'68 Barracuda Notch

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Ever hear the saying that the last 10% takes 90% of the time? Sheesh; everything is complicated. I found out that my transmission linkage is incorrect, so I had to order that. I found out that my carburetor linkage is wrong, so I had to order that. One of the clips on my kick down linkage is broken so I'm on the hunt for a replacement. I think the throttle cable I ordered is too long, but not 100% sure yet.

I've got most of my wiring done and neatly bundled and wrapped in wire loom. The only part I have left is the NSS and reverse lights wires. I installed a weather pack connector on my new electronic distributor for TrailBeast's HEI upgrade.

Otherwise, all I have left is to run my transmission cooler lines (I'll do that once the transmission linkage is installed), swap my plugs, fluids, prime the motor and installed the distributor and wires. I think that's it, but for every day that I work on this car, I have to buy three more things.
 
Everything is connected and ready to go. My transmission pan leaked because the pan was a little tweaked. I dropped it and straightened it as best as I could. It sealed pretty flush, but I used a little bit of RTV just to make sure it was sealed well where it was leaking. Once it cures, I'll be ready to try and see if the car will crank and run. I have a couple bare wires that I'll tie up once I know everything works and I may reroute some to make it look a little better, but this is essentially what its going to look like. I'm just praying it starts.

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Its alive! It still needs some tuning and an exhaust, but I'm happy.

[ame]http://youtu.be/RxSCmtloT00[/ame]
 
my wife can't understand why I watch clips like this...
Nice Job!
 
My throttle and kickdown linkage was all for a 2bbl setup so I've ordered a Lokar cable setup for both. Unfortunately its coming from GA and FedEx is behind with all the snow and traffic issues.

I also noticed the last time I had it running that I leaked some transmission fluid from the bell housing. I'm hoping that I just over filled it and its not the front pump seal.
 
I finally got my seat belts installed in the car. Its the kit from seatbeltsplus.com.

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Its very similar to the ones that XV Motorsports was selling, but I like the buckle design better on these.

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Please excuse the faded carpet. I have the back seat out right now so I could install the rear belts, but I will probably have to carry my exhaust through the car to the muffler shop. My new Doug's headers are longer than what I had on before so I'll have to get the pipes cut down.

I got my new Lokar throttle cable, bracket and kickdown cable kit. Installation went fine with the bracket and throttle cable until I trimmed the housing of the kickdown cable without removing the cable first :violent1:. At least it doesn't have a specialty fitting on the end so hopefully I can just find some replacement cable without having to order from Lokar.
 
I picked up a fire extinguisher for the car. I'll probably buy the H3R seat mount even though it's kinda pricey but I'd rather have it handy when I need it than have it rolling around in the floor.

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I got all exterior lights working (except the reverse lights - I still can't figure that one out).

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It just needs to have the brakes and power steering bled and then exhaust.
 
So I tried to bleed the brakes today and failed. The rear flex line was so jammed full of gunk that I couldn't get any fluid through it. I tired to clean it out, but without any success. Unfortunately, all the stores locally didn't carry it, so I'll have to order it and then wait till I have another helping hand to pump the pedal for me.
 
hey Ryan - I used the flex line that came with the rear end I put in my 68. It was out of a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. You might check again at the local stores. Be sure and compare the end threads.
 
68coupe said:
hey Ryan - I used the flex line that came with the rear end I put in my 68. It was out of a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. You might check again at the local stores. Be sure and compare the end threads.
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Do you know which axle? I might have one from a 8.25 just sitting around.
 
The rear is a Chrysler 8 1/4. I looked and the fitting on the axle side is also the junction for the brake lines. The vent tube screws down through the junction into the axle housing.
 
I didn't have what I needed at the house so I just ended up getting a new one. Brakes seem to be fine.

The car moved under its own power for the first time today. The kickdown cable has not been adjusted yet so it only really idles forward sorta. I need to adjust that and make sure the car can get up and go. I have an appointment at the exhaust shop next week so hopefully it will be one step closer to driver status.
 
Turns out it wasn't just my kickdown cable; the fluid level was pretty low as well. I still need to adjust the kickdown some more because it didn't want to go into third when driving.

However, on its maiden voyage it did set off a car alarm and that makes me happy. Now I just need to figure out how to operate air shocks so I can get that rear end down...

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Ryan - noticed you have the stainless "arm burner" trim on the top edge of the doors. Were you planning to (1) leave it on, (2) remove it, or (3) get the matching pieces for the rear side windows? Just curious. Second question I had was more general, was that trim only on vinyl top cars?

Oh... and I love the 1968 Notch Barracudas. My personal favorite!
 
I kinda like it. It would be nice to find the rear pieces. I didn't know what they were called so I didn't know how to search for them. Unfortunately it's the least of my cosmetic worries. I need to start saving for paint.

As far a I know this wasn't a vinyl top car but I don't have a broadcast sheet. Would that show on the fender tag?
 
I'm still diggin this build-I really can't wait to see the finished product...of course, I'd drive it as is :)
 
rymanrph said:
I kinda like it. It would be nice to find the rear pieces. I didn't know what they were called so I didn't know how to search for them.
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Window Belt Molding, the rear pieces are hard to find for a coupe.

rymanrph said:
As far a I know this wasn't a vinyl top car but I don't have a broadcast sheet. Would that show on the fender tag?
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I don't know. But a vinyl top car would have the trim piece at the base of the A pillar and around the back of the rear window to the base of the C pillar. A bit of work to remove the molding and evidence that it was there. Plus the belt molding has holes that would have been filled also.
 
I got the exhaust in today, so now its pretty much driveable. The rear end settled a little bit but its still sticking up kinda high. The front is way too low; you can see in the above picture where the tire pulled the fender back when I backed out of the driveway. I'm not sure if its the wheel/tire or the height or both.

It doesn't appear that my gauges are working. The speedometer is, but its inaccurate. The other four don't appear to move, so I need to address that. I'm not comfortable driving around without a temp and oil pressure gauge. I put about 15 gallons of gas in it, but it still reads empty, so that's important to fix too.
 
check all the grounds that's where I would start. cool *** car you've got there, you will have lots of fun driving it around, and love those wheels.
 
I think the oil pressure gauge is actually working (but I know the gas and temp gauges aren't). I finally got the license and theft bureau to do their inspection this morning so the title can be issued (almost a year after I bought it).

The little bit of driving that I've done has revealed that my tires rub badly. So new ball joints and wheels and tires are in order.

I'm looking at 17" front and 18" rear TTII wheels. Don't know width, bs or tire sizes yet, but I'm working on it.
 
I got the upper ball joint replaced on the driver side this weekend and I'm 90% sure I know the wheel tire package I'm going with.

I went with some friends to the drag strip this weekend and while this car will not be a drag car, I can't wait to get it out there and have a little fun with it.
 
rymanrph said:
I got the exhaust in today, so now its pretty much driveable. The rear end settled a little bit but its still sticking up kinda high. The front is way too low; you can see in the above picture where the tire pulled the fender back when I backed out of the driveway. I'm not sure if its the wheel/tire or the height or both.

You can easily adjust the front end height by adjusting the torsion bar adjusting screws located between the LCA sections. You just need a 3/4" socket on a ratchet wrench or breaker bar. Between all the car swapping and other switching I missed what engine came in this car originally. If it was a /6 then you probably have the matching torsion bars for that engine. Typically the smallest diameter available at .83 or .85 depending if it had A/C. back in the day it was common to use /6 bars on race cars and hi-po street cars to get the front end to rise on launch but....if you are actually going to drive this car and want it to handle curves better, you should increase the bar diameter.
The standard 340 bar was .87 and most 383's got .89 but these are generally considered soft by today's standards.

.83 = 100 #/in (wheel rate) /6
.85 = 110 #/in 318 or /6 w A/C
.87 = 120 #/in 340 and also 318 w/ A/C
.89 = 130 #/in 383 (biggest factory bar)
.92 = 150 #/in
.99 = 200 #/in
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I've thought of that and I have actually have done some adjustments. The car was originally a slant six, but it does have the V8 k-frame with the spool mounts, so I guess its possible they were upgraded to, but not likely. I could upgrade them, but I'm trying my hardest with this build not to upgrade items that will be replaced later. Long term, I don't want to stick with a factory k-frame and torsion bars, so I will live with what I have for now.
 
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