'65 Dart - A833 OD Hurst Shifter problems

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CMKirk

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Hello!

Finally got the A833 swap in my '65 Dart DONE a week or so ago. Took it for the inaugural ride...and the shifter jams/hangs up on the 2-3 shift about every 3rd time.
I was aware that I might have issues when I got the shifter...it had internal rust and thick coat of dust/dirt, but it seemed to shift fine when I tested it out of the car. I sprayed it down with PBlaster and then oil, but no dice. Jam city.

The shifter is a Hurst factory shifter (Comp Plus, IIRC) that has an integral shift lever. Please correct me if I'm wrong...I haven't pulled it back out yet.

I've already checked out a number of "how to rebuild your Hurst shifter" vids, and it doesn't seem that hard.

Is there a specific rebuild kit for the factory/OEM Hurst shifter as opposed to an aftermarket shifter? I'd don't want to waste time, effort, and expense with the wrong kit

If I decided to go new instead, what Hurst shifter and lever would I have to use on the A833 in an A body?

Thanks...

Chris
 
You made no mention of cleaning the shifter. Did you just oil and grease down a nasty shifter?
 
RustyRatRod said:
You made no mention of cleaning the shifter. Did you just oil and grease down a nasty shifter?
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I sprayed the shifter mechanism down with carb clean and brake clean, which cleaned it up pretty well, then penetrating oil, followed with grease throughthe zerk.
 
Could very well be a synchronizer issue.
 
Does the shifter box have adjustable stops on the front and rear of the box?
 
Murray said:
Why do you think the issue is the shifter and not the trans?
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Because if I jiggle the shifter and pull it to the right like Im going into reverse, it will shift normally. Could be the transmission, but Im starting with the simplest thing first
Demonracer said:
Does the shifter box have adjustable stops on the front and rear of the box?
Click to expand...
It does not. It's an OEM shifter made by Hurst.
 
Do the shifter rods fit tightly in the ears on the transmission, as well as the ears on the shifter. If not, you need the bushing kit to keep the linkage from being sloppy. I believe Brewer's has the kit if you need it.
 
Demonracer said:
Do the shifter rods fit tightly in the ears on the transmission, as well as the ears on the shifter. If not, you need the bushing kit to keep the linkage from being sloppy. I believe Brewer's has the kit if you need it.
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Yes, the shifter rods are fairly snug. Im also using the correct spring loaded clips to secure them.
 
Do they have bushing on the rods, or are they loose enough that they need bushings? If there is more than 1/32 to 1/16 of movement, you probably need bushings.
 
If you have a grease zirc it is out of a truck or van or one of the later A or F Body cars with the O/D. It is basically a 68 to early 72 A-Body shifter. What rods and levers are you using? What mounting pad are you using? The best shifter for your car is one for a 64-65 A-Body.
 
66fs said:
If you have a grease zirc it is out of a truck or van or one of the later A or F Body cars with the O/D. It is basically a 68 to early 72 A-Body shifter. What rods and levers are you using? What mounting pad are you using? The best shifter for your car is one for a 64-65 A-Body.
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Yes, that is the shifter I have. It came with the transmission, although I'm not sure if it's original to the transmission. The rods, levers, and mounting pad are also the ones that came w/the transmission and shifter. The levers are just a piece of flat stock with a flat-sided hole on one end for the mount and a round hole for the shift rod in the other. I had to cut the floor to clear the shift rods, but based on what I've read, that's not uncommon.

The only modification I had to make was to lengthen the 3-4 rod, as it wasn't long enough to reach the hole in the downward facing 3-4 shift lever, so it may not have been the correct rod. I extended the length about 2" by welding in a section of rod so that it worked. For that 3-4 rod, I made sure that the rod was in the center of the threaded adjusting section on the shifter end, so there's plenty of room to play with the adjustment, about 1" in either direction.
 
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