727 Control Linkage Shaft Seal replacement

[JR]

Is there a way to get the old seal out without dropping the pan and valve body? I replaced the smaller seal that is in the kickdown rod but my leak is the bigger seal that is counter sunk in the case.
The tranny is in the car so I am working with limited space and I really really really dont wanna drop the pan and valve body.

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/showthread.php?t=42737

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/showthread.php?p=139600&highlight=selector+shaft+leak

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=PIO&mfrpartnumber=759037&parttype=931&ptset=A

 

[69signetv8]

Quick fix (maybe)..
I had a leak in the same location, :wack: but never had any time to drop the trains. I'm still not sure if it has to be dropped for sure. Anyways, I removed all the rods/levers etc and only had about 4 - 5" to work with. I got a 3/4 or 7/8 socket and put over the top so it was just slighty inside of the seal area. I lightly taped down on the socket in the 2" area I had left to work in. After this the seal didn't leak for about a year. You can maybe feel with your finger if the sector area has lifted up a bit. :salut:

 

[69signetv8]

Quick fix (maybe)..
I had a leak in the same location, :wack: but never had any time to drop the trains. I'm still not sure if it has to be dropped for sure. Anyways, I removed all the rods/levers etc and only had about 4 - 5" to work with. I got a 3/4 or 7/8 socket and put over the top so it was just slighty inside of the seal area. I lightly taped down on the socket in the 2" area I had left to work in. After this the seal didn't leak for about a year. You can maybe feel with your finger if the sector area has lifted up a bit. :salut:

Another Site with info

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Transmission/Leaks.htm

 

[Ace]

I've done it before but it is not easy, done mostly by feel. You can yank the old one any way you want, just make sure not to scratch the shaft. Then use an appropriately sized socket like signet mentions to tap the new one in. Depending on the body type, you'll have zero to little room to engage it with the side face of a hammer. Make sure to feel around the edges as you go to ensure it goes straight in. It is pretty easy to ruin the seal this way if you are not careful. I honestly find it easier to drop the pan and valve body after doing it this way a couple times and ruining more than one seal.

 

[JR]

I went to the local Shmucks auto parts and after explainning to 3 differant 17-20 yearolds (including the manager) what the part was and showing them how to look up a part number ...."In that big dusty thing with all the paper in it on the shelf that is right under your computer", I ordered 3 of the seals at 89 cents each.
So this weekend I will do the swap and see if I can get it on the first try.

 

[fishy68]

Man dude is this the trans that was just rebuilt? They should have replaced that!!! Got me wondering???? The proper way is to drop the pan and valve body to replace it. You can Mickey mouse around for 2-3 hours with a pick and awl digging out the old one taking a chance of scratching up the fragile aluminum case or valve body shaft causing a PERMANENT leak. (Or jamming the awl into your hand OUCH!!) Even in a little Scamp I can drop the pan and valve body and change the seal and have it back together in about an hour and a half. A Torqueflite is the easiest trans. to work on bar none. Do it right and you will be miles ahead brother.