97- 04 mustang rims again !

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garyfish340

garyfish340

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If you have a 17 x 8 / 5.72 B.S. Mustang rim ( already machined wheel center bore ) , and in the front you need a 3/8" spacer ( for tie rod clearance ), don't you also need a centric-ring to keep the wheel hub-centric. Thus longer wheel studs too. ( for stock rotors.)
The reason I ask this is because, every couple of weeks, we are all giving a break down to a question posted, about what is needed to properly mount a bullit wheel. I'm sure some people feel like a centric ring isn't that important, but it's an option toward building a more solid recipe in the " how to tec. " When it came time to research, I couldn't even find the big bolt pattern center bore size listed. I'm guessing 71.5, maybe. But, horse shoes, and hand grenades later, and guessing isn't good enough. I've had lug-centric wheels, rush the installation and you can get a evil high speed shimmy. I found out the hard way once on a 150 mile interstate trip. When I arrived I had to barrow some tools to fix things, and re-tighten my front fender bolts.
Thanks...
 
This is a post about the Ford Mustang 17 x 8 - 5.75 B.S. rim.
So I've read a few posts so far, where people are saying they needed wheel spacers to clear tie rod ends. Than again, I had a person just P.M. me, stating that this wasn't a problem during his experience. The one thing I noted in the case, where there was no trouble, the car was originally a small bolt pattern car converted to big bolt. So I'm curious what combination of parts precluded the issue, because it's worth noting for future reference. I also spoke to another person last month, who claim to be issue free, with the front suspension. That person used a disc brake conversion kit, which was built around a drum brake spindle.
As far as the rear suspension goes. It's a matter of " Somethings got to give. If you're using 97-04 mustang 5.75 B.S. rim. Either you need to move the leaf spring, use a spacer, or use a B body axle housing, and axles. The other option is going to a coil over 4 link.
I figure there are two lists that people will seek for future reference. The reasons could be budget, engineering, etc...The " What combination allowed installation of the mustang rim with a minimum of additional pieces." ( This will hopefully, and eventually weed out the culprit Ie; maybe the bigger 11/16 style tie rod end is the cause. ) Than there is the " custom modified list. " Maybe someone purchased a drum brake car, and wants options on how to achieve the quickest route between point A, and B installation, or they are converting to BIG bolt pattern. While another person wants the performance of say, a Wilwood, SSBC, or Viper conversion kit.
I've read these forum posts. There is a consistent, and reliable group of people who always seem to volunteer tec, to the best of their ability. Yet in the photo gallery here, and on google, I've come to the conclusion that these half a dozen fellas either own 20 cars a piece that are all kick ***, or some people want to keep things secret. The only problem with secrets in this hobby is, it leads to a low supply of goods. You can go to the grocery store, and buy Ford, or G.M. parts, yet we always have to rely on ingenuity to get results. So those guys are always 1 step ahead. That's why combination lists are important.
When ever this is brought up here, it'll get foggy because people will add additional wheels to the mix, outside of the 17 x 8 - 5.75 Ford rim. I can understand Ie; rear wheels of wider sizes. When torque thrusts, O.E.M. inc. wheels, and Detroit wheels get thrown in, the technical value of "how to make a Bullitt rim fit", becomes confounded. No offense intended, but that's just my opinion.
 
I think when it comes to tie rod interference, the common denominator seems to be the "bullit" style wheel. As I mentioned in the pm, I've used two different style mustang rims, same dimensions as you listed, and I haven't any issues with tie rod clearance. This was with two suspension combos, first was a big bolt pattern disc setup from a`75 dart on a `70 340 K frame. The second was with drum brake spindles and ARE's viper brake conversion and big tie rod ends. Both setups used non-adjustable tubular uppers from Magnumforce.
I don't recall reading of anyone having problems with non-bullit wheels with the same dimensions.
I would be looking at the inside profile of the bullits, both from ford and from the aftermarket, as that (to me at least) seems to be the likely source of fitment problems.
 

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8.8 explorer rear, full width w/new spring perches. 11 3/4" B rotors, 73 up UCA's and spindles, stock 65 tie rods. Turned down the O.D. on the rotor hub by about .1250 and hogged out the rim center with a hole saw.
 

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Thanks 65cuda360, now we are getting a recipe with numbers fro cutting, and options for how to cut, and also optional rear housings. nice. Now I'm curious if 8.8's ever came with disc brakes. your first gen look sweet by the way.
Pauly v100, thanks for the wheel info, you've obviously R & D'd on 2 separate styles of mustang rims, and a plethora of different suspension options without running into the spacer necessity issue. I think it's very cool how you chose a different route than the bullitt.
You might be right about the rim, I kind of recall Ansen, and another company both made aluminum slots back in the 80's, but because one had a raised mounting pad it needed a 3/8 spacer, or the bleed fitting on the caliper would tear the inside of the rim up. Just because 2 rims have the same dimensions, you'd think fitment was set in stone, but not always, as we are discovering.
 
Look close at the rear rim. The 8.8 is disc, 3.73, L.S. diff. and BBP. Front and rear bolt pattern are same.
 
The wheels I'm using are the same size as the pre 03 17x 8 bullitt wheel, thay have 5.72 back spacing. In this case the center cap can be used, or the nice aluminum ones the Reilly Motorsports sells. Note : I just threw the UCA on, they are not adjusted, and this side has serious negative camber. Although that might be good to know for someone who intends to go nuts on camber. Also, Wracker told me not to worry about alignment right now, but I wanted something to look at on coffee break. so the torsion bars are low.

[ame]http://youtu.be/1hfHtwtZEvQ[/ame]
 

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Keep an eye out for the 05+ 18" stuff. Closer to bolt on but plan on 9" wide all around.
 
When I got my car from seymour_scamp it already had Bullitt rims on it. I know for sure it has longer wheel studs in the front. The rims have spacers. Im trying to figure out how to get my center caps to fit on the front. Any help will be greatly appreciated to make them fit.
IMG956981.jpg
 
Maybe, and I mean maybe, what we should be looking at is the other components. What rotors ?, what spindles ? I'm just guessing, but since you have a fly window, this car is what ? a 1969 ? How was it converted to the big bolt pattern. That said, you may be stuck.
I only avoided the rims your running because of budget, and time constraints. The budget part is - a few of the people on the forum mentioned the bullitt rim was too shallow to accept the factory caps with out spacers, or the need to change rotors to an AR engineering viper set up, or Wilwood. AR Engineering emailed me, and told me their custom caps would fit the bullitt rim, but again only with wheel spacers. They told me, 3/4", but a lot of the fellas here are using 3/8". I'm sure they're safe, some auto cross people are using them too. Reilly MotorSports sells the caps. If you need to contact them, don't be afraid, they're nice people. https://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/help.php?section=contactus&mode=update
 
One possibility might be, and once again I stress mighty be, a Mr gasket flat end chrome dust cap. I think the Chrysler cap measures 1.78", and the Mr Gasket is 1.79. Maybe you could take a Dremel cutting disc make a small relief, and than pop it on. It's not a great idea though, if your putting you bearing at risk. Plus chrome plating like that always rusts.
 
garyfish340 said:
One possibility might be, and once again I stress mighty be, a Mr gasket flat end chrome dust cap. I think the Chrysler cap measures 1.78", and the Mr Gasket is 1.79. Maybe you could take a Dremel cutting disc make a small relief, and than pop it on. It's not a great idea though, if your putting you bearing at risk. Plus chrome plating like that always rusts.
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Don't waste your money on it... like I did!
 
Quote from 360Scamp "When I got my car from seymour_scamp it already had Bullitt rims on it. I know for sure it has longer wheel studs in the front. The rims have spacers. Im trying to figure out how to get my center caps to fit on the front. Any help will be greatly appreciated to make them fit."

Well I tried the mach 1 rim, and it fit, and Pauly v. 100 tried a few of the other rims, and they all fit okay. So just by Pauly v.'s experience, ( and I've been reading his posts awhile now ), I'd have to agree with him. Bullitt rims have a few quirks, that the others don't. Which is one reason I went another route.
If you plan to drive serious, I know that there is a few brake set up that people have reported, will fix the wheel spacer/cap issue. If not, sadly, replacing the wheels might be the most affordable fix. If you find an answer, or another work-around please write it in this post. So we can collect the fixes in one place.
Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. We had the good old fashion type. We cooked a huge feast fit for a tribe. Invited all the neighbors over, dined, and partied with them. Than we murdered them, and took their land away. Good ole fashion traditional kind.
 
garyfish340 said:
Quote from 360Scamp "When I got my car from seymour_scamp it already had Bullitt rims on it. I know for sure it has longer wheel studs in the front. The rims have spacers. Im trying to figure out how to get my center caps to fit on the front. Any help will be greatly appreciated to make them fit."

Well I tried the mach 1 rim, and it fit, and Pauly v. 100 tried a few of the other rims, and they all fit okay. So just by Pauly v.'s experience, ( and I've been reading his posts awhile now ), I'd have to agree with him. Bullitt rims have a few quirks, that the others don't. Which is one reason I went another route.
If you plan to drive serious, I know that there is a few brake set up that people have reported, will fix the wheel spacer/cap issue. If not, sadly, replacing the wheels might be the most affordable fix. If you find an answer, or another work-around please write it in this post. So we can collect the fixes in one place.
Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. We had the good old fashion type. We cooked a huge feast fit for a tribe. Invited all the neighbors over, dined, and partied with them. Than we murdered them, and took their land away. Good ole fashion traditional kind.[/QUOTE

Touche!
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