounded mean. Can't wait to get this fired up.
 
I wish my rear sat that low on my Street Linx. The stance is perfect. I had to use the bottom 2 holes on the coilover mounts to get low enough.

I see you use the center 2 holes for the coilover mounts. Do you have the coilovers lowered all the way down?

Thanks,

Riddler
 
Riddler,
My coil overs are set half way up. I remember talking with Bill about my preferences and he said I'd need a shorter shock. I'll check to see if I have the boxes and send you the part number. Im sure QA1's come in MANY sizes!
 
Interior pic before removing all the original wiring.
 

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Thanks for the remarks from everyone! I'll have videos of the car ASAP.
The starter is a Robbmc starter part number PN 3005. It's supposed to be the only one that fits with TTI headers.
 
Here's some recent pics from last week. You'd think I'd be driving the hell out of it but I've had a couple of setbacks. The first was the relocated oil filter adapter blowing off in the middle of a 2nd gear burnout at 6,000 RPM! No damage done and I made my own fitting out of a 3/4-16 bolt that I drilled and machined the head off of. The second was the water pump locking up and breaking the serpentine belt at 40 MPH. Turns out my engine builder at E.T Automotive didn't tighten down the cam bolt that holds the fuel eccentric on. It backed out and punched a hole in my timing chain cover! Another first for me. Again, no major engine damage (could have been a bunch worse at 90 MPH on the highway). I'm putting the timing cover and water pump on today.
 

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Hi Max,

Just read the thread. Love your build. I'm just starting teardown on a REALLY rough '64 Dart GT. I regret that Mother never put the fastback glass on the longer 111" wheelbase platform. A buddy has offered me a 'cuda rear window, wonder what it would take? :-k Maybe someday...

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see tire sizes, and only that the front rims are 17 x 8? Can you give me the specs, and did you minitub the rear, or are they fitted in stock wheelhouses?

Mike in FL
 
Thank you, Mike.

I did mini tub the rear fenders by almost 2" per side (about 1/2" from the frame rail). The tires are 315/35-17 rear on 17 x 10.5" rims and 245/45-17 front on 17 x 8" rims. The Alterktion front suspension is probably the ONLY reason the front wheels fit. I did get some tire rub when turning all the way but eliminated it after raising the front coil overs to stock height. The rear tires are 12" wide and cleared the wheel wells only after narrowing the rear.
 
Hey max I essentially have your suspension set up and also narrowed the rear end 2" on each side. I'm going to order wheels soon and out of curiosity what is the back spacing on your wheels? I'm going to run 315's as well even though those suckers are pricey but damn they look wicked especially on a narrow car. Do you have any shots of the *** end on the ground? I'd like to see the profile if you do. I'm excited to get my wheels but not excited to shell out 3 grand not including tires.
 
Max,

Thnx for the reply. How about pics of the tub job, especially from inside. I'd also like to see it after carpet and upholstery.

Mike
 
gtmopar,

Back Spacing is 6.8" (174mm). The offset is 1.10 inches or +28mm. Here are some pics:
 

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