727 Valve body

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yes as long as they are both the same type 727 valve body, lockup or non lockup. Valve bodies from 904 will also work, the same also apply lockup or non lockup.
 
Also, springs and certain metering orifices may be different, depending on year and application. All in all, it'll work. If you install a shift kit, all the differences won't mean much.
 
i forgot to mention that one is a '68 and the other is a '78. I didnt know if they made any big changes between those years or not?
 
Joe334 said:
i forgot to mention that one is a '68 and the other is a '78. I didnt know if they made any big changes between those years or not?
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The 68 didn't have part throttle kickdown that the 78 had and the front band servo is designed different. It'll work but since theirs a big diff. in them it's hard to say how it'll shift. May be sloppy shifting.

What year trans are you needing a valve body put in? If it's the newer one I have a good one out of a 76 I'll sell for $30 shipped in the USA. It's dusty from sitting so it'll need taken apart and cleaned. If you want me to go through it and do a thourough cleaning I can do that for $30 extra.
 
well my dad tore apart the valve body and said there wasnt anything wrong with it, so we will put it all back together and see if it shifts right, and if it doesnt ill just push it off a cliff
 
It only has 1st and reverse, my dad tore apart the tranny (cuz im away at college) and he said the clutches and everything looked good, but we had to send off our torque converter to get rebuilt b/c there were shavings in the pan and the guys at Edge converter said there wasnt anything wrong with the converter, so he tore apart the valve body and didnt find anything wrong with it, so i dont know what the deal was. Any ideas?
 
Assemble the trans, and do an air check of the clutches and servos. Without the VB installed, you'll be able to do it easily. The service manual has the test in the diagnostic section of the trans chapter. It sounds as though the rear clutch, which provides all forward speeds, may be slipping. The car may go in manual first due to the rear band being applied.
 
The clutch packs are tight, there are only about 5k miles on it, clutches are brand new, could that still be the case?
 
Joe334 said:
The clutch packs are tight, there are only about 5k miles on it, clutches are brand new, could that still be the case?
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Yes, because the clutches can be perfect, but if they cannot be applied due to a failure that prevents pressure to apply them, you'll get nothing.

The Air pressure test is in the PDF available on another thread in this section. Page 14 shows the passages you need to hit with low pressure air and listen for a "thunk". If you get hissing instead, there is a leak in the apply circuit, and you've found your problem.
 
Here's a page I scanned for doing the air pressure checks Max mentioned. That's what I do first too and it will reveal any problem within the hydraulic circuit short of a valve body problem.

Wow that pic sure came out small. Sorry. Get out the magnifying glasses. LOL

727 Air test ports.jpg
 
k i will have to do that next weekend and i will let you know how it turns out, thanks for your help guys
 
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