A budget repair to my 67 a/c control switch

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Sedanman

67-9 Valiant specialist
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I had a hard time finding the correct switch with the pin terminal connectors. The only problem with mine was all of the vacume pins had broke off so I decided to experiment. I hope this helps someone out there. I hit a swap meet and found a few 80's-90's rwd a/c switches for $5-$10 each. The a/c vacume pin cluster on the switch was exactly the same arrangement up to 97 in dodge vans. I took a hack saw and shaved off what I was going to glue to the old switch with super glue. Then I took a file and made both the piece I shaved off and where the pins had broken off of mine square so they would mate up when I glued them together. I have also included pics of what the switches look like inside. I did have to notch 1 corner just like the original was. I also used a paper clip I hit with the bench grinder to the same size of the vacume holes to make sure the holes were lined up in the old switch when I was done. I did have 1 hiccup and should have made sure the piece was lined up better for the retainer clip to hold the vacume hole in place before I glued it but it still clips into place. I will know if it is operable once I start getting my car back together to test it. If you have seen my resto thread for my 67 valiant you will see what I mean :). Enjoy :cheers:
 

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I was going to try and pop the rear cover off of mine but decided it was cheaper and less aggravation this way and the switches are plentiful in vans up to 97 in junk yards still.
 
How about using metal tubing about the size of a ballpoint pen ink tube (even a metal ink tube) cut down to about 1/8" longer than needed. While holding with needle nose pliers, heat them with a torch and when hot, press them into the fitting requIring repair. The plastic should melt-weld to the metal tube and you have a strong repair.

GLWTR!
 
The same port arrangement suggests the rubber vacuum manifold from the donor works also.
Good job :)
 
That is wayyyyyyyyyyy more work than I had to do or wanted to do,but what ever you can do to fix the problem to not have to spend $60 and up for a new switch is a good thing.
 
if you look at the non vacume pins,location and style you will see that the older switches are different than the superceeded modern switches. The broke off pins were the only thing wrong with my switch.
 
1 other thing,if you look at the piece I cut off of the other switch you will see that the holes are super tiny (even smaller than the thickness of a paper clip) which may make a big difference if you use larger ID tubing. just a thought
 
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