'70 Dart from Canada

-
Soldered up some of the pins on the gauge cluster and added some ground wires for the lights today. Also found out from my co worker who is more familiar with mopars that the alternator gauge is actually an ammeter, needless to say I will be bypassing it when I put the gauge back in.

IMG_0161.jpg
 
I hope you are installing all new bushings? that lower is toast.I also paid a good price for my califiorna rust free car it is worth trust me.Your looks very clean,nice score.repaint the car or not,I ask because your doing your int first.I always paint the car first,no matter how good the painter is they always seam to get over spray here and there,than I reasembell.Good luck PS were in Canada are you from?
 
Yes of course the bushings are getting replaced, I just put a big chunk of rubber in there to mask the bores during bead blasting. I'm from Vancouver.


In the middle of machining up some custom strut rod pieces today.

IMG_0168.jpg


IMG_0169.jpg


IMG_0170.jpg
 
Design of the strut rod on lca side. The clevis is made from 1.5" 304SS, rod is 7/8 17-4SS. The K-member side would be similar to the Hotchkis kit except without the hooky washer/spacer setup.

strut rod.jpg


strut rod clevis fea.jpg
 
ronald55555 said:
Soldered up some of the pins on the gauge cluster and added some ground wires for the lights today. Also found out from my co worker who is more familiar with mopars that the alternator gauge is actually an ammeter, needless to say I will be bypassing it when I put the gauge back in.
Click to expand...

Would grounding the lights get them working because I've changed out every bulb, got a new instrument voltage reg, and changed out the fuses and yet couldnt get the darned lights tooo work......any suggestions?
 
ronald55555 said:
Soldered up some of the pins on the gauge cluster and added some ground wires for the lights today. Also found out from my co worker who is more familiar with mopars that the alternator gauge is actually an ammeter, needless to say I will be bypassing it when I put the gauge back in.
Click to expand...

Would grounding the lights get them working because I've changed out every bulb, got a new instrument voltage reg, and changed out the fuses and yet couldnt get the darned lights tooo work......any suggestions?
 
Did you test it with the cluster screwed into the dash or grounded in some other way? The metal casing of the cluster needs to be grounded for the lights to work.

If you are in fact ground the casing, then the bulbs either arent getting power or arent getting ground, so check both. Turn on your headlights and check if the power traces for the bulbs are getting any voltage, if there is no voltage, follow the trace to see which wire powers the bulb, check for voltage in the wire, if still no voltage, keeping tracing back on that wire until you find the problem. To check if you're getting a good ground, check the continuity between the ground trace for the bulb and a good chassis ground.
 
Havent had time to work on the car for a while, but I did get the strut rods finished. Also machined some new solid tie rods, and got them anodized black.
 

Attachments

  • IMGP3071_filtered.jpg
    23.6 KB · Views: 185
  • IMGP3066.jpg
    96 KB · Views: 188
  • IMGP3062.jpg
    45.5 KB · Views: 199
  • IMGP3057.jpg
    31 KB · Views: 190
Hello! Great work you are doing! A couple comments. I would cut not roll the fenders for the tire clearance. You can't take the dash out without removing the windshield. How much does your lca clevis weigh? it looks like steel..

By the way, I have a "sister thread" to my one on the other forum that I keep updated over here. See the link in my signature
 
Nice work with yours! According to solidworks, it's 0.65lbs. Material is 17-4 stainless. Since I plan on running autox and road courses using slicks, I designed them for infinite life. I was quite conservative on the marin factors and endurance limit calculations, so it is probably bigger and heavier than it needs to be, but better safe than sorry. I got lazy on the K-frame side of the strut rod and ordered the Hotckis piece, which is very weak in comparison.
 
Started reassembling the front suspension over the holiday. Hopefully I can get the car back on the ground soon.
 

Attachments

  • IMGP3083.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 132
  • IMGP3086.jpg
    120.4 KB · Views: 123
  • IMGP3088.jpg
    114.5 KB · Views: 124
  • IMGP3091.jpg
    80.7 KB · Views: 147
  • IMGP3094.jpg
    71.5 KB · Views: 126
  • IMGP3099.jpg
    61.7 KB · Views: 130
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top