70 swinger gas tank install issues

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snowmobiler7c

snowmobiler7c

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Anyone have any tips for installing a new fuel tank? I have spent at least 4 hours today trying to get it in with Vaseline and wd40. I have tried just about everything and can not get the fuel filler neck into the seal at the tank. I have even tried installing the neck into seal while on the ground. Any tips to doing this? The seal will go around the neck no issue but not when it's on the tank.

Also are the tank bolts suppose to be mounted toward the inside or outside of the bracket on the trunk floor?
 
You're probably just not cussing enough.:rofl: But seriously...I just went through this recently. I had to lower the tank, remove driver side shock to give me a bit more wiggle room. Lubed up the tube with silicone spray and removed screws holding the tube to trunk rubber, so it could move around as well. Person on top pushing the tube while I shoved the tank around.
 
What he said. Someone on top pushing it in while you rupture a hemorrhoid pushing up on the tank.
 
Lube it up, put a worm drive radiator clamp on the filler tube and pry it in with a screwdriver.
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If you are by yourself, what I did was put a hydraulic floor jack under the tank with a 2x4 to keep it from denting the tank. I raised it to about 1" or so from the top, or the bottom of the floor truck, in other words 1" away from as far as it would go up. I used a 3 in 1 type oil, called "Tri-Flow" stuff is slicker than a banana peel on cow manure, then pushed the tube in, which yes, was unscrewed from the fender. I have a 70 Duster and had to do it this way. It won't go in with the tank as high as it will go, no way. So lower the tank a little, slick up the tube, "and" the grommet in the tank, and it shouldn't be too hard to push in. You may have to jack the tank up 1/2" at a time, push the neck in further, jack the tank up again, push the neck in further, then take the tank to the top and push the neck in all the way. It also helps if you can twist the tube as your pushing it in. But when it gets to be 1/2" from all the way in you can't twist it anymore and just have to push. But if your by yourself, the hydraulic jack is a back saver and makes this all possible.
 
Thanks guys for all the suggestions. We tried everything again tonight without much luck. Everything is brand new, so I decided to start taking the best measurements I could with my caliper. It's hard to tell exact measurements with 46yr old parts lol. But the filler neck was slightly larger than original and seal was approximately .12 larger where it meets the tank. We decided to use a fine file all the way around the groove that sits in the tank edge several times until we could get the filler neck to start pushing in. Eventually we were able to force the filler neck in the seal. I really didn't want to mess with the seal but I'm confident it was still hard to push in and should seal without any issues. The seal was OER brand I beleive it was from year one, I guess that's the way it goes working with aftermarket parts. Thanks again for the suggestions!
Mark
 
Yes that is typical for aftermarket parts, not quite the same as original. Next time you have an issue with something like this, use a little brake fluid. You can stretch a gnats *** over a telephone pole with a little brake fluid!
 
There are two sizes of filer necks and O rings, they differ by 1/4 inch. Perhaps they sent you an early one and you have a late filler neck. The year break is 70-71 if I remember correctly.
 
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