8 3/4 exact measurement PLEASE

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RPM said:
side note here.
If you go the route of shortening the housing up to your dimensions make sure that the shop that does it checks the housing flange ends for being straight. I have found that when cutting them down a few inches the flange ends usually are not straight..Alot of the housings have a slight bow in them but straigten out to the ends. So when you cut in, you reach the bow and your flange ends will be crooked. Its not that way on all, but I have played that game with a few, mostly from E-body cars though.....weird...
So I thought it my duty to pass that info along. Hope it helps.

-RPM
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If they are shortening the housing, they cut the ends off and use a jig to weld the ends back on, if they know what they are doing. I have shortened a fair share. The tubes are generaly warped a little because they have usually had a fair share of weight on them for the better part of 30 plus years and steel sags with time, when you jig the ends up to the housing they may seem off set to the ends of the tubes but I have never run into any bent so bad they wouldn't work.

When you pull the axles out of a rear and look at the splines, you will (or should) be able to see how much of the splines actually get engaged into the rear end when they are in place, the amount of spline that is not used is a potential amount for the housing to be shortend on that side, generally between 1/2" to 3/4" on each side. What I am saying is if your looking for that extra half inch of room on each side with a B body rear in an A body, you can shorten the housing that little bit and just have the ends of the axles cut off that much. The last rear I put in my Dart was a B body housing narrowed 3/4" each side using the stock axles shortened 3/4" each and using 5 1/2" back spaced wheels.
 
can i just move the perch's in to the 43in center to center and leave the rest of the rear alone?? PLEASE REPLY
 
Only moving the perches in to 43" is the easiest and cheapest way. Just be ready to go looking for wheels, because you will have clearance issues without an unusually large or custom amount of backspace, unless you compensate by jacking the rear up to an abnormal height, at which point your rear wheels look like they are hanging too far out on the back of a stink bug.

Kraby knows what he is talking about WRT the housing issues. I ended up having mine cut twice to get it right where I wanted, about a 1/4" wider than stock-A on each side. A reputable shop does it on a jig and can get it perfect for whatever axles you want to put in there. I used the Yukons with just enough spline engaged to seat them fully. IMO, to do this right is going to cost another $3-400 for axels and shorthening the housing. Get all the parts together (including the diff), take them to a good shop and tell them to make it fit. Don't weld the perches on until after you have it mocked up in the car and the pinion angle set. Why mess with shims?

Anything else will probably just end up being more headaches. I know that is not what you want to hear, but I have almost a grand in my rear and glad I spent the money.

Or was that a grand "out" the rear??? :yawinkle:
 
The rearend you have will be 1.425 inch wider per side than a stock a-body. If you are going to use stock width rallyes and it is a '67 up a-body it will have plenty of tire clearance. If you go to a bigger than stock wheel then you will need to add 1.425 inches to the offset of wheel you would use if you had a stock width rear. For example, if you would have used a 4" backspacing wheel with a stock width rearend you would need a 5.5 inch back spacing wheel to have it be the same overall track width. Not that big of deal with all of the wheel manufacturers to choose from today.
 
it a 70 dart custom (not my custom but factory custom) so i think i'll just have some factory rims widened
 
I am going to get an 8 3/4 housing shortened for my '69 dart soon, so should the measurements for a stock rearend be 51.400 43.00 and 12.35 like on the chart that Mrmopartech posted? Also the shop I am getting it from said that the 3rd member is the large yoke i think, so i would assume that means it is stronger?
 
:shaking2: I have 53 inch 7 1/4. I am running with 1 inch wheel adapters which makes 55 and wide goodrichs and still have plenty of room on my 73 duster, Just move the perches for the cheapest way out. You probalbly need to shorten drive shaft, can't wait to find a posi though for my 8 1/4 I just bought, thanks walt :salute:
 

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