I have a 67 Barracuda with a 360 and a 727 trans. I pulled the trans out and took out a 11' B+M converter and put in a 10 " converter that came out of my drag car a few years back. The 10' converter worked fine in the drag car and stalled around 3500. I believe I was told it was a Dynamic converter when I bought the drag car. I put the trans back in and ran the car on jack stands, shifted it through the gears, topped off fluid etc. The car sat for a couple weeks. Last night I needed to move the car to my other garage so I let the car off the jack stands and fired it up. The car will barely move forward or in reverse. I had to rev it to about 3500 before the car would even try to move and then it would barely move. It's like the trans is just slipping really bad. I did nothing to the trans other than remove it - swap converter and reinstall. The only thing I can think of is there was a lot of space between the flex plate and the 10" converter I installed. I had read years ago in a paper that came with a B$M flex plate there should be no more than 3/16 inch between the flex plate and converter when the converter is pushed fully back towards the trans and if there was more space to use washers as shims. I did use washers as shims to take up some of the space so the converter did not pull too far out of the trans when I bolted it up. Any ideas on what could be causing this problem? I think all 727 trans use the same spline converter except the early push putton transmissions . Is it possible the front pump just took a dump? Is the converter stilled pulled too far away from the front pump even though I shimmed it? Is the trans junk now that I tried to move it? Any help will be appreciated. thanks
727 transmision problem
- Thread starter 500duster
- Start date
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64 SRT8 Dart
Well-Known Member
If you didn't get the conv hub all the way into the pump gear, it may have sheared the keys on the pump gear. At high rpm friction might be allowing the pump gear to turn enough to push some fluid to get the car to move.
Also, last year I built a 46re for a guy in a 99 Ram. He installed the converter on the flexplate improperly and it completely wiped out the converter and pump. Siezed the hub bearing onto the hub and proceeded to waller out the bearing seat as the converter was not positioned straight on the flexplate. His did exactly what you're talking about to the T.
Also, last year I built a 46re for a guy in a 99 Ram. He installed the converter on the flexplate improperly and it completely wiped out the converter and pump. Siezed the hub bearing onto the hub and proceeded to waller out the bearing seat as the converter was not positioned straight on the flexplate. His did exactly what you're talking about to the T.
I agree with the above post. I had the same problem years ago. Switched convertors, worked in the garage on jack stands. A week later took it to the track and something happened, no warning. Got home, removed trans and found this had happened. Replaced the front pump, reinstalled the convertor and was good to go.
transman
Well-Known Member
Did your drag car have a mid engine plate? If so, the converter for it would be different in overall height than the B&M. If the drag car didn't have the mid-plate then I agree with the other two replies.
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I'll have to pull the trans back out next weekend and check the front pump. My drag car did not have a mid plate so I'm not sure why this converter had so much space between the flex plate. The drag car was a big block but I've switched converters between big and small blocks before with no problems. I always look between the input shaft and front seal with a light to see where the pump ears are sitting so it makes it easier to slide the converter in. This one slid right in and engaged both sets of splines easily. I guess the only way to find out is rip it back apart.
Well I tore the transmission out today and the pump ears are not broken. When I drained the fluid it was not burned but there was a few small slivers of metal in the pan. Since the car did not want to move forward or back without revving to about 3500 rpm could it be the converter was bad. It seemed fine when I removed it from the drag car but it had been setting since 2006.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Small slivers are normal and come off the bushing edges.
Without burned fluid it would almost have to be a converter issue, and it seems the only thing else it could be is a sprag spinning instead of locking.
Pretty sure anyway.
Without burned fluid it would almost have to be a converter issue, and it seems the only thing else it could be is a sprag spinning instead of locking.
Pretty sure anyway.
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