A-body 4-speed z-bar and TTI headers

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J

JimK

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I have a question for those of you who have small block A-bodies that have installed TTI headers and had to modify your z-bars to fit. Can you please tell me what you did to gain clearance? It seems the arm of the z-bar that the clutch adjustment rod attaches to needs to be shortened but I can't tell how much from looking at it under the car. If you shortened the arm on your z-bar, how much did you take out of it? Thanks in advance.
 
I`ve heard some guys bending the arm around to work, but mine had another tab with hole sticking out the back. I removed this tab, still hit, so I carefully ground welds off tab and repositioned close to factory position as possible, tacked, reinstalled completely, made sure everything cleared, took back out, then welded, reinstalled. Then later pulled and added a heat shield. good luck.
 
First, do not shorten the arm. That will increase pedal pressure and shorten the amount of movement of the clutch fork, which might result in you not being able to disengage the clutch. Don't ask how I found out about that.
Can you grind off some of the front of the arm? I was able to do that which helped with clearance on my TTIs.
I just ended up switching to a hydraulic set up and like it better than the mechanical linkage.
 
I moved mine towards the drivers side of the tube. The biggest problem is it swings in a decreasing pie shaped area. Torsion bar on one side, pipes on the other.

For all the money tti cost, you'd think they would be designed better.

One bar in that moparts thread is a BB a-body z bar and not really right for a SB car.
 
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