69 Dart quarters

-

Csommers

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2015
Messages
192
Reaction score
32
Location
Middletown, NY
So I am working on my 69 Dart I just bought for cheap. Well upon grinding I have stumbled upon a lot of bondo... What I am trying to figure out if I'll be able to get away with a skin or full replacement. How much can I cut before a skin is no longer usable and I have to do a full replacement?
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0383.jpg
    32.8 KB · Views: 247
  • IMAG0313.jpg
    23.5 KB · Views: 225
  • IMAG0177.jpg
    38.3 KB · Views: 220
I have one that looks similar to that. I will be interested to see the responses (subscribed).
 
I dnt see that muh rust thru. have you thought about hammer and dollying it out?
 
skins go up and over the top body line by about 2 inches
The problem with many reproduction skins is that the body lines are nowhere near as sharp and crisp as the originals. If you can stay an inch or so below the original top body line with a skin. If you can't, I would go with a quality full quarter from AMD. It kind of depends on what you can afford. A lot of replacement skins are kind of wavy and the body lines are sometimes off so they don't match up with the doors etc. Staying slightly below that body line will help control warping when you weld on the new panel.

From the looks of your car you're going to be very good with a MIG welder before you're done. What do the floors, trunk and frame rails look like?
 
Full quarters = less weld finishing. And you should replace the panel below the window that connects the two quarters.
 
The problem with many reproduction skins is that the body lines are nowhere near as sharp and crisp as the originals. If you can stay an inch or so below the original top body line with a skin. If you can't, I would go with a quality full quarter from AMD. It kind of depends on what you can afford. A lot of replacement skins are kind of wavy and the body lines are sometimes off so they don't match up with the doors etc. Staying slightly below that body line will help control warping when you weld on the new panel.

From the looks of your car you're going to be very good with a MIG welder before you're done. What do the floors, trunk and frame rails look like?



The front floor has already been ordered. The back really isn't bad. The trunk WAS decent but looks like a forklift punched through it. Rear rails suck. All will be replaced.



Full quarters = less weld finishing. And you should replace the panel below the window that connects the two quarters.

The rear deck panel is being replaced too.
 
Rip off the band-aid and do full quarters, you'll have a better outcome. Been there, done that.
 
So I have a similar need to replace quarter panels and front fenders. I'm new to this. What kind of experience have you guys had with suppliers like AMD with respect to quality and fit?
Thanks!
 
I've used AMD quarters on several cars and never had an issue. I can't say the same about Goodmark.
 
-
Back
Top