Acid dip experience???

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Hoosier Dart

Hoosier Dart
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Anyone with experience on this? I'm doing my 68 Dart. After installing new front pans and frame connectors I want to have the shell professionally stripped. I haven't looked into cost but chemical stripping would seem likely to get into every nook and cranny and places where particle (media) just can't get to. Plus no metal distortion. Anyone aware of any problems like harmful residue, etc? I'm assuming the connectors will provide enough support for lifting the shell from the front and rear bumper bracket locations without bending the car. Also, what is the metal "bucket" called that the rear tail lights bolt into and are they available aftermarket? Please let me know what you know. Thanks.
 
The "buckets are more commonly reffered to as bezels.
In answer to your acid-dipping question--first, realize it'll remove EVERYTHING so I wouldn't put the frame connectors or anything in the car 'til after it's dipped. Second, finding a place that has a facility to do a whole car is going to be a chore--most shops don't have a tank that big. You'll also find neutralizing the stuff isn't going to be perfect. There are instances where some of the factory S/S cars had parts years later that were simply too corroded to still use & their restorers resorted to new parts. If it were me, I'd use 'glass where possible and perhaps look for a place that can do your doors & decklid & leave it at that.
 
Hoosier Dart said:
Anyone with experience on this? I'm doing my 68 Dart. After installing new front pans and frame connectors I want to have the shell professionally stripped. I haven't looked into cost but chemical stripping would seem likely to get into every nook and cranny and places where particle (media) just can't get to. Plus no metal distortion. Anyone aware of any problems like harmful residue, etc? I'm assuming the connectors will provide enough support for lifting the shell from the front and rear bumper bracket locations without bending the car. Also, what is the metal "bucket" called that the rear tail lights bolt into and are they available aftermarket? Please let me know what you know. Thanks.
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also remember when you dip something the stripper will get everywhere and i mean every where it will get into and strip places that when done you can't get to to paint so bare metel (not good)
 
Acid dipping is not a good Idea. Yes it removes everything, including things you don't want removed… Like seam sealer and factory rust proofing in areas you just can't get to on the car anymore, without cutting it open.

In short…. If you acid dip you also need it re-dipped in a corrosion resistant process (like the factory did) or it will quickly rust from the inside out.

This is one reason so many vintage race cars are gone forever.
 
I have had many parts dipped and saw 3 or 4 cars there that were dipped when I was at the facility, (in chicago suburbs). It is expensive, I think he said about $2400 for a whole car. It does a good job but it does get inside everything. I am not a pro by any means but I would find someone who can soda blast.
 
My motivation is paint/rust removal, not weight reduction. I can note any sealer beforehand in addition to the shop manual which shows a lot (all?) of the sealer locations. I've read in some cases where you're still finding soda residue with the paint gun. However, I've never done any of these and I'm relying on your experience. Whatever I do will be done in the Indianapolis area. After I remove the tail light and bezel I have a sheet metal structure(s) spot welded to the quarter. I will replace the quarters later and would like to replace this structure on one side. Acid is out. What can I reasonably expect to pay for media blasting? I want to get rid of the paint, rust, crud so I can find out what I'm working with.
 
Motopsycho said:
opps not talking about the same acid dipping lol
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Oh God….. I only did that once at 17. I told myself, never again. Not because it was bad but because it was so much fun (except the last 2 hours when i was trying to go to bed). It was something I could see myself doing all the time, and I didn't want that, so…. One time and I was done.
 
Actually I think getting rid of the rust is more in line with what I'm wanting to do so I've eliminated dipping. I've read about all sorts of blasting, soda, walnut, sand, plastic, etc. Never done any of them. I know some of the things I'm going to have to do. But I'm sure exposing all the metal will reveal things I don't even know about yet. I just want to do it right so I won't have any regrets. If soda blasting is the concensus then soda it will be. Any tips, tricks or things I should be aware of before I proceed?
 
Guy on BBD had his car dipped and Ecoated. He said it was in Indy also, $3000 I believe he posted.

I have had a handful of parts dipped with great results. Hoods and decklids especially....just got "swish" the primer around in it to cover the inner structure.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
If you acid dip your car it will quickly rust out. If that is what you want, acid dip it.
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Im not sure this is fair to say, wouldn't it depend on how the car is stored after? location (think Ariziona)? specific dipping process? How detailed you wanted to get when painting the cleaned car?

I've got a hood that was dipped sitting in my non-heated shop for years now and it has barely anything surface crud on it
 
Well, I'm now retired and going to build my 1st car. I've learned to benefit from the successes and failures of others if I can. I'm excited at the amount of info on FABO and I appreciate you all sharing your knowledge. No subject is going to get 100% responses on one side or the other but this issue seems heavily favored towards no dip. I'm going to take that advice. I'm still curious about two other things. First, opinions on pros and cons of various methods of media blast and "normal" costs. Second, I removed the pot metal tail light bezels, lenses and gaskets. What I'm left with is a square, sheet metal structure that is spotted to the quarter among other things. It may actually be constructed of more than one piece. It's what the light assys bolt to. When I replace the 1/4 I'd like to replace this section also. Where do I find a replacement? Am I looking for a donor? All pics I've seen of 1/4's are from the side so I can't tell if it is part of the new panel or not. Lastly, who makes a quality spot weld cutter and how long can I expect one to last? Thanks to all who have replied. You have been more help than you know.
 
Soda blasting won't realy get rid of rust, so it sounds like you'll need two types of blasting. If that's the case your best/easiest way out is taking it to a professional. They'll have the appropriate medium & equipment to do it right. I recently had the undeside, trunk, interior & engine bay soda blasted on a project & it was only about $200--- well worth it, IMO. From what it sounds like, I'd budget about $500 for the job and be happy with that....
 
spoke to a soda blasting shop here in Washington not to long ago. to blast the roof, doors, quarters and trunk lid they wanted $1000. i now understand why every time i drive by there the doors are open with no work going on.....
 
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