727 Shift question?

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ironracer1

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I have a 727 w/a 2200 MP stall running into 4:10 gears. Trans was rebuilt (less than 50 miles) by a local guy . Non mopar guy, but an old school racer, on the bench rebuild, installed an old, NIB, B and M 3 stage kit ,set to street-strip (the mid set between towing and full out) The tranny was done before (had about 700 miles on it) but sat for over 12 years. I wanted it gone through because the bands will soak fluid, ect. Tranny looked real good, he put in a Kevlar front band. Running a Lokar kickdown. My question is; the car runs, shifts, drives, and is whoop *** , IF, I leave it in Drive. If I try to shift manually (factory floor shifter, 1966), she hangs up (or acts like its falling flat) when I try to jam 2nd. I know a manual valve body will probably fix this, but what gives? I have had 318 column shift cars (and trucks! ) act better when putting on the full effect. Motors a built 340 , sorry for the long post, just trying to give all the info and wondering.....??????????
 
Subscribed I am interested in what it could be myself
 
..........The problem with that kit is that the rear band is releasing too slow........


































.......The rear band is releasing too slow when ur manually shifting it.........it works great in drive because u r not using the rear band ..........heres the fix........take the rear servo out and dissamble it, add a few washers to take up the slack, reassamble[the snap ring is a b#%^h]...........adjust rear band to 2 turns..........did he remove the front servo and leve out 1 of the springs, if so reinstall it...adjust front band to 2 1/4 turns...................kim..........
 
Do you have a pic of that? I understand how an A 833 works an Auto trans leaves me in the dark...........Like I said the guy weren't no Mopar Man I am not sure what springs he left out, but there was a few left in my pack, i read the instructions the paper was kind of a mystery?
 
its one of the old style BM kits i don't have a scanner and its not a 3 stage kit its a B n M trans Pak PN # 10228 Thanks Kimmer! IDK what he did though......
 
Try putting it in drive while pulling out. Then pull it it back to low and shift. You will see a difference. Low gear in drive is a different apply then 1st gear on the selector. The band will not be used. Just a thought, see what happens.
 
I had the exact same problem when I had my 727 rebuilt. I put a kit in it years ago and the trans probably had 100,000 mles on it when I put the B&M kit in it, so everything was very loose. When I had it rebuilt last year mine did the same thing yours is doing. Here is a link to the thread I started and all the responses and what I ended up doing to fix it. Hope this helps:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=169957
 
You need to take the servo apart and stack washers on the shaft to stop the travel between the two peices.
You can put it back together without the spring after the washers are there.
Basically, you are just making it a solid unit.

The washers go in here on the shaft, and a tiny bit of movement is ok once the snap ring is back on holding it together.

What this does is release the band a lot faster instead of the spring backing it off slowly.
 

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Once you get the servo out, there is a small snap ring on the back side. Remove it and it will come apart.
 
Kim and Trailbest are exactly right. When you pull the shifter down in low it applies the rear band (it doesn't apply in drive) and there's 2 springs in the rear servo that opperate that rear band and they counteract each other when releasing slowing the release (I'm not sure why Ma Mopar did it that way unless it made it shift softer to make the Ralph Nader wusses happy). Anyway, all you need to do is stack some washers like the other guys said and it'll eliminate the 1-2 shift overlap.

Incidentally that's what's actually happening. When you manually shift it from 1st to 2nd it's staying in 1st gear for a second or 2 while it's already in 2nd gear. I'm sure you know being in 2 gears at once doesn't work good and is extrmely detrimental to a trans.

BTW: I'm surprised the B&M stage 3 kit didn't have a spacer to put in the servo to keep that from happening. I wonder if the rebuilder missed that step?

Also to get the servo out you need to

1. drop the pan

2. back the rear band adjuster screw all the way out

3. use a long thin blade screwdriver to reach up in there to compress the band so you can remove the band strut (thin 1"x1-1/4" steel spacer) which will allow the servo actuator to drop out of the way

4. Then compress the servo a little and remove the outer snap ring that holds it in

5. Remove and disassemble it and do the mod shown above which entails stacking the washers to basically make the servo solid and eliminate the action of the inner spring.
 
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