8.75 Sure Grip axle end play - left side

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Check if the bearings and collars are actually seated fully against the flange.
If they aren't you'll could experience this issue of not being able to set adjustment.
 
Bad Sport said:
OK, the right side adjusts both sides. Look at your bearing/axle retainers, when you put the bolts in did they have to pull it in or did they seat well against the housing/backing plate and you just tightened the nuts?
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They seemed to seat well against the backing plates.
 
BigBlockMopar said:
Check if the bearings and collars are actually seated fully against the flange.
If they aren't you'll could experience this issue of not being able to set adjustment.
Click to expand...

This may be the case... I'll look at that later this evening when I get back out to the garage -- in about 2 hrs. If they're not... then what? can I tap them toward the flange? or must they be pressed?
 
ph23vo said:
the splines are NOT the problem... that's about 1/2 inch or more..not .060 or so.. possibly clutch sure grips have a more narrow thrust button compared to non s/g or cone... maybe some rear end guys could enlighten.. mines fixed by swapping the axel... even reinstalled the old one once more to double triple ck and it was the same still.. find another axel
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So you think I can find an axle .060" longer? I'd be hard pressed to figure out how to even MEASURE an axle for such a small difference. You HAD an extra, but I don't. I'm not ignoring your suggestion, but I'm gonna try checking and rechecking as others here have suggested first. That'd make it easier to do than trying to scrounge up an axle.

JD
 
BigBlockMopar said:
Check if the bearings and collars are actually seated fully against the flange.
If they aren't you'll could experience this issue of not being able to set adjustment.
Click to expand...

Oh, hey, quick update... I couldn't resist going out and just checking on something... Both axles ARE evidently touching the thrust spacers because I can feel them moving against each other when I spread my arms and push against both axles at the same time. If I push one inward, the other moves outward -- back and forth I can feel it. SO... I'm thinkin' BigBlockMopar is the leader in the clubhouse here, because if the bearings and collars were more seated (outboard) against the flange, that .070" end play would lessen. I should be able to tap them .060" closer, shouldn't I? (My grandfather, who was a Marine Diesel Engineer with unlimited papers used to say, "Little taps will kill the Devil.")

Whaddaya think?

JD
 
Question- did you remove or change the wheel bearings or did you just install a sure-grip unit? If you didn't remove or have the wheel bearings changed there's no way they have just came loose. I've installed new wheel bearings and it takes quite a bit of pressure with my 20 ton press to seat the retaining collar

The way things work is you install both axles then crank the right side adjuster down until it butts the left axle up tight against it's bearing plate then you back the adjuster off until there's about .008" end play. Maybe you just not screwing the adjuster in far enough???
 
Bad Sport said:
"Did you follow this procedure?

Using a dial indicator mounted on the left axle and indicating on the brake backing plate, turn the adjuster clockwise until both wheel bearings are seated and there is ZERO end play in the axle shafts."

This was the answer. Problem is solved. Dumb ol' me can't tell the differerence between clockwise and counterclockwise, evidently. Did you all know that one could back that adjuster out COUNTERclockwise and remove the end play? (but just from the right side) That's where I made my mistake. Once I ran it in a bunch more, it eliminate all the excess end play on BOTH sides. Readjusted to .013" end play per manual's procedures.

Thanks to all of your for chipping in with all of your advice. I'm posting the answer to this riddle (my bad) so that if anybody else has this issue, they can see my own resolution. ("When in doubt, read the instructions")

Relieved, I am,
JD
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rub2stix said:
Once I ran it in a bunch more, it eliminates all the excess end play on BOTH sides. Readjusted to .013" end play per manual's procedures.
Click to expand...

Glad you got it straightened out. That's what I was eluding to the whole time, both axles come together in the center against the thrust buttons.

Now go to it! :burnout:
 
If you loosen the adjuster far enough, the teeth on the spanner nut bind against the back side of the axle flange. This makes the axle feel tight, even though the wheel bearing is super loose.
 
rub2stix said:
Bad Sport said:
Dumb ol' me can't tell the differerence between clockwise and counterclockwise, evidently. Did you all know that one could back that adjuster out COUNTERclockwise and remove the end play? (but just from the right side) That's where I made my mistake.
Click to expand...

LoL...That brings back HS memories. I did that on my '66 Sport Fury when I got a deal and spent my savings on a SG and installed it. 2 months later I needed new bearings and adjuster sets. My friends dad was THE machinist at the local NAPA. I brought the axles in and when he saw them reads me the riot act. Something like, you dumb kids don't know nothing do ya, rant, rant, rave, etc., etc. Ranting continues for about 20 minutes or so then he hands me the axles and says he "I ain't gonna press another set, read the book!"
Embarrassed and basically broke, tail between legs but learned a lot!
Ah, the good old days!
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