'65 Dart Front Bushing Project

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Aaron65

Aaron65

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One of the summer car projects I have planned is to replace the LCA/UCA and strut rod bushings in my '65 Dart. I've already replaced all ball joints and the idler arm.

I like to plan ahead for any tools I'll need, so I'm fishing for advice. I have a cheapo Harbor Freight 12-ton press, but I'm not against building one out of washers and a long bolt either. If you have an efficient way of doing the job or any good advice (and any tool specifications!), I'd appreciate it.

One last thing: is it best to leave the torsion bar in or remove it before removing the LCA? Thanks!
 
Aaron65 said:
One last thing: is it best to leave the torsion bar in or remove it before removing the LCA? Thanks!
Click to expand...

You gotta remove the torsion bars (or at least slide them back) to remove the LCAs
 
Thanks!

I noticed in some other threads that some people have used rent-a-tools for the bushings. Anyone know if they're using a ball joint press or something else?
 
Upper ball joints are a screw in, definitely not pressed in!
 
No, I'm talking about the bushings. I've already replaced the ball joints.

I read that some people will use a ball joint press to push out the bushings. I may be making that up from memory, however. :)
 
Aaron65 said:
No, I'm talking about the bushings.

I read that some people will use a ball joint press to push out the bushings. I may be making that up from memory, however. :)
Click to expand...

I have a 20 ton Harbor Freight press that I use to press out and install the new UCA bushings. Also use it to press the LCA pivot shaft into the OEM rubber bushing, then press that assembly into the LCA. I believe others have used the ball joint press as well as using a HD vise.
 
Thanks! I'll have to scare up some press paraphernalia when I get the arms out.
 
You asked about specialty tools - you may need a T-bar remover. A lot of guys have had success by completely backing off the T-bar adjuster, disconnecting the LCA from the lower ball joint, removing the nut on front of the strut bar and then taking a crow bar and prying back the LCA from the K frame. Remember to remove the T bar clip at the cross member, also remove the UCA bump stop to completely relax the LCA.
I was able to move the LCA but not enough to pop out the T bar. Eventually got the removal kit from Mancini Racing; thought I'd only use it once, it's been 3 times already in a little over a year. Worth the $30 investment.
And since you're planning ahead, a few things to consider if you haven't done already:
- boxing the LCA's. PST has a kit or you can make your own with scrap metal
- new shocks. Both my cars run Bilsteins - they make a huge difference
- rebuild the steering box. Firm Feel and Steer n Gear are the two best
 
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