Ratech has them.
1102
Stick with it and take your time. I've walked away more than once and started the next day with a fresh mind. The more setups you do the better you get at it. Also 400 grit on a piece of glass can work to remove .001Son of a... well at least now I know LOL. I saw that kit listed on Summit with no specs to speak of but didn't think to check the manufacturer's website.
I have new Mitutoyo electronic calipers coming in the mail today (got tired of using inaccurate and unreliable Harbor Freight junk) and the shims should be arriving tomorrow, both from McMaster. Damn I love that site.
I also stopped by Lowe's Tuesday after work and picked up a Craftsman 1/2"-drive 50-250 lb-ft clicker torque wrench upon the recommendation of a car buddy who restores cars (and freight trains lol) for a living. Thing is pretty nice for being 100 bucks, almost 3 feet long for extra leverage with a decent carrying case and even came with a calibration certificate. Now I can properly torque the pinion nut without using my impact.
Supposed to be somewhat cold this weekend but I think tidying up my garage and getting my propane heater fired up will help with morale lol. I'm mentally preparing myself to make this 3rd-member my b*tch and do whatever it takes to make it right.
What's the backlash with the new pattern? Are you applying drag when you run a pattern? Are you running a pattern in multiple locations on the ring gear? If so, do they all look the same?
Just curious - when you took it out after the first time, did you double check the backlash before disassembling? Did it change?
I use aviation nonhardening sealant on the lower half only.I skipped going to the gym yesterday after work to hopefully get the 3rd member done and back into the car but I ran into an issue that I should have known to avoid but I was being impatient and stupid. Probably obvious to the more experienced but DO NOT USE AN IMPACT to torque the pinion nut! After so many times installing then removing then reinstalling the pinion and using my impact to torque the pinion nut I ended up ruining the outer pinion bearing cone. Got it together then when I went to check the turning torque it didn't turn smoothly, felt like it was rolling on marbles or something. Also noticed I kept having to take out preload shims to maintain correct preload. I removed the seal and outer bearing cone and turning the rollers in my hand you could feel it was "bumpy". My guess is the rollers hammered themselves into the inner race. D'oh!
I had to spend extra time running to the store to get a new bearing and seal and then again going through the process of figuring out pinion preload spacers, this time using my new "big" torque wrench to properly torque the pinion nut each time. The inner cone is new too I didn't use the impact after pressing that one on the pinion.
Really hoping to have this done tomorrow or Saturday at the latest, I'd like to go to the rifle range Sunday with my brother and after that I'll be in a world of darkness since DST is ending.
Quick question, would lightly wetting the paper 3rd member gasket with gear oil keep it from sticking to the mating surfaces for easier removal, or would that make it more prone to leak? I don't want to use RTV or anything sticky so it's easier to swap out pumpkins. I tried some gasket stuff last time (forget the name exactly) but it ended up acting like an adhesive and I had to scrape it off with a razor blade.
Do you use it on both sides of the gasket?I use aviation nonhardening sealant on the lower half only.
Amazon product ASIN B000HBM3QQ
Yes. I also retorque several times after running a while. Leaks normally start around the stud area on my stuff.Do you use it on both sides of the gasket?
I checked my invoice from Dr Diff and they're Motive brand. Honestly if it doesn't mean the gears will shred themselves I'll just deal with the noise. I imagine taking it to a shop will cost a decent amount and the pattern looked good so idk what's up.What brand gears are they? Some of the cheaper brands just have a tendancy to make noise.
It has too much pinion gear depth. You need to back it out a little.Well I'm sad to report it still whines. At lower speeds (under about 40) it whines on coast, at higher speeds it whines lightly on acceleration. I drove it about 10 miles and the sound stayed the same. I put it back together with .007" backlash and the pattern still looked like the last pic I posted. What gives? What will happen if I just keep driving it and ignore the noise? I did touch the rear end housing in the center after driving and it was pretty warm.
If the pinion depth needs to be readjusted I'm going to take the 3rd member to a shop, this project killed me. I might be able to readjust backlash but that's as much as I'm willing to do at this point.
It has too much pinion gear depth. You need to back it out a little.
Also, FWIW, I don't use a gasket on 3rd member style rear axles. RTV only. It's always worked well for me.
30 minutes? What have you been using to scrape it off with, a dull butter knife? It cleans right up with a razor blade scraper.I wouldn't be surprised but I just straight up don't have the energy to pull this thing and take it apart for a third time. I thought about putting a .038" shim pack behind the pinion (has .039" now, started with .035" and that was too far "out") but I was sooo over it I just ran out of patience. Already threw about $80 in the trash doing it a second time. I know it's the right thing to do but I just can't bring myself to do it. If it was still reasonably warm outside and didn't get dark by 5:00PM I might be more motivated. Also just a lot of stress from other life stuff like applying for jobs and keeping up with going to the gym, cleaning my house, feeding myself, taking care of my cat, putting up with a job I don't like etc etc. I need my Duster running because it's the only way I can really release after a rough day. And boy these gears made it quite a rush, with all the BS I'm still glad I did it. Being able to get rubber all the way through 1st gear is just fantastic.
I've successfully used RTV as well but I HATE having to spend 30+ minutes scraping off every last little bit of rubbery goo so it seals on the next install. The paper gasket seems to be holding up well I don't see any seepage from the case/housing. I just want to be able to swap center sections quickly. Which reminds me I still need to bolt my 2.94 ring gear on the open diff I took out of the 489 case and put it back in my old 741 case... who knows when that'll happen.
30 minutes? What have you been using to scrape it off with, a dull butter knife? It cleans right up with a razor blade scraper.