7 1/4 diff pinion oil seal replacement question.....

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Troub

67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
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need to replace the pinion oil seal on the differential. 7 1/4"
Would appreciate anyone's thoughts and guidance. Also is this seal correct? Pic....

IMG_1969.JPG
 
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My help is this.

Factory service manual to do it correctly.
Weekend warrior edition? I will assume in the car. Set parking brake. Block front wheels, jack up car and put on jack stands.
Crawl under car and bring your tools. remove drive shaft at rear axle end.
Take a prick punch and prick punch the top of the nut and the pinion on the face not the flat.
Loosen the nut and count the turns carefully until the nut is off the pinion.
Remove the seal. Clean with cleaner on a good cloth and wipe out the housing.
Drive in the new seal ( and yes that looks right but match up for sure.)
Reinstall the nut with lock tite on threads the return number of turns until the two prick punch marks line up. ( if the nut turned 12 times then the return is 12 rotations)
Top off axle oil and reinstall drive shaft.
Hope that helps.
 
My help is this.

Factory service manual to do it correctly.
Weekend warrior edition? I will assume in the car. Set parking brake. Block front wheels, jack up car and put on jack stands.
Crawl under car and bring your tools. remove drive shaft at rear axle end.
Take a prick punch and prick punch the top of the nut and the pinion on the face not the flat.
Loosen the nut and count the turns carefully until the nut is off the pinion.
Remove the seal. Clean with cleaner on a good cloth and wipe out the housing.
Drive in the new seal ( and yes that looks right but match up for sure.)
Reinstall the nut with lock tite on threads the return number of turns until the two prick punch marks line up. ( if the nut turned 12 times then the return is 12 rotations)
Top off axle oil and reinstall drive shaft.
Hope that helps.
Thanks Syleng,
My manual is talking about wrapping cord around the flange and using a spring balance to measure torque. I assumed that carefully marking and counting nut turns would do the same thing. It also says I'll need to bolt a flat piece of steel to the flange for leverage to remove the nut?
Appreciate the feedback!
 
No trouble at all. When I used to work at the dealer and was flat rate, that was how we did them. Was it 100%? no, but it did get the car out the door, they did not leak or make noise for years on daily driven cars.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it! LOL!
 
Looks like I may have a leaking rear pinion seal, but after looking at some videos & reading the R&R instruction on this page, it looks to me I just remove the 4 U joint cap nuts, then the u joint caps, then the infamous nut.. Mark location, count number of times it rotates before complete removal. 1 video was excellent, removing the nut & base plate was no big deal, just a lil light tapping with a hammer, no need for a puller. Guess Ill find out when I get into it.

This is the OEM Ball & Trunnion drive shaft.



IMG20250116143825.jpg


IMG20250116143831.jpg
 
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