A-230 to A-833 Swap

[BlueDream]

What all is needed to swap out my 3 speed for a 4 speed? I found a non-OD A-833 on craigslist that I might buy if it's a short tail shaft trans. He's going to get me the measurements later today. I'm already running a dual pattern bellhousing with my A-230 so bolting up an A-833 shouldn't be a problem as long as it's not an OD trans, right? I also have a Hurst pistol grip shifter in the car already which I'd keep. What else would I need?

 

[sireland67]

Make sure the bell housing opening matches bearing retainer ID on the trans.
4.30 vs 4.84.
I think the drive shaft length may need changed.
It should bolt right together.

 

[66fs]

I think the driveshaft should be good to go, but double check it. Measure from the trans mount to the end of the rear housing. Also check the yoke size as the A-833 4 speed might have the large spline.

 

[sireland67]

The trans mount is in the same spot.
Good catch on the output yoke side.
The 833 usually takes a larger yoke to slide in the back of the trans.
Brewers transmission will have the info on their web site.

 

[BlueDream]

He got back to me with the measurements and It's a long tail shaft A-833. I definitely want to hold out for a short tail shaft A-Body unit so I passed on buying this one. I'll be using the money to finish building my 340. Now the question is how long will my A-230 last... 250k miles and it's never even had the side cover pulled, just fluid changes and a new tailshaft seal. Do you guys think it'll be ok behind a 340 for a year or two until I get a short tail shaft 833?

 

[sireland67]

It was the stock trans behind a 340.
4-speeds and auto were optional.
I at least would freshen it it up.
Seals and bearings are fairly inexpensive.
Brewers can sell you a complete kit
They are easy to rebuild.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I spent 5 years in a tranny rebuilding shop. I was always surprised at the beefiness of the A-230, Stay away from sticky tires,sticky clutches,high-rpm launches, and you should be fine.With a stockish cam you might not even miss the 4 speed.And,keep good oil in it.
I ran the OD box for a while, behind a torquey 360; basically a 3+1.

 

[alpha13]

I was wanting to do this same swap. Couldn't you just get the drive shaft shortened and then fabricate a bracket for the shifter so it stays in the correct position. I couldn't find a short shaft tranny and just considered doing some fab. A body stuff is rare around where I live.

 

[66fs]

I was wanting to do this same swap. Couldn't you just get the drive shaft shortened and then fabricate a bracket for the shifter so it stays in the correct position. I couldn't find a short shaft tranny and just considered doing some fab. A body stuff is rare around where I live.

You can do anything, It is only how much special stuff do you want to do and how much it costs. If you make a shifter adapter bracket, will the linkage work? Theoretically it should, if you get the bracket in the same place as the original.

 

[alpha13]

You can do anything, It is only how much special stuff do you want to do and how much it costs. If you make a shifter adapter bracket, will the linkage work? Theoretically it should, if you get the bracket in the same place as the original.

Well any fabrication should be measured twice cut once. I thought about using a 1/4 steel plate and making a bracket. I suppose at this point it's just just talk, but I'm sure someone has done it at one point or another. Plate steel can't cost too much to keep one busy for a weekend haha. I suppose you would have to have a tranny to do some measuring with though....:banghead:

 

[BlueDream]

I was wanting to do this same swap. Couldn't you just get the drive shaft shortened and then fabricate a bracket for the shifter so it stays in the correct position. I couldn't find a short shaft tranny and just considered doing some fab. A body stuff is rare around where I live.

It would be much easier to just get an A-Body trans to start with. I'm sure it's been done but if you change shifter location you'd need new shift rods. Then comes the debacle of if you want to weld on a 40+ year old transmission that someone with a B-Body or E-Body would pay good money for. I've seen A-Body short shaft transmissions on Craigslist here for about $400-$500 and overdrive units for bout $150-$200. The prices for long tail shaft A-833's aren't drastically different so I think it's better just to wait it out until an A-Body trans pops up for sale.

 

[JoesEdge]

I'm doing this exact same thing. I'm going from an A230 to a A833.

I bought a used A833 and extra bell housing for 300 bucks from a guy in San Clemente, CA. Just 45 min away from me. Then I had it rebuilt for about 640 bucks (labor and parts). Now I'm piecing together the linkages, shifter, and stuff.

My advice, just buy a rebuilt transmission from either Passons or Brewers with pretty much everything you need and be done with it. Yes, it will hurt your wallet tremendously up front but it will save you time and headaches. Been there, done that. If I had to do it again that's what I'd do.

I hear Passons builds some stout overdrive trans. They strengthen them or something. I'm going to order my shifter from Brewers.

Keep in mind that you'll need these parts:

1. make sure your bell housing is drilled for both patterns (70's an up are, I believe)
2. slip yoke (match to your drive shaft u-joint and output splines of trans)
3. linkages, levers, and associated hardware (nuts, bushings, clips, etc)
4. shifter
5. shifter handle
6. shifter mounting plate
7. rebuilt transmission
8. transmission mount (in case yours is worn out)
9. gear oil

You're look at about 1700.00 bucks or so right there. That's just a "guestimate". I try not to calculate how much I spent because it will just give me anxiety. LOL

I "lucked" out with a close ratio gearbox so now I'm worried about having enough grunt in first gear to move off the line quick enough, especially since my B-body rear end has a 2.74 gear in it. That's something to keep in mind. I may put the 8 1/4 back in since it has 3.21 gears in it.

So...save the headaches and it it all from either Passons or Brewers. Saves time and hassle. I wish I did it that way to begin with. Up to you though.

 

[BlueDream]

After doing some research shouldn't the swap parts list consist of:

1. Trans
2. Shifter and rods
3. Driveshaft


Shouldn't everything else just transfer over? 10.5" clutch, 130 tooth flywheel, clutch fork, bellhousing, shifter handle (I've got a pistol grip), the little boot works with the new shifter. If I can get a good trans for $500 with the rods and a shifter there's no way I'd buy a Brewers kit if I didn't need a TON of parts. Auto to manual, yes go with a kit.

 

[dano]

After doing some research shouldn't the swap parts list consist of:

1. Trans
2. Shifter and rods
3. Driveshaft


Shouldn't everything else just transfer over? 10.5" clutch, 130 tooth flywheel, clutch fork, bellhousing, shifter handle (I've got a pistol grip), the little boot works with the new shifter. If I can get a good trans for $500 with the rods and a shifter there's no way I'd buy a Brewers kit if I didn't need a TON of parts. Auto to manual, yes go with a kit.

I think you'll need a different slip yoke. The 833 uses a 727 spline yoke and the 230 uses a 904 spline yoke. This is what my dad found when he swapped a 230 for a 833. But, you'd better verify.

 

[66fs]

I think you'll need a different slip yoke. The 833 uses a 727 spline yoke and the 230 uses a 904 spline yoke. This is what my dad found when he swapped a 230 for a 833. But, you'd better verify.

The A833 or the O/D can come with either the small yoke or the large one.

 

[JoesEdge]

Yup...might need the slip yoke. That's why I mentioned it in my list. ;) Oh, and be wary of the u-joint size too!

 

[JoesEdge]

After doing some research shouldn't the swap parts list consist of:

1. Trans
2. Shifter and rods
3. Driveshaft


Shouldn't everything else just transfer over? 10.5" clutch, 130 tooth flywheel, clutch fork, bellhousing, shifter handle (I've got a pistol grip), the little boot works with the new shifter. If I can get a good trans for $500 with the rods and a shifter there's no way I'd buy a Brewers kit if I didn't need a TON of parts. Auto to manual, yes go with a kit.

If you can find a good trans, rods, levers, and shifter for that much...then buy 2 of everything!! You'll make some money reselling it. Hell...I'll buy a set off you! LOL

Right now I need a shifter, shifter plate, all attaching hardware, and shifter handle. I have a used slip yoke but I may buy a new one since it's got some cancer. If anyone has that stuff in good condition, hit me up.

But yes, the bell housing should work (if it's also drilled with a 4 speed pattern). Therefore, your clutch will be fine as well as the clutch arm, throw out bearing, etc. That's if you reuse those pieces. Hidden costs could be resurfacing the flywheel if you do replace the clutch.

 

[BlueDream]

If you can find a good trans, rods, levers, and shifter for that much...then buy 2 of everything!! You'll make some money reselling it. Hell...I'll buy a set off you! LOL

Right now I need a shifter, shifter plate, all attaching hardware, and shifter handle. I have a used slip yoke but I may buy a new one since it's got some cancer. If anyone has that stuff in good condition, hit me up.

But yes, the bell housing should work (if it's also drilled with a 4 speed pattern). Therefore, your clutch will be fine as well as the clutch arm, throw out bearing, etc. That's if you reuse those pieces. Hidden costs could be resurfacing the flywheel if you do replace the clutch.

The trans I was looking at buying recently was $800. Freshly rebuilt and hasn't been installed yet. and it included the Bellhousing, rods, shifter, and some ither stuff I can't remember. The deal breaker was that it was a B-Body trans. But I have seen A-Body units in the $500 range with the rods and shifter. I think the lowest I've ever seen was $300 for just a bare transmission with no extras. I'm using the money I would have put into an A-833 to fund finishing my 340. I'm going to get a billet flywheel since Im afraid my other one is going to cut my foot off behind a 340.

 

[alpha13]

It would be much easier to just get an A-Body trans to start with. I'm sure it's been done but if you change shifter location you'd need new shift rods. Then comes the debacle of if you want to weld on a 40+ year old transmission that someone with a B-Body or E-Body would pay good money for. I've seen A-Body short shaft transmissions on Craigslist here for about $400-$500 and overdrive units for bout $150-$200. The prices for long tail shaft A-833's aren't drastically different so I think it's better just to wait it out until an A-Body trans pops up for sale.

Who is talking about welding on the trans?!? Build a bracket and mount it on the rear mounting position. And you could make custom shift rods and whatnot and make it a short throw.

 

[alpha13]

The trans I was looking at buying recently was $800. Freshly rebuilt and hasn't been installed yet. and it included the Bellhousing, rods, shifter, and some ither stuff I can't remember. The deal breaker was that it was a B-Body trans. But I have seen A-Body units in the $500 range with the rods and shifter. I think the lowest I've ever seen was $300 for just a bare transmission with no extras. I'm using the money I would have put into an A-833 to fund finishing my 340. I'm going to get a billet flywheel since Im afraid my other one is going to cut my foot off behind a 340.

I'm glad your finding them cheap. I can't find a single A833 under $700 bare.

 

[BlueDream]

I'm glad your finding them cheap. I can't find a single A833 under $700 bare.

I did some searching on Craigslist and someone has two A-Body non-OD A-833's for $400 each. Deals are out there if you look for them. You can definitely find one under $700 somewhere.