73 dodge dart TTI headers

-
wwwfora

wwwfora

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
95
Reaction score
1
Location
East Bay Area, CA
I know there's a lot of posts out there about TTI and the install process and issue with routing and mostly with the Z-bar. However, could owners of 1973 Dodge Dart (Sport) 340/360 4-Speed (Manual Steering) totally stripped engine, no bells or whistles - please stand up and let me know what headaches I'm into. I'll be ordering TTI Part # 340AW2-C5. The engine is out of the car and I don't want the Exhaust shop chewing me a new *** because he needs some part!!

Thank you!
 
I would think that it would be no different for your car than other Darts. The factory tolerances create issues as do other aftermarket parts such as scattershields,oil pans,suspension changes,ets. I think you'll need the mini starter with those headers? Get good gaskets and bolts,dont cheap out on the little stuff. New engine mounts will help make sure the engine is where it is supposed to be.

There was a recent thread by a member who is a mechanic and put in his own TTI system with an X pipe. His Dart has a 4 speed with an aftermarket scattershield. Maybe he'll post here and help you out. I think it was a tough project even for him.
 
Thanks guys, I read that whole post, and it freaked me out about my TTI's. He had(s) a 68 cuda, that's why I was asking specifically about my 73 Dart. I'm probably going to use the gasket that comes with the TTI's unless some of you state differently! and the bolts are going to be 12 point ARP's don't really see reason for the expensive Percy's Split Lock Friction Header Bolts. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-21004/
The tech support team at TTI said that you only need to grind or slightly bend the Z-bar, and that no extra parts are needed.

Thanks
 
Demon 408, those are some great pictures, and a beauty of an engine in the BLACK demon. Sweet! So, your saying, that if you didn't have the quick time bell housing, then the only mod you would have to make is grind and bend the Z-bar? If all parts are original? Also, I believe I do not have a mini starter, probably just the original stock part.

Thanks
 
My Dart has a 360/4 gear, mini starter, w/the later style spool mounts. The engine was in the car and I had no issues installing the TTI's cept for the bottom leg of the Z-bar. I did remove the steering column though for added clearance as not to scratch the ceramic coating.
 
wwwfora said:
Demon 408, those are some great pictures, and a beauty of an engine in the BLACK demon. Sweet! So, your saying, that if you didn't have the quick time bell housing, then the only mod you would have to make is grind and bend the Z-bar? If all parts are original? Also, I believe I do not have a mini starter, probably just the original stock part.

Thanks
Click to expand...

More than likely the only mod you will have is the bottom leg on the z-bar. However, you may have other areas that are close or may hit such as the idler arm (I had to grind mine slightly). The clearance on headers is so close in areas that an 1/8" difference here or there make it difficult to say that the z-bar will be your only problem. As needsaresto stated in his reply you want to ensure your motor mounts are in good condition. If the rubber in the spool mount allows the enging to "sag" in the mount the engine will sit lower than it would if you have new mounts. It is also possible to loosen all the motor mount bolts for the motor mount to the block and move the engine left or right (maybe an 1/8 of an inch), this might mean the difference between the headers hitting and not hitting.
 
I have solid motor mounts on mine, wonder how those are going to treat me...
 
To get back to you all and all who read this. Demon 408. Those were my issues exactly. The shop had to shorten the Z bar, and I had to grind the top and a little of the front of the Idler arm. I would suggest to anybody doing this job, to get new motor mounts or atleast know how to shift the engine slightly to adjust. Hate grinding brand new parts :) Plus about $150, to connect the exhaust back to the heads.
Thanks again all!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top