Hey,,I have a 1972 duster/twister with 9 inch front brakes. I have a brake light on, on the dash from time to time, it doesn't stay on all the time. The brakes are so hard, that I have to stand on them to get them to stop. This is a manual system. Is this normal for the 9 inch brakes to be that hard. I converted the rear brakes to 10 inch, due to the fact I went from the 7 1/4 to the 8 3/4 rearend. I'm thinking on installing the 10 inch fronts hoping this will clear the problem, maybe not, don't know if I have other issues with the system. I ran new hoses in the front, new hose on the rear, new hard lines in the rear, new wheel cylinders on all 4 corners, new shoes, nothing new on the hard lines in the front, and I still have the same proprotinal valve, and a new dual master cylinder. Hard as a rock pedal, it will stop if I stand hard on it. I am getting pressure to all the wheels, I know this from bleeding the system 100 times. I want to change the front 9" to 10" hoping this will make a difference. Are the spindles the same on the 9 and the 10"?, and are the lower ball joints the same? Thanks for your answers.
9" to 10" front brakes/hard pedal
- Thread starter 6twister
- Start date
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66plyValiant
Well-Known Member
usually a hard pedal means that one or more wheel cylinder isn't working properly (seized) with manual drum brakes the pedal will feel harder then with power drums or power disc, but it should still travel without standing on the pedal. personally I changed to hydroboost power drums, best cheapest thing I have ever done!
cudajim
cudajim
The spindles are different from 9" to 10" as are the bearings and drums. I am not sure about ball joints however.
daliant
Befuddled
probably dirt or debris in the proportioning valve or the master cyl bore is too large for manual brakes. Ball joints are different from 9'' to 10" drums.
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