Oh this looks soooo much better than my past attempt to “gold accent” the plastics! OER paint is pretty magical! The original colored kick panel is at the bottom for comparison.
'71 Dart 6.4L swap progress being made!
- Thread starter GoldSwinger71
- Start date
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Heard from my shop - the Dart is now in the “general” shop for the final plumbing and assembly! I was told that my plan for Mopars in the Park was not unattainable. They’re bringing an extra guy to speed up the process.
Next post should be a video of first firing of the engine in the car.
Next post should be a video of first firing of the engine in the car.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Does this still apply if you have classic auto air with a cable operated valve in the heater line? Seems odd that classic wouldn't have addressed this.
Spoke with my guys. Yeah… first show of the year is definitely not gonna happen. We’re moving forward but guys with bigger wallets than me are on the list.
At this point we had to swap back from the rubber mounts to poly locs due to settling of the material. We had clearance and then we didn’t after the engine was in the car for several months.
Perhaps QA1 could do a new version of the tubular K with spool mounts? Product team? Listening?
I’m working on a side project to figure out placement of the Holley digital dash, I think I’ve got it worked out, I’ll just have to make a trip to the shop and confirm measurements.
I’ll be grabbing the kick panels for paint, might as well do something productive from my side.
Meh. Shouldn’t have gotten my hopes up. Here’s hoping we’re ready by September for the next show I planned on.
Time to work on other summer projects at the house.
At this point we had to swap back from the rubber mounts to poly locs due to settling of the material. We had clearance and then we didn’t after the engine was in the car for several months.
Perhaps QA1 could do a new version of the tubular K with spool mounts? Product team? Listening?
I’m working on a side project to figure out placement of the Holley digital dash, I think I’ve got it worked out, I’ll just have to make a trip to the shop and confirm measurements.
I’ll be grabbing the kick panels for paint, might as well do something productive from my side.
Meh. Shouldn’t have gotten my hopes up. Here’s hoping we’re ready by September for the next show I planned on.
Time to work on other summer projects at the house.
DionR
Well-Known Member
That's discouraging. Didn't sound like it was far from being done, doesn't make sense to push it to the corner rather than finish it and get it out of the shop. But I've never run a shop before so...
I think someone needs to design a "hemi swap" k-member that uses factory torsion bar set up and addresses all the pain points. It seems like it would be easy to come up with a unique mounting system that allows the oil filter on the G3 to remain in the stock position, and allow use of the low mount AC compressor.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Completely agree. And it seems like QA1 is the easy solution since the PS motor mount is already easy to do. Add a set of matching motor mounts to the catalog and be done. Assuming the motor is in the stock location.
The only caveat to that is one pain point is the SRV solenoid on the 6.4 intake or the OEM intercooler manifold on the Hellcat. Only fix for the SRV solenoid AFAIK is to is to move the motor forward or cut the firewall. If the motor is going to be moved, then there is already an easy solution in the Holley mounts and a '73+ k-frame.
On a side note, the 6.4 truck intake has the SRV solenoid on the front of the intake. Not sure one could be easily used on a car with the way the TB is pointed, but might be an option. Not even sure that the back of the intake is shorter on the truck one, might be that even without the solenoid, it won't fit.
Actually they've been working with their engineers - this seems to be an issue with more than just the Gen 3 Hemis - the LS and Coyote engines are also having issues with the flow routing, and specifically modern engines being under a much higher working pressure. One of the test cars blew the hose right off of the fitting (clamp pressure was not enough!)
I'll let you know as I hear more.
I'm having a hard time understanding this. I can't believe Chrysler designed an engine that uses heater hoses as a means to carry coolant to critical engine locations. Take a look at the water pump. The suction side of the pump goes to the center of the impeller, just like all water pumps. Water is then discharged directly into the block. The suction side of the heater hose is in a similar location (red circle on front).
Now to return side. The water comes out the head, returns to a small section of the block, then goes through the timing cover into the top portion of the water pump and thermostat housing. The heater hose connects to the block in this area. (blue circle)
The way I'm seeing it, you can plug both of the heater hose ports, which I'm sure some racers already do, and you won't have a coolant flow problem.
I also think someone commented about the pump blowing the lines off. Pressure in an automotive cooling system comes from the expansion of the coolant as the temperature increases, not from the water pump. If they are blowing lines, their hose clamp must have been loose, or they were using a radiator cap with too high of a pressure rating.
I could be completely wrong here, but someone needs to explain the science behind Chrysler using heater hoses for a main path of coolant.
Ha! Steps forward steps backward, and then steps forward again...
The rubber mounts we placed compressed with the engine weight and caused them to sink slightly. This brought back a clearance issue with the headers and torsion bars on both sides (previously the Passenger side fit with no clearancing.)
We had to add a 1/8" aluminum shim on both sides to raise the engine height. After doing the measurements, there's no way the poly-loc mounts would fit without more modifications, so this is the path we're going. This has also identified a fun situation where it will require header removal to replace the engine mounts if that's needed. I think I'll add a torque strap to save on the mounts.
After doing some research, I found that I needed to get some new linkage for the column shifter to fit the 727, having previously had the 904 in the car. That's been ordered and should be arriving next week. I'm hoping that first fire in the car will happen next week as well. I think I'll have missed the Mopars in the Park deadline by 2-3 weeks all said and done, but there's plenty of weather left to cruise.
Just being patient and letting things happen as they are. No need to stress about it. The doc told me my blood pressure is now under control with meds, so I'd like to keep it that way!
The rubber mounts we placed compressed with the engine weight and caused them to sink slightly. This brought back a clearance issue with the headers and torsion bars on both sides (previously the Passenger side fit with no clearancing.)
We had to add a 1/8" aluminum shim on both sides to raise the engine height. After doing the measurements, there's no way the poly-loc mounts would fit without more modifications, so this is the path we're going. This has also identified a fun situation where it will require header removal to replace the engine mounts if that's needed. I think I'll add a torque strap to save on the mounts.
After doing some research, I found that I needed to get some new linkage for the column shifter to fit the 727, having previously had the 904 in the car. That's been ordered and should be arriving next week. I'm hoping that first fire in the car will happen next week as well. I think I'll have missed the Mopars in the Park deadline by 2-3 weeks all said and done, but there's plenty of weather left to cruise.
Just being patient and letting things happen as they are. No need to stress about it. The doc told me my blood pressure is now under control with meds, so I'd like to keep it that way!
She barks!!! Now I want a set of cutouts to run it open.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I was looking at how the OEM setup gets coolant into the system since the expansion tank isn't tied directly into the radiator or radiator hoses. Come to find out, there are 2 lines that each tee into a heater line. Could this somehow be related? Maybe the system is design in some way to draw from the expansion tank and thus blocking off one of the heater lines causes a circulation issue?
Not saying it does, sure seems like you could block both hoses like Joe said and it would work fine. Just tossing it out there.
Details details!
Car is in for alignment and frame rail installation as of noon today!
I decided to go with an off the shelf TTI exhaust system to speed up the process, as the exhaust guy has limited availability to build custom.
So best case scenario, it’ll be back in my driveway in a few weeks for the interior install.
Keeping my patient mantra going…
I decided to go with an off the shelf TTI exhaust system to speed up the process, as the exhaust guy has limited availability to build custom.
So best case scenario, it’ll be back in my driveway in a few weeks for the interior install.
Keeping my patient mantra going…
I haven’t kept a full accounting of what I’ve spent (or I think my wife would have divorced me) but at the moment I’m about $40k into the project for what I’ve paid the shops for wiring, motor, transmission, rear axle, engine computer, install labor, suspension install / alignment, and assorted pieces. That doesn’t even take into account parts I purchased separately and included when I dropped off the car (probably $10k in miscellaneous bits).
And I have a final check to write for the finish work which is completing this week.
So all in, between purchase price of the car and the Hemi swap and upgrades needed to accommodate the power, I’ll be looking at $65-70k.
In case anyone was wondering what a swap costs (if you’re leaving work up to a shop.)
Just one more week, I’ve been told!
And I have a final check to write for the finish work which is completing this week.
So all in, between purchase price of the car and the Hemi swap and upgrades needed to accommodate the power, I’ll be looking at $65-70k.
In case anyone was wondering what a swap costs (if you’re leaving work up to a shop.)
Just one more week, I’ve been told!
Oh and I bought a bunch of stuff pre COVID so I saved money before prices went stupid. Makes me wonder how anyone can afford to do these!
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Sure wish I had seen this thread earlier, I might could have saved you a bit of cash. I stuffed a 6.1 into my Demon. I have a build thread on it here at FABO. Send me a PM if you want anytime as the dash aspect gave me fits. Keep in mind I did it all myself so likely not nearly as skilled as a shop that does it for a living. i used a Dakota Dash in mine. I can send you pictures of anything you need on how I resolved whatever. Again I did it at home with limited skills and resources so some of my solutions were crude! (Think farmer) Hah! Great build and congrats on getting it running. You have a beautiful car for sure, well done.
DARTGAME
SuPeRcHaRgEd
When’s the burn out video!?! Awesome!
Today’s the day!!! I’m heading over this morning to get the car loaded up on a flatbed for delivery back home!
remaining on the list - finish removing the last bits of the carpet pad, install dynamat , cut and install the new carpet, install seats and arm rests, adjust the rear window angle so the door seals properly, maybe rebuild the window roller hardware too, deep clean, DRIVE.
Looks like I’ll sneak in to be ready for the car show in Telluride, Colorado in a few weeks.
I’ll be trailering the car since I won’t have time to get my break in miles / shake down miles before heading out. It’s just the smart thing to do.
Pictures incoming today.
remaining on the list - finish removing the last bits of the carpet pad, install dynamat , cut and install the new carpet, install seats and arm rests, adjust the rear window angle so the door seals properly, maybe rebuild the window roller hardware too, deep clean, DRIVE.
Looks like I’ll sneak in to be ready for the car show in Telluride, Colorado in a few weeks.
I’ll be trailering the car since I won’t have time to get my break in miles / shake down miles before heading out. It’s just the smart thing to do.
Pictures incoming today.
Interior install in progress!
Tomorrow I get the front bench seat in and go for the inaugural cruise!
Installing carpet is nerve wracking, but that gold makes the interior POP!
And the bench is in! It was a bit too late to take her for a drive but that’s good for tomorrow.
I had to chase the threads on every single stud for the bench. That tap and die set paid for itself!
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
Have you took her for a spin yet?
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