Picked up a new 727 that was bought from the dealership and has sat for three years - I'm putting it behind a strong 340 w/3000 stall convertor. What modifications/improvements would be recommended besides shift kit ? Will see the track 2-3 times a year max.
727 modifications .....
- Thread starter rebeldart
- Start date
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fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
The 727 is plenty strong to hold up to most any 340. The only thing I'd do is put in a Trans-go TF-2 kit and a deep pan and trans. cooler.
But....while your in there you could look and see what front band lever it has. If it's the 2.9 lever (will be stamped on the side of it) replace it for the 3.8 or 4.2 lever. That will firm up the 2nd gear shift also. If you really want a super firm 2nd shift block the accumulator.
But....while your in there you could look and see what front band lever it has. If it's the 2.9 lever (will be stamped on the side of it) replace it for the 3.8 or 4.2 lever. That will firm up the 2nd gear shift also. If you really want a super firm 2nd shift block the accumulator.
Always seem to have issues with servo pistons, esp. the low-reverse. This happens do to wear over the years and higher than stock line presure. The pistons bind and crack and or tear seals.
There is a lot you can do to a 904 and a 727, depends on budget etc. If the trans is completely apart go with 12 springs in the front drum, a 4.2 intermediate shift lever, a HD 2nd band strut, and a billet low reverse piston kit. And at least a bolt in sprag.
I also like the koleen clutchs and new race plates, and kevlar solid bands, NOT flex bands,
There is a lot more, but this should be more than enough for you, unless you want a 2k+ trans. You can get into drum piston mods, bigger planetaries, front pump mods etc.
Other than than make sure all the seals , bushings, thrust washers, and seal rings are new and tha the clearances are in specs. A sloppy trans will still probably hold toghter for you, but the shifts will be less than perfect,
good luck! 8)
There is a lot you can do to a 904 and a 727, depends on budget etc. If the trans is completely apart go with 12 springs in the front drum, a 4.2 intermediate shift lever, a HD 2nd band strut, and a billet low reverse piston kit. And at least a bolt in sprag.
I also like the koleen clutchs and new race plates, and kevlar solid bands, NOT flex bands,
There is a lot more, but this should be more than enough for you, unless you want a 2k+ trans. You can get into drum piston mods, bigger planetaries, front pump mods etc.
Other than than make sure all the seals , bushings, thrust washers, and seal rings are new and tha the clearances are in specs. A sloppy trans will still probably hold toghter for you, but the shifts will be less than perfect,
good luck! 8)
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
As long as it was bagged up so no dust or dirt got in it should be ok but Dave is right about the clearances. Even in a brand new from the dealer transmission they can be sloppy. If you want a very long lasting and great performing transmission go through it and tighten up all the tolerances as needed. Don't go by the factory specs either. For instance they say the output gear train end play is acceptable from .010-.060 That's a huge difference and if it has .060 slop that means the gears will be slapping back and forth beating each other up. I always shoot for .010-.015 Same goes for the clutch packs. If you do a search on Amazon.com or E-bay you can find a excellent book written by Carl Munroe on Torqueflite transmissions and he gives what specs should be used for a performance transmission along with a bunch of other valuable info. It only costs about $15 and it's well worth the money.
Even in stock form the torqueflite is a very durable transmission even if the tolerances are loose. It'll just last much longer and perform some better if you tighten things up.
I have also heard people talk about how the reverse piston can break but in my 25 yrs. of rebuilding one I haven't ran across one that happened. Maybe I've just been lucky. I will tell you that if you decide to put in an aftermarket piston go with a good brand name. I bought one (a cheaper one) and it was made about .007 smaller than the stock one so it was terribly sloppy and I couldn't use it.
Even in stock form the torqueflite is a very durable transmission even if the tolerances are loose. It'll just last much longer and perform some better if you tighten things up.
I have also heard people talk about how the reverse piston can break but in my 25 yrs. of rebuilding one I haven't ran across one that happened. Maybe I've just been lucky. I will tell you that if you decide to put in an aftermarket piston go with a good brand name. I bought one (a cheaper one) and it was made about .007 smaller than the stock one so it was terribly sloppy and I couldn't use it.
Yep you should be OK, sorry I missed it was a new trans... But still they tend to be on the loose side, that said you should be OK?
The pistons for low-reverse break with high line pressure and or a worn case and or piston. since you have all new parts and only are using a TF2 you should be OK?
But if it wa me I bet you have the crappy flex band and less than 12 springs in the front drum too.
I would make those minimum changes while it is out. Get a 4.2 lever, a better band apply strut, block off the accumalator, and go with 12 springs in the drum if you have the tools to take it apart? It will allow for a quicker apply and release for 2-3 and 3-2 shifting.
Enjoy...
The pistons for low-reverse break with high line pressure and or a worn case and or piston. since you have all new parts and only are using a TF2 you should be OK?
But if it wa me I bet you have the crappy flex band and less than 12 springs in the front drum too.
I would make those minimum changes while it is out. Get a 4.2 lever, a better band apply strut, block off the accumalator, and go with 12 springs in the drum if you have the tools to take it apart? It will allow for a quicker apply and release for 2-3 and 3-2 shifting.
Enjoy...
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