a833 isssue?

[HANG TEN]

Can the A833 overdrive cause a problem in the speedometer?
My speedo gets noisy as the speed increases, worse on colder mornings, and the accuracy goes way off as the noise increases. I've put a new cable in and switched out the speedo with another (used) one. Pretty much the same result.
Anyone have any suggestions? Hate to go all winter with the thing disconnected

 

[sireland67]

Can the A833 overdrive cause a problem in the speedometer?
My speedo gets noisy as the speed increases, worse on colder mornings, and the accuracy goes way off as the noise increases. I've put a new cable in and switched out the speedo with another (used) one. Pretty much the same result.
Anyone have any suggestions? Hate to go all winter with the thing disconnected

The gear in the trans is the same as any 833, 904 or 727.
My guess is either one tooth is stripped off the plastic gear on the trans, or you have two speedometer units that need a good cleaning.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Yeah, the head unit might need greasing. But Im leaning on the cable having a kink in it or a too-tight-radius bend somewhere.Or both.The jumpy needle is often caused by the cable getting bound up in the sheath, and then letting go.Its acting like a torsion spring. The jumpy needle can also be caused by the square drive at the trans end, slipping in the plastic speedo gear.The dash end is brass so Ive not seen a problem there. The noise is often an indicator of the sticking cable syndrome. It can really scream. I would recheck the cable routing first and if its all good, I would power up the cable with a variable-speed drill. As you are doing this,you could move the assy around in different drive positions, etc.That would rule out the drive pinion.If its still jumpy, I would stretch the cable out as straight as possible,towards the front of the car across the radiator, and drive it from there.If its still jumpy I would remove the cable to the workbench and drive it from there. You would need to put a little resistance on the dash end by pinching it with your fingers. Use a slow speed on the drill. You will be trying to prove the non-jumpyness as the cable spins.Try it with multiple bends similar to how it was installed. If the cable is good you will have to pull the cluster and inspect the gearbox of the head-unit.Over the years they sometimes develop some play in the suspension bearings which I have successfully adjusted out. And then a careful cleaning and you should be good to go. I have never yet seen this jumpyness caused by the speedometer gear,( you know about clocking the gear during installation,right).And since the cable is "new" I wouldnt usually suspect it. But if I told you it was the head unit, at first, and it wasnt; then you woulda bin pissed at me, cause removing the cluster is a pain.Its a lot easier if you drop the column to the bottom of the mounting-studs.You will have to loosen the firewall plate as well and absolutely disconnect the battery before you start. Oh, also IIRC the cable is driven in reverse, that is CCW. All testing must be done with the cable rotating in the correct direction. Enjoy!

 

[TrailBeast]

Yeah, the head unit might need greasing. But Im leaning on the cable having a kink in it or a too-tight-radius bend somewhere.Or both.The jumpy needle is often caused by the cable getting bound up in the sheath, and then letting go.Its acting like a torsion spring. The jumpy needle can also be caused by the square drive at the trans end, slipping in the plastic speedo gear.The dash end is brass so Ive not seen a problem there. The noise is often an indicator of the sticking cable syndrome. It can really scream. I would recheck the cable routing first and if its all good, I would power up the cable with a variable-speed drill. As you are doing this,you could move the assy around in different drive positions, etc.That would rule out the drive pinion.If its still jumpy, I would stretch the cable out as straight as possible,towards the front of the car across the radiator, and drive it from there.If its still jumpy I would remove the cable to the workbench and drive it from there. You would need to put a little resistance on the dash end by pinching it with your fingers. Use a slow speed on the drill. You will be trying to prove the non-jumpyness as the cable spins.Try it with multiple bends similar to how it was installed. If the cable is good you will have to pull the cluster and inspect the gearbox of the head-unit.Over the years they sometimes develop some play in the suspension bearings which I have successfully adjusted out. And then a careful cleaning and you should be good to go. I have never yet seen this jumpyness caused by the speedometer gear,( you know about clocking the gear during installation,right).And since the cable is "new" I wouldnt usually suspect it. But if I told you it was the head unit, at first, and it wasnt; then you woulda bin pissed at me, cause removing the cluster is a pain.Its a lot easier if you drop the column to the bottom of the mounting-studs.You will have to loosen the firewall plate as well and absolutely disconnect the battery before you start. Oh, also IIRC the cable is driven in reverse, that is CCW. All testing must be done with the cable rotating in the correct direction. Enjoy!

That about covers it, and that is correct about the cable running clockwise (coming out of the trans it does)
Nice explanation AJ.

WhenI first got my car everything would be fine and then all of a sudden the cable would scream like a banshee.
It would scare the hell out of ya every time.