7.25 pinion seal replacement questions can't get the pinion nut off

[Lasalle]

I need to replace leaking pinion seal in 1973 Dart with 7 1/4 differential. I read the Factory Service Manual and researched previous threads on this topic on this forum. Questions:

1. How do you hold the yoke still to remove the nut without the tool in the service manual?
2. When I reinstall the yoke on the pinion shaft, does it push right on or do I need a tool or some method to push it back on ?
3. Does the yoke need to go back on the shaft in the same position? What I mean is do the splines and grooves need to go back in the same grooves before disassembly?
4. According to the FSM this differential has a crush sleeve. Advice on getting the nut back on properly? A previous thread on this forum suggested marking the nut and the shaft and counting the number of turns to remove and using the same number of turns to tighten. Does this work?
5. Is it better to replace the crush sleeve? Is that more involved and harder?

I have a clicker style torque wrench and the older "bending bar" style.

 

[Darter6]

How do you hold the yoke still to remove the nut without the tool in the service manual?

large pipe wrench works.

When I reinstall the yoke on the pinion shaft, does it push right on or do I need a tool or some method to push it back on ?

You may have to tap it with a hammer to "remove" it. Same when putting it on after aligning the splines.
After removing the nut and washer spray it with penetrating oil to loosen the splines.

3. Does the yoke need to go back on the shaft in the same position?

Not really but it can't hurt.

According to the FSM this differential has a crush sleeve. Advice on getting the nut back on properly? A previous thread on this forum suggested marking the nut and the shaft and counting the number of turns to remove and using the same number of turns to tighten. Does this work?

Yes. Also use red Loctite on the threads. I usually go about 1/8 to 1/4 turn more.

Is it better to replace the crush sleeve? Is that more involved and harder?

That involves complete dis-assembly . You will be fine with above.

 

[Dana67Dart]

This works wonders.

Go to harbor freight and pick up 2 x 3/4" breaker bars.

And a torque adapter.

OR

My 67 said to torque to minimum of 250lbs (iirc)

Refer to the fsm.

 

[Lasalle]

This project is not going well. I cannot get the nut off. I cannot get enough leverage to break the nut free. I am using the plate tool with the holes recommended in a post above with a 3/4 ratchet and a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe with a 1 1/4" socket. I even heated it with a propane torch.

 

[Lasalle]

I borrowed an impact wrench and got it off. I counted, 8 1/2 turns.

 

[Lasalle]

Success! I replaced the seal and after a test drive the leak is gone. That is the 10th leak I fixed on this car since getting it back on the road about a year ago. Hopefully this will be the last for a while. I could not have done it without help from this forum. Thanks to all who responded.

 

[Darter6]

Long time joke, "It ain't a Mopar if it don't leak ".

 

[RustyRatRod]

How did you get the pinion bearing preload back right?

 

[Lasalle]

I used a dremel tool to make a notch on the pinion shaft, the nut and the yoke. I used the impact wrench just to loosen the nut. I carefully counted the number of turns to remove the nut. Upon reassembly, I put the nut back on with the same number of turns until the notches lined up again like before. I used the impact wrench to tighten the last turn. It was good the notches lined up because neither the impact wrench nor the breaker bar could get the nut to turn anymore. The impact wrench was from Harbor Freight and did not have a high torque rating.
Did I do it right?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I used a dremel tool to make a notch on the pinion shaft, the nut and the yoke. I used the impact wrench just to loosen the nut. I carefully counted the number of turns to remove the nut. Upon reassembly, I put the nut back on with the same number of turns until the notches lined up again like before. I used the impact wrench to tighten the last turn. It was good the notches lined up because neither the impact wrench nor the breaker bar could get the nut to turn anymore. The impact wrench was from Harbor Freight and did not have a high torque rating.
Did I do it right?

Almost. When you remove the nut, you remove the bearing preload. When you retighten to the same place, you don't have preload anymore. I always go a few degrees "more" than it was upon removal. That way, you restore some preload. It's always worked "for me".

 

[Lasalle]

I know, I read a few places to tighten a few degrees more. I just could not get it to move anymore with the tools I had. The only way I can see to make it tighter is to use a more powerful impact wrench. I was using jack stands. I had the tires about 8 inches off the ground. There was too much flex in the breaker bar setup and I could not get enough torque that close to the ground. Using a breaker bar might work better with the car on a lift.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I know, I read a few places to tighten a few degrees more. I just could not get it to move anymore with the tools I had. The only way I can see to make it tighter is to use a more powerful impact wrench. I was using jack stands. I had the tires about 8 inches off the ground. There was too much flex in the breaker bar setup and I could not get enough torque that close to the ground. Using a breaker bar might work better with the car on a lift.

I understand. I don't think the lack of the extra few degrees will hurt anything. It'll be fine.

 

[JDMopar]

I was taught by an old time mechanic to line the marks you make back up to exactly where they were. He was one of those old guys, that if he told you a Piss ant could pull a wagon.....you might as well hitch the little feller up! I never had a problem afterwards by doing it the way you have done. He told me twice to clean the pinion surface where the seal rides really good and to clean the pocket the seal sits in equally as well. I'll do the next one that comes along the same as always.