727 puking out the front seal

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sixty9xtc

sixty9xtc

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I have a 360 backed up by a 727 with a 2800 stall in it. I have had two issues with the transmission.

First when it shifts from 2nd to drive it acts like it shifts to neutral for a second then goes into drive.

Then second problem just started happening. I put about 80 miles on the car since i completed it and all was good except the shifting issue then the other day when I had it idling it started dripping out the front pump seal. When I shut the car off it started pouring out the front. Now anytime I start it it just pours out the front. I have a locking dipstick in it and I was wondering if the transmission needs to ventilate or if pressure was building up in the transmission and blew out the front seal.

The transmission was rebuilt quite a few years ago had about 6000 miles put on then pulled out of the car and sat in the garage. I pulled it apart and put all new seals in it before i put it in the car. The band clearances looked good at the time.

I am in the middle of pulling the trans out now and ordered a B&M overhaul kit for it. I just don't want to put it all back together and blow out another front seal.
 
The front pump has a vent built into it and that's all you need, as long as it's clear and venting properly. A plugged transmission cooler can also cause it to blow the front seal. Check/clean or replace the cooler and lines as necessary. It's possible that if it sat uncovered (or not sufficiently covered) dirt/garbage got into it plugging up something.

For the shifting problem, that is known as flare up. Do you have the throttle pressure (kickdown) linkage hooked up and adjusted properly? If not that'll cause flare up. The action of applying the front band is what gives you 2nd gear. If the throttle linkage is ok it's a problem with the application of the front band. Either not adjusted right, low fluid level, or a servo or valve body problem. Make sure and check and adjust all clearances as necessary. Proper clearances are key to a trans. operating right. Also when rebuilding it make sure and air test the clutch packs and band servo's as your going to make sure everything will work right when it's all assembled. If you need a picture from the factory service manual for where to apply air let me know and I'll post it.

Also consider a Trans-go shift kit while your overhauling it. Trans-go kits are excellent kits that address the deficiency's torqueflites have. Their customizable so you can make it shift just a little firmer or extra firm. Whatever you like.
 
So I am running a lokar kickdown linkage. Where do I want my kickdown lever travel to be. When it is full throttle do I want the linkage all the way back. and how far forward do you want the lever to be when there is no trottle being applied. What would you suggest as a good starting point for the kickdown then start fine tuning.
 
I always start where it pulls the trans. lever all the way back at full throttle. At light throttle that should allow the lever to return forward enough that it'll be fine but sometimes they will wind up too much under light throttle so you have to back it off some. If you do have to back it off do it 1 turn at a time then test drive it. 1 turn can make a pretty significant difference sometimes.
 
Well its been a while since I updated this but I pulled the tranny and found the front pump bushing had walked out and taken out the front pump seal. Well when I tore down the transmission and found the kickdown servo sealing ring had broken and scored the case. So I got a new case and rebuilt the transmission. Put everything back together and she's been running like a champ for the past couple of months.
 
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