A/C to no A/C

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Snake

Mopar Nut
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71 Satelitte 318 has A/C. It has power steering also witch I plan on keeping..I want to go without the A/C, SO what do i need to change over.This is new to me so any help will go a long way.
 
easy route just pull off the compressor and remove all the external bits. if going deeper you will need a non a/c heater box and have the holes in the firewall filled. when you remove the compressor you may need new pulleys depending on how the belts run.
 
This is how it is set up with out the compressor ,just mocking things up,as you can see the alt has no wear to go
Wear my wifes hand is ,is wear the compressor pulley was
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Does the alt line up with the inner groves on the crank pully? If it does just change the water pump pully and buy a none a/c belt I have pullys and brackets if you need them
 
Krazykuda will the P/S pump brackets work,or do i need them as well.

No, the stock P/S brackets should work...

we converted the kid's 71 318 from A/C to non A/C...

the factory A/C set-up used two belts, where the non A/C only had a single belt, so you want to run a single groove alt pulley for everything to line up properly and not side load the belts...
 
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Why is this seem so crazy? Cuz its B body? With dads (non ac now) with ps. We simply got belts Non ac.
Alternator pulleys n brackets should be the same.
My 0.02
 
No, the stock P/S brackets should work...

we converted the kid's 71 318 from A/C to non A/C...

the factory A/C set-up used two belts, where the non A/C only had a single belt, so you want to run a single groove alt pulley for everything to line up properly and not side load the belts...
You just got me lost,witch is not hard to do now sorry.My old 74 Duster had 2 belts,1 for P/S witch ran of the crank pulley,and the second belt ran water pump + alt off the crank.2 grove pulley what am i missing.
 
If you don't mind running that large pulley on the crank, just get a smaller belt to run the alt. If you can find a small block with a complete set of pulleys you can replicate the setup from the Duster.
 
If you don't mind running that large pulley on the crank, just get a smaller belt to run the alt. If you can find a small block with a complete set of pulleys you can replicate the setup from the Duster.
Thats the plan tomorrow there is a yard not to far from me.
 
two belts if it has PS, like said. I say AC is for pussy's sweat and fresh air is healthy! I have done this more than a few times. but parts can be hard to find now days. but I would get the non air heater box, and change firewall for the new hose conncections. I would just keep the 4 groove crank pulley.
 
two belts if it has PS, like said. I say AC is for pussy's sweat and fresh air is healthy! I have done this more than a few times. but parts can be hard to find now days. but I would get the non air heater box, and change firewall for the new hose conncections. I would just keep the 4 groove crank pulley.

Woah there; one project at a time! We're still talking about it being ok to purchase a smaller belt and reuse the existing pulley on the crank. You want to talk about replacing a heater box and the firewall in the same thread.... that's worth at least 2 if not 3 (a separate thread about heater hoses) threads.
 
You just got me lost,witch is not hard to do now sorry.My old 74 Duster had 2 belts,1 for P/S witch ran of the crank pulley,and the second belt ran water pump + alt off the crank.2 grove pulley what am i missing.

DSC01270 B.JPG


DSC01274 B.JPG
 
Thanks Karl that pic is what i want looks like my 74.

I can get more angles if you need them...

My old pictures of the pulley alignment on the engine stand are on a different hard drive.... :BangHead:

But I can get some new ones in the car, or try to find some of the older ones...
 
Thanks Karl that pic is what i want looks like my 74.

The set-up is what I posted links for earlier in the thread...

I like to try to get them as close to centered to each other as possible... That way one side of the belt is not biased and taking up most of the wear....

Going with the single pulley alternator and water pump pulley with the proper alternator mounting bracket is key...

We also changed the crank pulley to a double groove because the bigger crank pulley has that heavy rubber inside it also, by using the double groove crank pulley doesn't have all of the rubber and is much lighter... Lightening the rotating assembly allows it to rev faster...
 
Well the trip to the yard turned out bad,He had no complete cars left.So we went seachen with him in his barns.Found upper and lower pulleys for 318 but they wear from 1969,my bad i forgot about the different years, dang it. so back again another day.But it was cool seeing him and his yard so it was ok.Why do i make things tough.
 
If this was a running driving car and you simply removed ac compressor and/or idler. All u need is a shorter belt.
 
If this was a running driving car and you simply removed ac compressor and/or idler. All u need is a shorter belt.
Sorry steve your wrong,yes it was running when i got her.Did you not see the pics i posted the alternator had no wear to drive off.
 
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The set-up is what I posted links for earlier in the thread...

I like to try to get them as close to centered to each other as possible... That way one side of the belt is not biased and taking up most of the wear....

Going with the single pulley alternator and water pump pulley with the proper alternator mounting bracket is key...

We also changed the crank pulley to a double groove because the bigger crank pulley has that heavy rubber inside it also, by using the double groove crank pulley doesn't have all of the rubber and is much lighter... Lightening the rotating assembly allows it to rev faster...


I know this post is old, but I am looking to run the correct pulleys like you have shown in the photos, could you tell my the belt part numbers or sizes that you are using? Thanks.
 
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