727 shift shaft seal replacement

[68 Coronet RT]

The shift shaft seal on my 68 GTS is leaking pretty good, I have a new seal and I'm wondering if there are any tricks to getting the old seal out without pulling the tranny and damaging the shaft trying to get the old seal out.

 

[1994redram]

I used a small flathead and carefully pried it out. Used a socket and C clamp to press the new one in. The kickdown seal is easy. Remove the C clip remove the washer, dig the seal out with a pick, slide the new one in, replace the washer and clip and it's done! Just don't let the kickdown shaft fall down into the pan.

 

[70Duster440]

...and there are dedicated tools to do the job (that you may only use once in your life). I have one in my tool box somewhere.

Supposed to be able to do it without even removing the valve body.

Example: Chrysler Shift Lever Seal Remover & Installer 1960-2002 LIKE T-1031-A / KD-2392 | eBay

 

[TrailBeast]

I have a 3 inch section of allthread with washers and nuts to pull the new seal in.
Of course the pan and valve body have to be off to use it.

One of the best is the seal puller 70Duster440 posted. because it can be pulled by only removing the shift and KD levers.
One big drawback to that style is having to drop the rear of the trans down so far to be able to tap the new seal in.

That is why I would just as soon pull the pan and valve body and pull the new seal in from the bottom.
Once the valve body is out of the car it's a lot easier to do the KD shaft seal.

 

[68 Coronet RT]

I have a 3 inch section of allthread with washers and nuts to pull the new seal in.
Of course the pan and valve body have to be off to use it.

One of the best is the seal puller 70Duster440 posted. because it can be pulled by only removing the shift and KD levers.
One big drawback to that style is having to drop the rear of the trans down so far to be able to tap the new seal in.

That is why I would just as soon pull the pan and valve body and pull the new seal in from the bottom.
Once the valve body is out of the car it's a lot easier to do the KD shaft seal.

I watched a YouTube video with a guy using the same removal tool that 70Duster440 mentioned, and after 45 minutes with this tool the guy gave up and just used a screwdriver and pried it out. Watching the video he couldn't get the removal tool down inside the seal to pull it. I made myself a small hook with a handle and the hook is thin enough to get between the seal and shaft so we will see what happens. I don't know how mechanically inclined the guy in the video was so I really can't judge how good the removal tool is, but for $30 bucks I will try my hook first.

 

[TrailBeast]

I watched a YouTube video with a guy using the same removal tool that 70Duster440 mentioned, and after 45 minutes with this tool the guy gave up and just used a screwdriver and pried it out. Watching the video he couldn't get the removal tool down inside the seal to pull it. I made myself a small hook with a handle and the hook is thin enough to get between the seal and shaft so we will see what happens. I don't know how mechanically inclined the guy in the video was so I really can't judge how good the removal tool is, but for $30 bucks I will try my hook first.

The trick with the tool is a decent amount of down pressure while you turn it in, which is also kind of a PIA when doing them in the car.
Tapping the removal tool with a hammer while turning it works ok, but here again in the car it's hard to get that much room above the tool.

That's why I just pop it out with a screwdriver and pull the new one in from the bottom with the VB out.
Trying to get around taking the VB out is more trouble than it's worth to me.
I have probably done 50 of them, and have a background in transmissions, so it's no big deal to me.
A drain for the pan and a reusable metal impregnated pan gasket makes the job a little less of a PIA also.

 

[68 Coronet RT]

The trick with the tool is a decent amount of down pressure while you turn it in, which is also kind of a PIA when doing them in the car.
Tapping the removal tool with a hammer while turning it works ok, but here again in the car it's hard to get that much room above the tool.

That's why I just pop it out with a screwdriver and pull the new one in from the bottom with the VB out.
Trying to get around taking the VB out is more trouble than it's worth to me.
I have probably done 50 of them, and have a background in transmissions, so it's no big deal to me.
A drain for the pan and a reusable metal impregnated pan gasket makes the job a little less of a PIA also.

I hear you on not much room, I already replaced the pan with one with a drain plug as I though it was the pan leaking but after a process of elimination it is the shift shaft seal. I think this little hook I have will work, it's a tool I have from when I was racing snowmobiles to pull the springs off that held the pipes to the cylinder heads. it's made out of a harden steel so I don't think I will have a issue with the hook breaking off. Going to drain down the tranny fluid a bit so it won't be such a mess after I pull the seal. Time will tell, next job will be the tail extension seal

 

[TrailBeast]

I hear you on not much room, I already replaced the pan with one with a drain plug as I though it was the pan leaking but after a process of elimination it is the shift shaft seal. I think this little hook I have will work, it's a tool I have from when I was racing snowmobiles to pull the springs off that held the pipes to the cylinder heads. it's made out of a harden steel so I don't think I will have a issue with the hook breaking off. Going to drain down the tranny fluid a bit so it won't be such a mess after I pull the seal. Time will tell, next job will be the tail extension seal

They are in there pretty good.

 

[68 Coronet RT]

They are in there pretty good.

Finally got the car up on jack stands, replacing the seal is not going to happen unless I do one of two things. 1) drop my exhaust system as I have 2 1/2 inch pipes and there is zero room to get in there or drop the whole tranny.

 

[TrailBeast]

Finally got the car up on jack stands, replacing the seal is not going to happen unless I do one of two things. 1) drop my exhaust system as I have 2 1/2 inch pipes and there is zero room to get in there or drop the whole tranny.

Dropping the pan and valve body is an option.

 

[68 Coronet RT]

Dropping the pan and valve body is an option.

Yes you are right, never had a VB out. This is my first automatic all my other Mopars had 4 speeds. Anything special you have to do to drop the VB ?

 

[70Duster440]

Anything special you have to do to drop the VB ?

Other than having lots of rags handy to wipe your arms off? Not really. Loosen and remove the two levers on top. Remove the three bolts at the front and rear of the VB and 4 around the accumulator (10 total). Lower the VB. Unless someone has removed it already, there'll be a large spring between the VB and accumulator piston.The trickiest thing is pulling it forward to free the park rod from the pawl at the rear of the trans and pushing it back in later. You might be able to just lower and rotate the VB out of the way while you remove the seal.

 

[68cuda408]

I have the in car remover and installer set, had it for years, works great without pulling the VB, (if you want I can lend it out, pm me). My experience has shown worn/wobbly shafts can't be fixed with a new seal so I would check that first.I also have a 727 in car tail shaft bushing remover and installer set if needed.

 

[TrailBeast]

Yes you are right, never had a VB out. This is my first automatic all my other Mopars had 4 speeds. Anything special you have to do to drop the VB ?

Other than having lots of rags handy to wipe your arms off? Not really. Loosen and remove the two levers on top. Remove the three bolts at the front and rear of the VB and 4 around the accumulator (10 total). Lower the VB. Unless someone has removed it already, there'll be a large spring between the VB and accumulator piston.The trickiest thing is pulling it forward to free the park rod from the pawl at the rear of the trans and pushing it back in later. You might be able to just lower and rotate the VB out of the way while you remove the seal.

Being able to turn the driveline makes taking the park rod out a breeze.
Same putting it back in.
Once the VB is loose from the trans a light yank towards the front of the car and it should pop out.
The deal is, there is a stub on the end of the rod and it goes past the park lock and gets stuck until the park lever lines up with one of the cogs on a wheel.
This is looking at that assembly from the other side, so you can see what I mean.
The stub on the end of the park rod sticks through to this side, so to get it through there most of the time you have to turn the driveline back and forth a little to get that lock to line up with the cogs on that wheel.