8.75 and 8.25 ready to go in (almost)

[TrailBeast]

I built the 8.75 Sure Grip for a buddy in trade for his A body 8.25 Sure Grip that I took out of his car.
Both are ready to go except for the little brackets to hold where the flex lines meet the hard line.
Got those delivered yesterday, and will be putting them on later today.
A body 8.75 reconditioned Auburn Sure Grip, 3.21 Gears, all new bearings and seals, Sure Grip additive, aftermarket disc brake kit with Dr Diff heavy duty axles and 2 inch wheel studs.

 

[TrailBeast]

Then this is the 8.25 Sure Grip I got for building his.
8.25 A body Auburn Sure Grip (looks like new inside) 2.91 gears, new bearings, seals, perches moved in 1/2 inch like my springs to clear my new wheels, Jeep Cherokee rear disc brakes, Sure Grip additive.
This is the one that I need spring plates and U bolts for.
Once this is installed I will have a good solid drive train consisting of a 96 5.9 Magnum, EQ heads, Hughes valve gear, double roller on a 214/224 with .512 lift 110 lobe center roller cam by Oregon Cams, long tube headers, aluminum intake with an Edelbrock 1406 electric choke carb, Stock style recurved distributor firing HEI ignition, 42RH overdrive trans with converter lockup, new driveshaft with 7290 U joints, 8.25 Sure Grip and 4 wheel disc brakes.

It's almost time to start steering with the rear again, because it's been a long time.
Actually it's been a long time since the Wife let me get back on the cars instead of doing house remodeling.

 

[Projectile Dart]

Both of these look amazing, I am looking into getting a 8.25 for my Dart in the future (once funds and fiance allow) What do you think is the ballpark price for one like yours for either building it yourself or buying it finished? I don't mind drums in the rear but I am also a fan of going to the junkyard and seeing what new stuff can work with my old stuff, especially if it came off a Jeep

 

[HTMLmopars]

Both of these look amazing, I am looking into getting a 8.25 for my Dart in the future (once funds and fiance allow) What do you think is the ballpark price for one like yours for either building it yourself or buying it finished? I don't mind drums in the rear but I am also a fan of going to the junkyard and seeing what new stuff can work with my old stuff, especially if it came off a Jeep

I bought a Sure Grip 8.25 out of an F-body from a guy on Craigslist, cost me $300 to buy, I was in it for less than $1000 by the time I got it installed in the car (spring perch relocation, brakes, wheels/tires) Overall it was well worth the investment, better traction, I got more aggressive gears, and more beefiness than the 7.25 I started with

 

[Projectile Dart]

I bought a Sure Grip 8.25 out of an F-body from a guy on Craigslist, cost me $300 to buy, I was in it for less than $1000 by the time I got it installed in the car (spring perch relocation, brakes, wheels/tires) Overall it was well worth the investment, better traction, I got more aggressive gears, and more beefiness than the 7.25 I started with

How did the width of the F-body rear end work for you?

 

[HTMLmopars]

How did the width of the F-body rear end work for you?

That was what forced the wheel/tire change, as well as bolt pattern going from 5x4 to 5x4.5. Took some effort, and a lot of guess and check with wheels, but I finally got the backspacing right, so that 245/65/15 tires fit underneath.

 

[Projectile Dart]

That was what forced the wheel/tire change, as well as bolt pattern going from 5x4 to 5x4.5. Took some effort, and a lot of guess and check with wheels, but I finally got the backspacing right, so that 245/65/15 tires fit underneath.

I already converted the front to BBP disks out with '73 spindles and am looking for BBP in the rear anyway so that would be ideal for me. I am also running steel wheels off a 2006ish Dodge Charger because I THINK that they will work with either an original A-body rear or certain B-body rear's but I wasnt sure how the F-body would compare. Running a 245ish tire is my ultimate goal but it wont kill me to run a skinnier tire if I need to. I just want to avoid having to cut and narrow anything

 

[HTMLmopars]

I already converted the front to BBP disks out with '73 spindles and am looking for BBP in the rear anyway so that would be ideal for me. I am also running steel wheels off a 2006ish Dodge Charger because I THINK that they will work with either an original A-body rear or certain B-body rear's but I wasnt sure how the F-body would compare. Running a 245ish tire is my ultimate goal but it wont kill me to run a skinnier tire if I need to. I just want to avoid having to cut and narrow anything

I believe that the F-body rear is narrower than most B-bodies, but someone else on here can probably correct me on that. I would guess that late model wheels would work well, I'm running something about 4.5" backspace, on a 7" wheel, and I've got at least another inch between the tire and spring perch on the inside, so I could probably run 5" backspace.

 

[TrailBeast]

Both of these look amazing, I am looking into getting a 8.25 for my Dart in the future (once funds and fiance allow) What do you think is the ballpark price for one like yours for either building it yourself or buying it finished? I don't mind drums in the rear but I am also a fan of going to the junkyard and seeing what new stuff can work with my old stuff, especially if it came off a Jeep

I am getting the original A body 8.25 for doing the build and swap of the 8.75, and he bought all the parts.
I don't have to shorten anything but my driveshaft.
Around here you can get 8.25's out of about anything Dodge rear wheel drive for $150 out of the pick a part, but they would normally have to be shortened and new shorter axles.
The Jeep Liberty has a narrower axle than most other jeep or dodge products so correctly backspaced wheels can work on A bodies.
AND they already have the disc brakes and even Sure Grips in some cases.

I already converted the front to BBP disks out with '73 spindles and am looking for BBP in the rear anyway so that would be ideal for me. I am also running steel wheels off a 2006ish Dodge Charger because I THINK that they will work with either an original A-body rear or certain B-body rear's but I wasnt sure how the F-body would compare. Running a 245ish tire is my ultimate goal but it wont kill me to run a skinnier tire if I need to. I just want to avoid having to cut and narrow anything

I moved my mounts and springs inward 1/2 inch and trimmed the inner fender lip back to the trim screws to put 9 inch wide 20's on the back with 245-40 tires.
When I ordered wheels I wanted as much rim and tire both as I could get under there without a major spring relocation.
I now have about 1/2 inch between the springs and tires and about 1 inch to the fender lip.
The wheels are 5 inch backspace and the rims are 9 inches wide.
It's the inner fender housing that limits more than that, but I realize these cars vary also, so we can't take one car's clearances to be the same on others.
Using a plum bob and a tape measure told me everything I needed to know before ordering the wheels.

I believe that the F-body rear is narrower than most B-bodies, but someone else on here can probably correct me on that. I would guess that late model wheels would work well, I'm running something about 4.5" backspace, on a 7" wheel, and I've got at least another inch between the tire and spring perch on the inside, so I could probably run 5" backspace.

See above.

 

[MileHighDart]

That's some nice work there man. Keep it up!

 

[Righty Tighty]

I am getting the original A body 8.25 for doing the build and swap of the 8.75, and he bought all the parts.
I don't have to shorten anything but my driveshaft.
Around here you can get 8.25's out of about anything Dodge rear wheel drive for $150 out of the pick a part, but they would normally have to be shortened and new shorter axles.
The Jeep Liberty has a narrower axle than most other jeep or dodge products so correctly backspaced wheels can work on A bodies.
AND they already have the disc brakes and even Sure Grips in some cases.

I've tried some searches to find info on Chrysler 8.25 rears and their compatibility with A bodies, but haven't found real definitive answers. So, I take it they are compatible with possibly some trimming of the housing/drive shaft shortening? I found a rear from a '92 Cherokee that I think I'm gonna try on my '71 Scamp. Thoughts?

 

[TrailBeast]

I've tried some searches to find info on Chrysler 8.25 rears and their compatibility with A bodies, but haven't found real definitive answers. So, I take it they are compatible with possibly some trimming of the housing/drive shaft shortening? I found a rear from a '92 Cherokee that I think I'm gonna try on my '71 Scamp. Thoughts?

What you need to do is a google search for the length of your axle, and then the length of different Chrysler axles.
Of course anything can be done with shortening and custom length axles.
Dr. Diff has the axles, or can make them any length you need.
If I remember they run about 300 a set.

Then you come up with stuff like this.
An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list

And this.
about 55.5 quick rough measurement.
From here. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f28/looking-kk-kj-rear-axle-widths-964526/

So the difference between the A body Mopar rear at 51.5 and the Liberty rear at 55.5 gives 2 inches difference per side.
This can be done without cutting and shortening if you get wheels with the backspacing required.
Or cut 2 inches off the axle.

It definitely takes some investigation, and I NEVER take one or two search results as the definitive answer.

 

[scott657]

TB, are you replacing a 7.25 in your dart?

 

[QuickDart360]

What you need to do is a google search for the length of your axle, and then the length of different Chrysler axles.
Of course anything can be done with shortening and custom length axles.
Dr. Diff has the axles, or can make them any length you need.
If I remember they run about 300 a set.

Then you come up with stuff like this.
An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list

And this.
about 55.5 quick rough measurement.
From here. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f28/looking-kk-kj-rear-axle-widths-964526/

So the difference between the A body Mopar rear at 51.5 and the Liberty rear at 55.5 gives 2 inches difference per side.
This can be done without cutting and shortening if you get wheels with the backspacing required.
Or cut 2 inches off the axle.

It definitely takes some investigation, and I NEVER take one or two search results as the definitive answer.

Hey Trailbeast how will you adapt emergency brake cables to rear disc set up?

 

[TrailBeast]

Not sure yet, but I have the OE cables so it shouldn't be too hard even if I have to make a new cable from the main front cable to the 8.25 cables.