Adding fuse panel

[clv22p]

I am adding a 6 terminal fuse panel under the dash to my 1972 Demon. I am wanting to use it to be my switched 12v source for my fuel pump, electric fan(both of which are on a relay), gauges(oil psi, coolant temp, AFR, and tach), and line lock.

I just don't know where I should tap into for the source. It doesn't matter if I need to tap somewhere under the dash or under the hood. I just want to best place to do it. I have thought about using the blue wires that go to the ballast resistor.

 

[67Dart273]

If this is factory wiring you are playing with fire. You don't want to be putting extra loads on the ignition switch nor the bulkhead connector. My usual answer is "read the Mad article." This article points out several pitfalls of the wiring in these old girls.......problems with the bulkhead connector, ammeter and terminals, the ignition switch itself.

If you still have and use the ammeter, it will throw your readings "off" but one way is to tie to the starter relay stud. This will NOT help with the problems "through" the bulkhead connector

Click the link which has be rearranged by the "improved software"

Catalog

 

[clv22p]

It is all stock wiring and I am still using the ammeter. I have read the MAD article just havent ever gotten around to doing any of it. I know I need to.


I am running crackedback headlight relay harness though!

 

[67Dart273]

His harness should give you an idea. Doesn't it connect to the start relay? Or to alternator?

The big big problems are the high current connections.........

Bulkhead connector terminals especially for the ammeter

Ammeter connections.

Ignition switch and fuse panel connections. And the headlight switch and connections

And, when running "down the road" the alternator must charge through the bulkhead.

Ya' see, Ma knew, even "way back then" that this was a problem. Proof?

The 60-65A optional alternators had what is known as fleet/ police / taxi wiring, sort of an "early mad" bypass. That is the ammeter wires were run separately through the bulkhead

Also some of the barges around 71? started using external shunt ammeters. I can never remember when this was. A friend of mine bought a brand new Chev pickup in 70 It already HAD an external shunt ammeter, by then.

 

[clv22p]

It connects to the alternator. I know it is Ammeter bypass is something that need to do, but I still need to know where I should tap for this new fuse panel and it will help take the load off because currently all of the things are tapped in random places. Should run the panel off the alternator?

 

[Darthomas]

Add wire to end of fusible link and run it parallel to the existing input side of the ammeter through a hole in firewall to take the load off the bulkhead connector.
Then feed the wire to your auxiliary fuse box from the load side of the ammeter.
Make sure the nuts on the posts are good and tight.
This way, your meter will still function correctly.
Any taps straight to battery will cause meter to not read in center when load and charging are balanced, but read up into the charge region.