[WANTED] A body A833 4 Speed transmission
- Thread starter SRT_DSTRHOLC
- Start date
-
- Status
64 for ball & trunion. Have drive shaft, slant six bell.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
Not sure if the driveshaft would be the correct length. What wheel base is the setup for?
111" W/B
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 26,608
- Reaction score
- 13,849
The A833 comes in two divisions, 1:1 outputs, and overdrives.
AFAIK, all of them are available in small and large mainshafts.
As for those mainshaft flavors; one is for the slanty's and the other is for V8s. and
The Direct-A833 comes in three ratios, with cast or alloy tails, plus two kinds of synchronizers.
The overdrives come in two flavors, again; the Slanty mainshaft and the V8, and alloy or cast boxes, then you get into short and long tails.
And all that is before we get into BigBlock, coarse spline units
The point is, that from what you asked , you might get 16 to 20, wrong-for-you transmissions, and so, as others have said, you might want to be more specific.
If you do not have a slanty, then we can rule out all the small mainshafts.
If you do not require a racing trans, we can rule out the coarse-splines.
If you do not need overdrive, we can rule a couple more out.
If you do not need a specific starter gear, AND you need a short tail, then we're down to three.
If you do not need a close-ratio, then down to two.
If you do not have a big cam, then down to one. The standard 2.66 low, but it only comes with a cast-iron box.
If you want an alloy box, you'll need to beg one from somebody, and then you'll probably want to modify the front cluster-pin hole. Or, you can buy a HD alloy box from Passon Performance.
If you need reliability, you may wish to swap out the brass forks for steel ones.
The standard A833 comes with a 4.35" retainer. But there are about 4 or more bellhousings, that can be installed into an A-body so then you need one with a matching hole, and where the inner pivot ball bolts on, has to match the chassis. and, the speed-O has to match what the car has. Thankfully, any Mopar 4-Speed shifter will bolt on...... but there's good ones and Not so good ones.
If you need to run a low-rpm on the hiway, with a 4.30 type-gear, then you kindof need a GearVendor overdrive.
If you are planning on a 318/273, then you'd like my Commando/GVod combo, with gear-splitting capability. Bigger engines have inherently more torque and they can pull a 3.55 easy enough. The smaller the cam, or the more cylinder pressure they make, the less gear they need; so a stout 360 with a small cam, may be ok with 2.94s. In other words, an overdrive is not that attractive any more.
If you need EVERYTHING, like a kit, for a 67 to 72, with a 10.5 clutch, I got you covered no matter what you need or want; but I ain't giving it away.
AFAIK, all of them are available in small and large mainshafts.
As for those mainshaft flavors; one is for the slanty's and the other is for V8s. and
The Direct-A833 comes in three ratios, with cast or alloy tails, plus two kinds of synchronizers.
The overdrives come in two flavors, again; the Slanty mainshaft and the V8, and alloy or cast boxes, then you get into short and long tails.
And all that is before we get into BigBlock, coarse spline units
The point is, that from what you asked , you might get 16 to 20, wrong-for-you transmissions, and so, as others have said, you might want to be more specific.
If you do not have a slanty, then we can rule out all the small mainshafts.
If you do not require a racing trans, we can rule out the coarse-splines.
If you do not need overdrive, we can rule a couple more out.
If you do not need a specific starter gear, AND you need a short tail, then we're down to three.
If you do not need a close-ratio, then down to two.
If you do not have a big cam, then down to one. The standard 2.66 low, but it only comes with a cast-iron box.
If you want an alloy box, you'll need to beg one from somebody, and then you'll probably want to modify the front cluster-pin hole. Or, you can buy a HD alloy box from Passon Performance.
If you need reliability, you may wish to swap out the brass forks for steel ones.
The standard A833 comes with a 4.35" retainer. But there are about 4 or more bellhousings, that can be installed into an A-body so then you need one with a matching hole, and where the inner pivot ball bolts on, has to match the chassis. and, the speed-O has to match what the car has. Thankfully, any Mopar 4-Speed shifter will bolt on...... but there's good ones and Not so good ones.
If you need to run a low-rpm on the hiway, with a 4.30 type-gear, then you kindof need a GearVendor overdrive.
If you are planning on a 318/273, then you'd like my Commando/GVod combo, with gear-splitting capability. Bigger engines have inherently more torque and they can pull a 3.55 easy enough. The smaller the cam, or the more cylinder pressure they make, the less gear they need; so a stout 360 with a small cam, may be ok with 2.94s. In other words, an overdrive is not that attractive any more.
If you need EVERYTHING, like a kit, for a 67 to 72, with a 10.5 clutch, I got you covered no matter what you need or want; but I ain't giving it away.
Last edited:
grampscamp
Well-Known Member
I have a '67 in Salem Oregon
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 26,608
- Reaction score
- 13,849
As for the overdrive box and power;
I put 330 hp into it for a about 4 years, and then 430 for another one.
The ONLY weak link in that box is the teeny tiny M/S overdrive gear, which for me I broke two of them before I finally swapped to the Commando.
If I was to ever use that box again, I would put an interlock on that od-gear, to remind me to back off the throttle. After the first one exploded, I bought spare transmissions.
As for the B&T; on the street, it should be, fine if you have it.
I think if anything, the 7260 joint at the back is the first failure point, and the thinwall driveshaft is probably the second . and of course, if there's still a 7.25 back there, and no posi; that's just a ticking time-bomb.
BTW;
@toolmanmike says 66 was the first year of the slip yokes.
I put 330 hp into it for a about 4 years, and then 430 for another one.
The ONLY weak link in that box is the teeny tiny M/S overdrive gear, which for me I broke two of them before I finally swapped to the Commando.
If I was to ever use that box again, I would put an interlock on that od-gear, to remind me to back off the throttle. After the first one exploded, I bought spare transmissions.
As for the B&T; on the street, it should be, fine if you have it.
I think if anything, the 7260 joint at the back is the first failure point, and the thinwall driveshaft is probably the second . and of course, if there's still a 7.25 back there, and no posi; that's just a ticking time-bomb.
BTW;
@toolmanmike says 66 was the first year of the slip yokes.
Last edited:
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
I will pass. Shipping will be too much.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
Thank you, but I will hold off for shipping reasons
There's a Mopar swap meet/car show coming up in Sacramento, CA
I'm sure you'll find what you need there. October 4th.
capitalcitymopars.com for more information
I'm sure you'll find what you need there. October 4th.
capitalcitymopars.com for more information
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
thanks for the heads up
- Status
-
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
