72 Demon slanty-to-340 Resto

-
That 4x4 ram truck at the top of the list just got there jan 8th this year. Bet the engines still in it.

Yup. Too bad it doesn't have a VIN listed to figure out what it's got. Although, it looks modified enough that it's a who knows anyway.

Thats slick. I need to use that.

Yeah it is! If you set up an account (it's free) you can save your searches and set email preferences too. I get emails when certain year vehicles hit the yards. Used to be pretty helpful, nowadays very few A or even FMJ cars hit the yards anymore though.
 
You can search all the pickNpull's with row52.com. Just enter your zip code, how far you're willing to travel, and search for stuff that would have an LA 360 in it. That's how I pulled up that truck. Super easy, you never have to talk to the attendants. They can't really tell you if parts have been pulled off a vehicle anyway, just that one's there or not.
That might just help in the future for other stuff as well, and at least they can tell me WHETHER THE CAR IS THERE OR NOT and WARN ME IF IT'S ABOUT TO GO TO THE CRUSHER. Got pissed at one yard, asked if they had any early-90s jeep cherokees and was told they had 2, I go into the town and get to the yard then they tell me "oh sorry our last 2 jeeps just went to the crusher"..............ARE YOU F^@%ING KIDDING ME!?!? I JUST ASKED YOU GUYS ABOUT THEM 2 HOURS AGO!!!!!

That's why I'm reluctant to go to junkyards around here, they keep playing games on MY TIME. Takes me 45 minutes and $7 in gas just to drive to most of these yards, that's why I call ahead first, but they still keep dicking around on my dime.
 
mopar made a 360HP L code in 1974 with the 340 cam and valvesprings and double roller timing set and windage tray and dual exhaust. it made 5 more horse and 25 more torque than the 1973 340.
1974 Dart Sport (3).jpg
 
mopar made a 360HP L code in 1974 with the 340 cam and valvesprings and double roller timing set and windage tray and dual exhaust. it made 5 more horse and 25 more torque than the 1973 340.View attachment 1715134376
Well if I come across one of those L codes I'll be sure to give it a look! To be fair, I believe 73 was when they made a major emissions change to the 340
 
Welp, if I ever do have to get a Magnum 5.9 block, at least I have a decent cylinder head option JEGS Performance Products 514212: Magnum Cylinder Head Assembly 1992-2001 5.2L Magnum | JEGS

They have the same Magnum valves and porting profile, but fit on both Magnum AND LA blocks (may require a few other parts with the LA blocks), plus they accept LA-fit intakes. If I went this route then I could stay with most of my other parts picked out, although I'd have to rethink my cam options, since the valves max out at 0.51" lift.
 
Cool Demon, I live pretty close by and have sold my 340 even though it’s in my garage still. But I’ll ask around to a few guys around town might have one. Dustin
 
Cool Demon, I live pretty close by and have sold my 340 even though it’s in my garage still. But I’ll ask around to a few guys around town might have one. Dustin
I actually have my eyes on one up near Portland, $900 for block w/ forged crank + mains. Could use some cleaning but still good for the price if I wasn't broke at the moment. Too bad I'm at the age where ya stop getting birthday presents, mine's right around the corner! lol
 
If money is an object a good ol 360 is much cheaper than a 340 and can be built to whatever you wish and for less cash.
Lemme try to catch ya up to speed: I'm gunnin for a name brand 340, but the ol farts are tryin'a talk me down to the bargain brand 360. I told em I'd consider if the name brand ain't on sale
 
Lemme try to catch ya up to speed: I'm gunnin for a name brand 340, but the ol farts are tryin'a talk me down to the bargain brand 360. I told em I'd consider if the name brand ain't on sale

The great old 360 is not a bargain brand it is a sensible brand and the famous 340 is greatly overpriced for what it is.
 
The great old 360 is not a bargain brand it is a sensible brand and the famous 340 is greatly overpriced for what it is.
Regardless, I'll consider it if I can't nail down one of these reasonably priced 340 cores around here. Gotta at least try for it
 
OK so this project will start moving forward pretty soon. I just picked up some part time work, so money will start flooding in eventually. I got loaned an engine stand and cherrypicker, so sometime in the coming weeks I can pull the slant and 904 (whenever one of my friends has a free day to help). My project checklist right now is a bit in disarray, but I figure my first steps are partial disassembly and rust repair, then I can get to a point where I'm ready to mock up (I have my 318 ready for mockup currently). Eventually I can do parts like subframe connectors and suspension parts, I know powertrain is a major focus but something tells me chassis and suspension are a good starting point. In the meantime I'm lookin out for a V8 K-frame, what's a good price to get one for? The only ones I'm seeing are for a slant and a V8 frame up in WA for $350, but at that price I could just toss in a couple hundred more and get a QA1 frame and cut weight off the front end.

P.S. @72bluNblu I found those 1.03" torsion bars you mentioned 1.03" Torsion Bar - A Body
 
Last edited:
360 are a pain to get settled in the cradle right the Cuda I sold had a 360 in it and ended using truck mounts upside down to get it sitting square in it. I know you are budget minded but I do have a 71 340 up for sale and yes I am an ole fart but I have it listed for 6 k I will drop it to 5 k but it is drop in ready every thing has been done to it 40 over Clevite 10.5 to 1 moderate cam x heads 10-10 crank Melling oil pump electronic distributor Eddlbrock 340 torker 4 bbl manifold it would be a great fit I run a 340 in my Demon and I love it I just sold my other 340 to guy and installed it for him it went in a 74 scamp I only charged him a grand to do it I also repaired his ac to work he was one happy camper. If you want pm me and Ill give you my parts guys # he has all the parts you need at a reasonable price he is strictly mopar and has a pile of parts I mean a pile a-b=e the whole shebang also I used those laser cut frame connectors as long as your welding skills are up they fit perfect Ray
 
350$ for a V8 k frame is expensive. I would just do the Shumaker swap kit or similar company. I just got those same PST bars for my 65 they look nice haven’t installed them yet. I could help you pull the engine if needed I’m not very far away. Dustin
 
350$ for a V8 k frame is expensive. I would just do the Shumaker swap kit or similar company. I just got those same PST bars for my 65 they look nice haven’t installed them yet. I could help you pull the engine if needed I’m not very far away. Dustin
Looking at that listing again turns out it's not even the right k frame, it's for an E body. I'll look again and see if there's at least one A-body k frame in the state (freakin superlibs moving here must be forming some kinda conspiracy to phase out any car that isn't a compact econobox). In the meantime I have a friend onboard, I just have to find out when our days off line up, he drive the bus for the school district and I'm working night shift so it's tricky to line up. I can get everything disco'd, just need his help tipping the trans when yanking the whole thing out.
 
Update: still on the search for a 340, but I ALMOST had one nailed down. Found one from a guy up in Portland, worked out a deal to have him magnaflux it first, but before that could happen he backs out. Something about originally planning to sell it to another buyer, but he postponed the deal and relisted it only for buyer#1 to call him back up about it during our negotiations (and he decided buyer#1 should get first dibs even though he put his deal on hold). The search continues I guess
 
Major update time!

Look what I finally got ahold of
20180722_133500.jpg
20180722_133516.jpg

Got this one from a guy up outta Rainier who had his own 340 Demon project goin, but since he found a complete 340 he sold me this block
 
Hoping to get in some Q&A on this!

With the block, I also got a timing cover and steel crank. Now, the crank is RUSTY. I wasn't super concerned about it to begin with, but I'm wondering whether it's even worth saving
20180725_061505.jpg
20180725_061530.jpg
 
Such a shame. A bit of machine oil on it before storage would have prevented that. This being said, it all depends on a bunch of things. You can cut the crank .020" if need be. They do make .020" under bearings. I have been told though that goes past its surface hardening.

1. Are the journals already cut .010" under for rods, mains, both, or is it still standard size ?

2. Has it had a mishap like a spun bearing ?

3. If is standard size, and its glass beaded to knock off the rust, grind, and polish, will it clean up at .010" ?

4. Is it straight or bent ?

5. Is crank thrust bearing surface worn ?

6. Get it magnafluxed to look for subsurface defects.

Not sure what a glass beading, shot peening, magnafluxing, straightness check, grinding, oil hole radiusing, and polish will run you, or if a new crank forging would end up cheaper or same cost. If everything above checks out, its probably useable, but you would have to compare costs with a new one to determine if its feasable or not.

Hope this helps
Matt
 
Such a shame. A bit of machine oil on it before storage would have prevented that. This being said, it all depends on a bunch of things. You can cut the crank .020" if need be. They do make .020" under bearings. I have been told though that goes past its surface hardening.

1. Are the journals already cut .010" under for rods, mains, both, or is it still standard size ?

2. Has it had a mishap like a spun bearing ?

3. If is standard size, and its glass beaded to knock off the rust, grind, and polish, will it clean up at .010" ?

4. Is it straight or bent ?

5. Is crank thrust bearing surface worn ?

6. Get it magnafluxed to look for subsurface defects.

Not sure what a glass beading, shot peening, magnafluxing, straightness check, grinding, oil hole radiusing, and polish will run you, or if a new crank forging would end up cheaper or same cost. If everything above checks out, its probably useable, but you would have to compare costs with a new one to determine if its feasable or not.

Hope this helps
Matt
According to the guy it's never had any mishaps and never been machined, it was in his brother-in-law's 72 challenger and when the car rusted out he pulled the block, took it apart and stored it away for the future. Only crime is he didn't think to coat everything before he stored it.

For what I paid it was a fair price for a 340 block alone, he just threw in the timing cover and crank since he didn't need em. I wasn't super deadset on the crank anyways, I just figured I'd get a concensus on whether it can be saved or whether it's worth just getting a new crank
 
What is the stroke on a 340 vs 318 crank. I know all small block rods are the same length. arent they both a 3.31 rod ratio? If so the only advantage the 340 has over the 318 is bigger bore size and a forged crank
 
What is the stroke on a 340 vs 318 crank. I know all small block rods are the same length. arent they both a 3.31 rod ratio? If so the only advantage the 340 has over the 318 is bigger bore size and a forged crank

Not sure about rod ratio, but I'm guessing they have the same stroke. This replacement crank on jegs suggests so Mopar Performance P5007253: Forged Crankshaft 318/340 "LA" & 5.2L Magnum Main Journal Size | JEGS

The cranks have the same stroke, the rod ratio is the same. The difference in displacement between the 318’s and 340’s was entirely on the bore diameter. And 318’s came with forged cranks for awhile too depending on the application.
 
-
Back
Top