75 d100 360

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j par said:
Unusable to usable is more of a word like restoration? A hack as I take it as more someone who does a half-*** job at what could be done correctly. I believe I had done that correctly? I didn't put the correct weights in the correct place?
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Not questioning it at all.. You proved to us they ARE welded in the right spot. No vibration, great work :)
 

My 367 came out of a 71 Monaco/727. It still has the 71 Automatic balancer on it, and the balance shop drilled out an early 340 flywheel to make it all spin reliably to 7200. I have no knowledge of different 360 balancers.
 
AJ/FormS said:
My 367 came out of a 71 Monaco/727. It still has the 71 Automatic balancer on it, and the balance shop drilled out an early 340 flywheel to make it all spin reliably to 7200. I have no knowledge of different 360 balancers.
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If you look at manufacturers like Dorman and Dayco they list two different part numbers for the balancer. Of course the one I needed for my stick was more expensive. I wouldn't call you're engineering a hack, it's ingenuity! Wrenching on you're own build is pure motorhead satisfaction. I was curious though, where did you get the info as to the correct locations to weld on the weights? PS good work.
 
A833 said:
If you look at manufacturers like Dorman and Dayco they list two different part numbers for the balancer. Of course the one I needed for my stick was more expensive. I wouldn't call you're engineering a hack, it's ingenuity! Wrenching on you're own build is pure motorhead satisfaction. I was curious though, where did you get the info as to the correct locations to weld on the weights? PS good work.
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I brought everything to the balance shop, and said "make it work". I had never heard of different dampers for different cranks. Apparently neither had they, cuz, they made it work. And that was 1999, over 100,000 miles ago. My combo is a manual trans. They made the one side heavy by drilling holes on the opposite side of the flywheel, one big and two less big,lol. When they were done it looked to my untrained eye,almost like a regular 360 flywheel. I used the KB107s and bushed heavy factory 318 rods, and the 1971 stock cast crank, with it's 1971 damper. From the decks down it's pretty much all 360 factory "junk". IIRC the teener rods had the same casting numbers as the 360s, the only difference being the bushings. But the 107s were a little lighter than the factory slugs.
I have a big fat tomb called the "Direct Connection Performance Book", commonly referred to as the Bulletin Book. It tells where to weld the weights onto the convertors, and how much, plus a mountain of other useful Mopar information.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
I brought everything to the balance shop, and said "make it work". I had never heard of different dampers for different cranks. Apparently neither had they, cuz, they made it work. And that was 1999, over 100,000 miles ago. My combo is a manual trans.
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That is definitely the best way to go and balanced to 7200 rpm, I like. My budget build is more conservative. Just going with Ma Mopars knowhow. Last thing I wanted was to get it up and running and have a vibration, so I did the research. I love my 4 speed, I am running an OD version with 2.76 gears in a 8 3/4 rear with suregrip. She isn't great out of the hole but I cruse 1800 rpm at 75mph and when I crank it up I grab fourth gear at 110. One other note on the 360 swap, the 318-340 center sump pan will not swap over to the 360.
 
That combo is a 2.01 final drive ratio. I ran that same-ish final drive with The GVOD, plus the 833od, plus 3.55s, and yes I got fantastic fuel mileage with a 223@.050 cam. But Just remember to ease into overdrive. That gear only has 18 teeth and in no way compares in strength to the rest of the 833 gears. I unzipped the teeth on two of those, one with my 367HO, and one with my stock long-block, 1973 teener.

3.09x2.76=8.528, and 8.528/2.66=3.206, so it takes of like the regular A833 would with 3.21s. I didn't think it was too bad either, but that 223* cam made wicked torque at 10.9 compression ratio.

I told the balance shop, that I didn't care about vibration below 3000, I just wanted the engine to survive at shift-rpm.
I only shifted the Mopar 292/108 cam at 7200. The 223 cam usually got shifted quite a bit lower, but I often held it to 7000 in the first two gears. And the current 230* cam almost always gets held to 7000. Why you ask? Just cuz it goes there, and the power has not rolled off even noticeable yet in first-over @65=6900, cuz the tires are still spinning, and cuz it just sounds so darn awesome when the tach is pegged at 7000 for 5 to 6 seconds... atta time. Call me crazy, I'm OK with that; she's held together since 1999, and over 100,000 miles so whatever the balance shop did, it mustabin right.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
That combo is a 2.01 final drive ratio. I ran that same-ish final drive with The GVOD, plus the 833od, plus 3.55s, and yes I got fantastic fuel mileage with a 223@.050 cam. But Just remember to ease into overdrive. That gear only has 18 teeth and in no way compares in strength to the rest of the 833 gears. I unzipped the teeth on two of those, one with my 367HO, and one with my stock long-block, 1973 teener.

3.09x2.76=8.528, and 8.528/2.66=3.206, so it takes of like the regular A833 would with 3.23s. I didn't think it was too bad either, but that 223* cam made wicked torque at 10.9 compression ratio.

I told the balance shop, that I didn't care about vibration below 3000, I just wanted the engine to survive at shift-rpm.
I only shifted the Mopar 292/108 cam at 7200. The 223 cam usually got shifted quite a bit lower, but I often held it to 7000 in the first two gears. And the current 230* cam almost always gets held to 7000. Why you ask? Just cuz it goes there, and the power has not rolled off even noticeable yet in first-over @65=6900, cuz the tires are still spinning, and cuz it just sounds so darn awesome when the tach is pegged at 7000 for 5 to 6 seconds. Call me crazy, I'm OK with that; she's held together since 1999, and over 100,000 miles so whatever the balance shop did, it mustabin right.
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Thanks for the advice about the 4th gear vulnerability on the OD units. Sounds like you got a real runner there. I am just running stock 360 with a AVS 4 barrel from a 60's 340 with dual exhaust. Not making the kind of HP you have. I haven't even made a pass on a quarter mile yet. I doubt I would even get it into 4th in the quarter the way its geared. She is just a fun driver to drive nights, shows and cruising. If I went for a new cam, what would you recommend? I have a 1990 360 with roller cam stock.
 
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