68 dart map light operation questions

-
moparmat2000

moparmat2000

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 13, 2010
Messages
20,884
Reaction score
10,858
Location
Grand Tetons
I just wired in a light package w keyhole light in my 67 barracuda dash during rewiring of the dash. These werent available this way but i modified the car to have it in there. Anyways,

i used a 68 schematic for the map light part, and when bench testing all this i found that the map light will turn on automatically when its switch is in the on position as a floor courtesy lamp when the doors are opened, and with doors closed it will only light when you turn the headlight switch all the way up to light the dome lamp.

Can anybody here who has this option on a 68 dart verify if this is the correct operation of this? I noticed in the 69 wiring there is no maplight switch as it must be wired directly into the domelight circuit. I was assuming this was wired independently so when the doors are closed , you could turn on just the map light, and not night blind the driver.

This could be as easy as adding a 3rd lead into the switch itself, it seems to pick up its power off the door pin switch wiring, on one end, and uses accessory hot on the other end,

However if the way i wired it is normal operation for this, i will leave it be, as the dash is all boxed up and back in storage.

Thanks in advance
Matt
 
Last edited:
moparmat2000 said:
I just wired in a light package w keyhole light in my 67 barracuda dash during rewiring of the dash. These werent available this way but i modified the car to have it in there. Anyways,

i used a 68 schematic for the map light part, and when bench testing all this i found that the map light will turn on automatically when its switch is in the on position as a floor courtesy lamp when the doors are opened, and with doors closed it will only light when you turn the headlight switch all the way up to light the dome lamp.

Can anybody here who has this option on a 68 dart verify if this is the correct operation of this? I noticed in the 69 wiring there is no maplight switch as it must be wired directly into the domelight circuit. I was assuming this was wired independently so when the doors are closed , you could turn on just the map light, and not night blind the driver.

This could be as easy as adding a 3rd lead into the switch itself, it seems to pick up its power off the door pin switch wiring, on one end, and uses accessory hot on the other end,

However if the way i wired it is normal operation for this, i will leave it be, as the dash is all boxed up and back in storage.

Thanks in advance
Matt
Click to expand...

If like the Barracuda, they made 3 versions in 69. A01 option had the ML switch and ignition, glove lamp etc. They also had a low end version with no switch just the ML no other A01 lamps. Thirdly they had a dealer service installed option. All three work the same way cause the switch (if used) is identical.

The 68 diagrams only seems to show the Factory A01 style option.

My 69 is A01 option and the lamp lights on door operation when the switch is (Down or off) . The switch has 2 poles that are common to each other when the switch is off ( and passes the door ground) and when the switch is "on" 1 pole grounds to case (like simulating a door switch open) to operate the lamp from inside while the doors are closed. There is no dimmer operation. Here are Factory 68/69 Diagrams for Barracuda, the 69 shows all three versions. As you know The 67 diagrams were lacking at best.

I would think the Dart would be the same.
 

Attachments

  • 68 Barracuda Factory Wiring REV 2.pdf
    120 KB · Views: 336
  • 69 Barracuda Factory Wiring REV 3.pdf
    127.2 KB · Views: 167
  • 67 Barracuda Factory WD REV 1.pdf
    72.5 KB · Views: 140
Last edited:
Hi 69383S,

Thank you for the information. I looked at both the 68 and 69 diagrams you sent. I wired it up like the AO1 package. The full monty, ignition light time delay relay and all. I think the problem is not how i wired it, but the fact that my switch which is not a factory switch but just a plain toggle. Its an SPST (single pole single throw). Hot in one direction.

I did not realize that the switch mopar used was a negative case ground and a SPDT (single pole double throw) type or hot in both directions. The factory switch would be ideal but is a bit expensive. This is why i went this route. The problem i think is that its picking its power either from the door switch feed, and from the common hot feed that feeds the time delay relay. So either way its going to come on with the car door, and on when turning on the dome light which i would think should be normal operation when the switch is in the off position the way the wiring schematic shows it getting its power.

But since i dont have a double throw switch its only getting power off the door wiring, and not power from the pink feed off the time delay relay which gets its power tapped off the cigar lighter. This would allow the map light to operate independently of the doors and headlight switch.

I will get an aftermarket SPDT with center ground. This will allow it ro turn on on in either direction. The 3rd or center prong is ground i will make a loop and use a large ring terminal to loop the ground over the switch or i can just buy the correct switch if i can get one cheap enough.

So let me get this straight, switch is in off position away from driver allows map light to operate as courtesy floor lamp?

Switch in the on position towards driver allows lamp in the on position without dome lamp operation?

If your car has the AO1 package, can you humor me and rotate the headlight knob to full bright to turn on the dome lamp, with map switch off and see if it turns on with the dome lamps as a courtesy light. It should the way these schematics show the wiring because on one leg its tied into the dome lamp switched feed, on the other side its fed off the cigar lighter common hot.
 
Yes It does. The headlight switch grounds the yellow D terminal (which is the same as opening the door)


The ML has always on +12 on the pink (fed from lighter) it only lights when the switch is down and either door opens or dimmer full to click (shorting the yellow to ground) or when the switch is flipped up anytime. I would call the switch SPST due to the contacts are common in down position but only the brown leg is shorted to case in the up position and the yellow goes open! That way the domes do not turn on. Bad thing Is, as designed it can be a battery killer if left up! Course if you leave the dimmer full twist it is no different!

As a ML this seems correct to me cause I only want that light on with the switch while my navigator reads the map going down the road at full tilt. The driver would be distracted by the domes!:lol:

I see we're you are going but have to think it out a bit! Did you do the headlight warning buzzer as well. My door switches are 2 prong type as shown on the 69 drawings.
 
Last edited:
I may have to bite the bullet and just buy the map light switch. But i do believe it will be a SPDT as it has power running thru it in both up on (map) or down off (courtesy)

I didnt have the lights on buzzer box with the 69 harness i got with a stack of parts, and was not interested in modifying a brand new M&H dash harness so looking at it i realized without the buzzer feed wires this thing will plug into the cigar lighter harness for one feed, and plug into the dome light wires at the pin switches for the other feed. It also was the cheaper 69 wiring harness without the map light switch. I added the light switch wiring in. I dont think the 68s had the buzzer. My 69 charger had that, i hated the racket it made. So i essentially modded it into the AO1 for 68. No buzzer. Lol
 
I replaced my main dash harness with a new M&H. The accessory harness for the A01 package including buzzer is separate and plugs into the main harness. My accessory harness was in great shape but the main was hacked into! Thinking about it, you may be correct on SPDT just does not seem that way with only 2 terminals as the third is shorted to case. I would send you a new switch and bezel but it is missing the nut and it is a non standard nut size and thread.
 
Damn. I coulda used that. Prob could find a nut for it, however can you humor me and ohm out that spare switch if you have a meter. Keep one lead to ground then flip it one directio. And find the hot, then flip it the other direction and see if the other terminal is hot to see if its a SPDT with a case ground hense only 2 connectors. I bet they did that to make it idiot proof for the assembly line.
 
Last edited:
Here you go. I gave up trying find the correct nut!!!!!!!!!!
First pic is down terminal to terminal. Second is up term to term. Third is up bottom term to case. 4th pic shows terminal relation, bottom terminal being the one brown hooks to and switches to case on up. I did not snap top terminal to case in up but it is open to either!

IMG_0166.JPG


IMG_0167.JPG


IMG_0163.JPG


IMG_0165.JPG
 
Last edited:
Wow that switch is pretty trippy. Its pole to pole one way, and yet pole to ground the other way. Its probably a specially made switch. I could probably science project this thing together with electronics store crap, but are you interested in selling the switch? I can prob find a nut for it.
 
Had to buy the whole service ( dealer install kit) just for the nut. It cost me $75. It has the harness, bulb, lamp housing, switch, bezel, hardware and directions short of the nut which I used. I would get rid of it for $50 + shipping.

IMG_0168.JPG
 
You can make that switch for sure, and it is unique. I have had a few discussions about these before and no one seems to believe that it operates that way. Based on the schematics it is the only way it could work, otherwise the ground would be back fed to the dome lights when the switch is operated! That would defeat having a map lamp that does not effect the drivers vision while in motion.
 
I'd hate to break up a nice dealer install kit just for the switch, however i need the correct switch for it to work right. I am headed to the junkyard tomorrow barring any problems. If i am lucky i will find the switch nut, and i will get back to you on this one way or another.
 
Last edited:
moparmat2000 said:
I'd hate to break up a nice dealer install kit just for the switch, however i need the correct switch for it to work right. I am headed to the junkyard tomorrow barring any problems. If i am lucky i will find the switch nut, and i will get back to you on this one way or another.
Click to expand...


That's alright! Yards are hard to find here in GA. anymore to locate things like that. Most will not let you walk them but take orders at the counter. I miss the days of roaming freely through a yard finding treasures! Find the nut and I will send you the switch and bezel. Only yard I have like that is 50 miles away and he would want $25 for the nut alone. It's a shame!!
 
Ouch $25 for the frigging nut ?!? Thank you for wanting to send me the switch i do appreciate that. I will look tomorrow. Will one off a rear defogger switch fit it? Theres a dart at my local yard with a rear defogger, maybe i can get the nut.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Ouch $25 for the frigging nut ?!? Thank you for wanting to send me the switch i do appreciate that. I will look tomorrow. Will one off a rear defogger switch fit it? Theres a dart at my local yard with a rear defogger, maybe i can get the nut.
Click to expand...

Yes ouch!

The former Mitchell Motor Parts, now AMS Obsolete. Lots of awesome Mopar only stuff at more than premium pricing!

The switch nut for a rear defogger should be the same or a vert top switch nut should be the same, but don't quote me on that!

Drive 100 miles round trip and the be asked to pay $25 for a nut, the $75 kit delivered to my house makes more sense than for a 10 cent nut and the grief!!! Say Mopar and they say show me your wallet!
 
Yep got 2 yards they let you walk thru here. First yard ya gotta walk. The owner is my mopar buddy that owns it. Bought my 67 cuda from him. The other one is 10 acres, and they let me drive my truck in. I work off the tailgate like its a workbench lol.

Heres some pix

20160227_125300.jpg


20160709_093443.jpg
 
Here is a pic from a vert. Nut for top looks the same.

photo.JPG
 
By the way thanks for not asking me why my choice of meters. Good electronic minded folks know when to use a digital versus a quality analog meter. This may not have been the best example but there are many more.
 
I think that switch was made by Indak. Is there a part number on it besides the 7 digit chrysler number. I got a friend who works at an electronics supply house. He might just be able to find these. Maybe the nut as well.
 
Nope, only number is 2977 in blue ink.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top