8 3/4 rear seal installer

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Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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So my first test with my 3D printed installer when very well.

1.76 all the way around with backing plate in place.

Don't know if that is the right depth yet.

PXL_20230728_013314202.jpg


BUT....

I hit it one time to many....
PXL_20230728_013540960.PORTRAIT.jpg


The 3D material I used is a bit on the brittle side.

Next one I will use a slightly more flexible material.
 
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is there a shallow lip inside tube to stop seal in proper spot or just a guessing game kinda thing?
 
I don't know, there is a lip, but it is more of a chamfer, and I don't know if it is the correct depth.

Some say it is, others say measure.

So my plan is to test fit an axle in with grease on the seal surface and on the face of the retainer.

When I pull it out if grease transfers to the seal, the seal is not in far enough.

And the grease on the axle seal surface will show how far into the surface the seal is riding.

At least that is the theory
 

Looks good. I’ve always put them into the chamfer. The seal butts up against it. Never had a leak in 45 years. Kim
I'm hopping that ends up being the same depth then I will change the design and remove the outer stop that broke off.

My neighbor is an avid wood turner so maybe I'll have him turn me one with a handle out of hard wood.
 
Is 1.76 depth a factory stated value. Measured mine prior to removal and had 1.5625 (1-9/16).
 
The depth is WITH the backing plate (0.120) thickness

So 1.76 - .120 is 1.64"

BUT... I have not verified if the depth is good yet.

your measurement might be correct and if it's not rubbing or leaking would be good
 
I printed another installer out of a less brittle material.

This time I was able to beat the **** out of it.

I changed the install depth by 0.020" to 1.75" from the outside of the backing plate to the seal surface.

Unfortunately my printer decided to take another 0.010 to 0.020 off the total so the seal got installed at 1.73"

I have some heavy card stock that measures 0.010" so I made a shim and drove it in a bit more.

Got really close to the 1.75" I was looking for.

I put an endo scope down and it is not touching the chamfer as best I can tell with my crappy blurry endoscope.

I did put some red lipstick (With the wife's permission) on the seal surface and bearing retainer of an old style green bearing axle and an OEM axle (Making sure the cup and rollers stayed in contact)

And inserted both.

The lipstick whipped off to mid seal surface and nothing transfered from the keeper to the seal face.


So the 1. 77 to 1.75 is my dimension I'm shooting for.

PXL_20230802_180626300~2.jpg


PXL_20230802_180934530.jpg


PXL_20230802_181001338.jpg
 
So the end of the story....

Seal installer worked great on 3 seals before it broke.

The entire reason I started this process, was my newly rebuilt 8 3/4 was leaking oil


Come to find out the shop neglected to install both side inner seals. :mob:
 
So the end of the story....

Seal installer worked great on 3 seals before it broke.

The entire reason I started this process, was my newly rebuilt 8 3/4 was leaking oil


Come to find out the shop neglected to install both side inner seals. :mob:

With Harbor Frieght stuff I never expect their tools to last more than one use. So you are beating HF by at least 200%.
 
So the end of the story....

Seal installer worked great on 3 seals before it broke.

The entire reason I started this process, was my newly rebuilt 8 3/4 was leaking oil


Come to find out the shop neglected to install both side inner seals. Lots don’t if u use green bearings. I always install them.
 
Zap up a driver like I posted on your first thread and have a multi generational tool that your great grand kids could hand down:lol:
 
I have a friend with a wood lathe, if he turned me one out of hard wood it would last much longer.

From steel it would last forever!
 
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