Adding studs for main caps

[gregcon]

Without wading into the while discussion, I'll fall back on my standard 'complaint' when it comes to machine work. It's not a 'given' that taking the block in to get it line honed is a good idea. It might be, or it might not.

It's kinda like bringing in a bunch of snakes to eat the mice....the mice are gone but now you have a snake problem.

I always get a bit freaky when it comes to changing the crank-cam distance. I also am not that wild about re-machining a 2.5000" hole to 2.5000". It's all compromises.....proceed with caution.

 

[383Scampman]

I'm curious , when adding studs on main caps do I need to have align bored ?
Or can I just add studs ?

align honed . studs have a straight shank as opposed to a tapered shank of a bolt . Some clearancing may be necessary in the cap ( maybe .005" or so ) depending on the diameter of the stud . Worth the effort , IMO, if ,at a later date you want to add NO2 .

 

[yellow rose]

Put your crankshaft in ! Torque the nuts to spec’s ! Spin the crankshaft over ! If the crankshaft spins freely !! You are good to go ! I’m the guy who doesn’t have money to fix things that are not broke ! A lot you guys, money is no object ! If I was that way I probably would have it all done also no question ask ! But I’m not ! I have built several motors all big blocks that I have put main studs in! Everyone of them the crankshaft spun freely ! And everyone of them are still running today ! To each his own ! You feel like you need or want to hone or bore do it ! It’s durn sure not going to hurt a thing ! And I would in a heartbeat if I put my crankshaft in and the crankshaft had a tight spot when I was turning it ! Just my opinion

It may turn but what happened to the oil clearance? It won’t be the same. Are the bores still round? Not likely.

 

[yellow rose]

Without wading into the while discussion, I'll fall back on my standard 'complaint' when it comes to machine work. It's not a 'given' that taking the block in to get it line honed is a good idea. It might be, or it might not.

It's kinda like bringing in a bunch of snakes to eat the mice....the mice are gone but now you have a snake problem.

I always get a bit freaky when it comes to changing the crank-cam distance. I also am not that wild about re-machining a 2.5000" hole to 2.5000". It's all compromises.....proceed with caution.

I agree. You can always add errors and compromise to any machining process. From the factory these things had tolerances all over the map.

I’ve never checked it (because the fix is worse than the disease) but I’m betting it you lined up 10 brand new OE blocks and measured cam to crank distance they’d all be different and Id bet good money that some wouldn’t be within blueprint specs.

I always line hone everything. If the crank needs a grind I size the bore to minimum (or a few tenths under), snap the bearing in there and measure the bore. Then I tell the crank grinder where I want the mains, even if it’s UNDER a minimum. I leave the hole a few tenths under in case the guy grinding the crank misses and gets the crank big. Then I can take a bit out and still be on the low side of the bearing bore and get my clearances.

I’m not into using different size bearings to get clearance. Drives me nuts.

If you aren’t using the line hone to set your clearance you are swapping bearings or you have to let it be what it be. I’d rather know what I have, with straight round holes then to save a bit of money.

 

[Rmoore]

It may turn but what happened to the oil clearance? It won’t be the same. Are the bores still round? Not likely.

Well obviously all the situation you mentioned are all good ! 3 of the motors are still running in the 9 second zone 1/4 ! The other is pretty slow at 10.90 1/4 ! All hold good oil pressure. All have been running 3 years now ! All are also street driven ! I feel pretty sure you can think of a lot more reason why you have to have your motors honed or lined bored !! And if that’s what you want to do that’s great ! Do it ! Stop mean mugging my post or someone else’s post that don’t agree with your theory of wasting your money !! You could be taking a motor right now to the machine shop getting it honed or bored ! I don’t care and could care less what you do !! The difference in the way you build a motor and I build a motor ! See I measure everything before I build ! So I know all the answers to the questions before I build ! I guess you don’t ! So with that said put the crankshaft in the motor and spin it with it torqued into place ! If the crankshaft spins freely you are good to go ! All these ifs ifs ifs ifs ifs that you talk about could happen ! If you don’t tighten the oil pan bolts it will leak oil to .. if you don’t put any oil in the engine and run down the interstate the engine is going to lockup !! If you don’t put fuel in the gas tank you might run out of gas !! IF YOU WANT TO LINE HONE OR LINE BORE YOUR ENGINES IN YOUR CARS, TRUCKS, LAWN MOWER go get it done !! Do it !! The fact still remains tho if your motor doesn’t need to be lined honed or lined bored it doesn’t need to be !! You make it sound like after every pass at the drag strip you have to pull a motor and have lined honed or lined bored !! Which is fine with me !! Get it done ! Has I said in my original post! If you have any tightness in the turning of your crankshaft. Yes then that would be the time to fined out what’s going on !! If you don’t agree with that !! I don’t care !! Facts are facts !! I’ve said all I’m going to say in this ! Have a good day Sir !!

 

[yellow rose]

Well obviously all the situation you mentioned are all good ! 3 of the motors are still running in the 9 second zone 1/4 ! The other is pretty slow at 10.90 1/4 ! All hold good oil pressure. All have been running 3 years now ! All are also street driven ! I feel pretty sure you can think of a lot more reason why you have to have your motors honed or lined bored !! And if that’s what you want to do that’s great ! Do it ! Stop mean mugging my post or someone else’s post that don’t agree with your theory of wasting your money !! You could be taking a motor right now to the machine shop getting it honed or bored ! I don’t care and could care less what you do !! The difference in the way you build a motor and I build a motor ! See I measure everything before I build ! So I know all the answers to the questions before I build ! I guess you don’t ! So with that said put the crankshaft in the motor and spin it with it torqued into place ! If the crankshaft spins freely you are good to go ! All these ifs ifs ifs ifs ifs that you talk about could happen ! If you don’t tighten the oil pan bolts it will leak oil to .. if you don’t put any oil in the engine and run down the interstate the engine is going to lockup !! If you don’t put fuel in the gas tank you might run out of gas !! IF YOU WANT TO LINE HONE OR LINE BORE YOUR ENGINES IN YOUR CARS, TRUCKS, LAWN MOWER go get it done !! Do it !! The fact still remains tho if your motor doesn’t need to be lined honed or lined bored it doesn’t need to be !! You make it sound like after every pass at the drag strip you have to pull a motor and have lined honed or lined bored !! Which is fine with me !! Get it done ! Has I said in my original post! If you have any tightness in the turning of your crankshaft. Yes then that would be the time to fined out what’s going on !! If you don’t agree with that !! I don’t care !! Facts are facts !! I’ve said all I’m going to say in this ! Have a good day Sir !!

LOL You seem a bit triggered. You can line hone or not. Why piss your pants over it?

 

[famous bob]

I agree. You can always add errors and compromise to any machining process. From the factory these things had tolerances all over the map.

I’ve never checked it (because the fix is worse than the disease) but I’m betting it you lined up 10 brand new OE blocks and measured cam to crank distance they’d all be different and Id bet good money that some wouldn’t be within blueprint specs.

I always line hone everything. If the crank needs a grind I size the bore to minimum (or a few tenths under), snap the bearing in there and measure the bore. Then I tell the crank grinder where I want the mains, even if it’s UNDER a minimum. I leave the hole a few tenths under in case the guy grinding the crank misses and gets the crank big. Then I can take a bit out and still be on the low side of the bearing bore and get my clearances.

I’m not into using different size bearings to get clearance. Drives me nuts.

If you aren’t using the line hone to set your clearance you are swapping bearings or you have to let it be what it be. I’d rather know what I have, with straight round holes then to save a bit of money.

Hard to argue w/ that !^^^^^^^^^^^