9" drum to disc conversion confusion

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Completed ordering the rest of my brake parts from rockauto at $205 so j have gott all my parts for about $425..not bad . Back to work now when I get them installed I will try to share pics this is all from my phone
 
Ok I have cleaned and painted all used and new parts checking things out I noticed the innrr wheel bearing is attached to the inner race and the inner race slips onto the spindles with out force but appears somewhat snug is this normal so that the dust cap can retain the bearing when slipped onto the spindle
 
Wilwood Drum to Disc conversion. Powdercoat was free with purchase from RMs.
 

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I guess my whole problem was that I wasnt sure if the willwood kit would change me from sbp to bbp which really was my main goal
 
Here it is before and after. Yes it was more difficult than a kit. But i like it. Also im not sure if performance calipers are made fir all the dust and debris of daily driving
 

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When i switched to fmj spindles from 9" a body drum spindle my alignment was good befor tires are way toed out and i was wondering is a longer tie rod neccessary to get back into adjustment
 
A dust cap doesn't retain a bearing race. I use a punch to scar the bores in the hub before knocking the race in. Look at it this way... If a bearing locks up it's going to spin one race or the other or both. The inner races are slip fit to the spindle so... proper lubrication and preload are more important than initial fitment of the races.
 
Just get the willwood kit and be done with it. 659 bucks and all is new and you can go big or small bolt pattern. Never understood why someone would spend time and money trying to mix and match a bunch of used parts when you can get an easy to install kit that works great.
 
I just put an SSBC a153 kit on the front and a Summit BK1329 on the rears of a 64 Dart. The SSBC kit was a snap once I got the proper early 10" spindles. The Summit kit was a bit of a disappointment though. The brackets the hold the calipers are 2 seperate pieces which make it a little flimsier than a one piece bracket would be and the ebrake seems like an afterthought which I got to work, but may be a problem in the future. Also, Moser axles with thicker bearing retainers left the kits bolt too short on the axle flange. The price was very reasonable though.
As far as the 9" drum spindles, I agree that they are a bad design and should be replaced if you drive in traffic anywhere. The weight of the car and any possible inertia you may throw at it rely on the bolt only, no end loading. And they do tend to break at the most inopportune moments...
 
There are many reasons why i didnt go with wilwood or other aftermarket parts.i dont want alumibum calipers that are made for performance or weekend driving.. but anyhow alot of it is opinions and i like a bit of a challenge. So this was my way for me so thanks to all who have made actual helpful comments.
 
CJP4130 said:
Just get the willwood kit and be done with it. 659 bucks and all is new and you can go big or small bolt pattern. Never understood why someone would spend time and money trying to mix and match a bunch of used parts when you can get an easy to install kit that works great.
Click to expand...

Hmm, lets see...

FMJ spindles, backing plates, caliper brackets: <$100 at local yard (yes, I've bought them for less than $100. Three times now.)
rebuilt calipers: $62 @ Napa
new semi-metallic pads: $15 @ Napa
new rotors: $100 @ Napa
new bearings and seals: $20 @ Napa
new ball joint adaptor: $50 @ Dr. Diff's.

Total: $347

That's pretty much like for like, seeing as how the wilwood kit doesn't include the brake lines, master cylinder, combination valve, etc. And the wilwood brake lines will cost you more than a set of 73+ stockers. Plus, if you're at the yard pulling spindles, you can get the combo valve too. As far as "mixing and matching" old parts, you don't have to. The only used parts you really need are the spindles. Combo valve is a bonus, but you can buy them new also. Everything else I just buy new because the prices aren't much worse than the yard when you start considering core charges and the condition of some of the wearing parts. And the only thing that's being "mixed" is the spindle to the UCA. The rest is all intended to work together, all bone stock.

If you do go with the wilwood kit, you're stuck with them for any replacement parts you'll need later as well. With the 73+ Mopar stuff you can just go to the local parts store, RockAuto, whatever. The 73+ disk brakes were used on a lot of cars well into the eighties, and on the 5th Aves and Diplomats all the way up to '89, so those parts should be available for a long time yet.

As far as the FMJ spindle geometry, it is almost negligibly different. It shouldn't effect your alignment geometry enough to need the offset UCA bushings, although I recommend those anyway to improve on the stock alignment specs, which were for bias ply's. I'm running FMJ spindles on my Challenger and my Duster, I've had no issues with either one.
 
I like the wildwood kit because all I had to do was pull all the drum parts off and put the wildwood kit on. No backing plate change, no spindle change, didn't have to change the master or the combination valve and they work great, dual bolt pattern and I can get the replacement parts at O'Reilly.
 
Late onto the discussion but TREBLIG you is the MAN!

Gold star for the wonderful explanation of Mopar front suspension!

happy New Year from a very impressed LIMEY!
 
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