70 duster - fuel system resto parts help

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eduardostewart

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hello all,

father and i are restoring his 70 duster. i'm planning out the fuel system parts and i need some opinions/help on the following:

came with 5/16" fuel sender w/o return line. when getting a replacement should i get 5/16 or 3/8? should i get plastic float or brass float? return line or not?

fuel tank grommet - classic lists two options without any real good descriptions and 70 is in both versions

fuel neck filler - our 70 i'm coming to find out didn't have ECS? i believe... so there's not much in the emissions department. the OE neck has a nipple on it to run a tube/hose for vapors right out the trunk. all the necks i'm finding are for cars with ECS and they don't have a nipple on the neck? any help in locating what i need would be appreciated!

Thanks guys!
 

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Mine had the grommet on the right.

This is what a 1970 Duster fuel filler looks like (Non-N95)
 

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May as well get a 3/8" sending unit with a return provision. I don't run a return line on my Duster, but at some point I may upgrade to a fuel pump with a return provision and run a return line. Brass float / plastic float - don't lose any sleep over which one you get. Keep your original metal locking ring and reuse it, aftermarket ones are junk.
 
tnts72 said:
May as well get a 3/8" sending unit with a return provision. I don't run a return line on my Duster, but at some point I may upgrade to a fuel pump with a return provision and run a return line. Brass float / plastic float - don't lose any sleep over which one you get. Keep your original metal locking ring and reuse it, aftermarket ones are junk.
Click to expand...


thanks for your input. sorry to be a pain but could you explain why i would want to got with a return line? or why you would call it an "upgrade?" I get 3/8 because it could more readily supply more fuel, but why a return?
 
If your fuel pump has a port for a return line it will help prevent possible vapor locking issues by circulating gasoline vs pumping the line to the carburetor full and that fuel sitting in the line heating up when your car is sitting in traffic idling or when you are just putting around when it's hot... If you run something hard typically you will keep enough fuel flowing through the single supply line that it won't have time to develop vapor locking issues - as in a racecar etc... That said, I have not ran a return line on any hotrod for 10+ years. Way I look at it, its there if I decide to use it down the road fine, right now its plugged on my setup.
 
thank you, but to clarify- the sender and filter would need "return" options, not the pump, correct?
 
Sending unit and return line would be separate lines. Say 8 an feed line 6 an return line. Filter would be between the pump and the carb. Return line would typically come from the pump and or regulator if you are running one - back to the tank. Here is a little fuel lab explanation - granted this system is for a much higher hp setup than a cruiser, but you will get the idea.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP6Pogm6Ts0"]Fuelab Tech Tips: Return Line Plumbing - YouTube[/ame]
 
ah, i'm used the return line on my 87 w100 that runs from my fuel filter to the tank - i think our disconnect was i'm thinking mechanical and electric?
 
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