A836? Trans ID help needed

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RidingBean

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I received a disassembled transmission in a box when I got my car. With the help of the members here, I tracked down the numbers I need to identify it, but may have run into a wall. The ID plate shows PP836(?)5345. I know it is a 1976 unit, but I can't find anything on any transmission designated 836. It appears that someone may have taken a grinder to the stamp plate at some time, so I can't be sure if I am interpreting that as a 6, or if part of the 3 is missing. Also, there doesn't appear to be any trace of a sequence number on there. I have included photos so those of you with more knowledge may be able to let me know what I have so I can start rebuilding it.
 

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Well its plainly an F-body O/D unit. Probably a slanty. There seems to several other sets of digets on there. Do you know how to take a pencil rubbing? I think I see the faint remains of a VIN number, and above that perhaps a rebuilders no. Try the rubbing and see what comes up
It looks like an over-stamping. A repurposed box.
Except for the hard parts. the factory gasket kits and brass ring kits are a one-size fits all deal. The bearings can be matched up at a bearing supplier. The rear is a special order from the jobber and can be pricey. They are way cheaper at the dealer-go figure.The rear seal is one of 2 sizes and 2 styles; 4 items total;small/large,dust boot or not.The best ones are C/R; Chicago-Rawhide.
 
Thanks for the info. I am likely going to deal with Brewer's to get the parts to rebuild it. Looks like there is quite a bit of information on here if I run into any problems. It should fit into my Abody without much fuss, correct?
 
correct, they came in A and F bodies. get a bellhousing with a 4.8" or 5.1" opening to fit the trans front bearing retainer
 
Yeah It's supposed to read "P833......" but obviously was mis stamped. Not uncommon. Good transmission. Almost as strong as the non OD 833 because of the cast iron case.
 
Tranny was built on Tuesday march 16 1976,the guy who built it at the plant was hecktor,mrmopartech

And he had two tacos a burrito and a coke at lunch. Then he boinked his old lady and went back to work.
 
And he had two tacos a burrito and a coke at lunch. Then he boinked his old lady and went back to work.

hahahaha...

Mr. RidingBean, Brewer's website is a great resource to find out exactly what you are dealing with, when you have a box of parts.

It is not difficult to ID what types of seals you need, what types of bearings, which synchronizer rings, bellhousing and other parts you may need just by studying the raised casting numbers on the parts, themselves.

There is a sequence to year and even a vin to match the car, but the year is all you need from the vin plate on the case.

The tailshaft has a few variations in casting number, but all of them except one use A 307 bearing. If you have a 27 spline yoke, it uses a 207.

The front bearing retainer should either use a 307 or larger 308 bearing, depending on which casting number it has. The side cover casting numbers do not matter, so much as the type of shifting levers it uses. There are two types for steel and one for aluminum that uses its own parts.

As long as the parts bolt together, you should be able to use everything you've got, from what I can see.

The one thing you want to look out for is the bellhousing index to the front bearing retainer and be sure that you obtain the correct bellhousing.

The bellhousings can be interchanged with some parts or machining, depending on which bearing retainer and bell you've got, but the easy way out is to just get the parts that have the same size circle to fit, because that is what you will need in the end, no matter how you get it all there.
 
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