MOPARTOYA
RGA68RB
68 Valiant Manual Brakes, Disc's front, Drums Rear. Can I run the line from master cyl. to the "in" on the Adj. P Valve and the rear brake line from the "out"? AND just plug the "in & out" on the factory Brass unit?:dontknow:
Adj. P Valve Installation?
- Thread starter MOPARTOYA
- Start date
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Don't see why not. Never really thought about doing that. One of my cars I have it before the block and the other is after the block.
MOPARTOYA
RGA68RB
Thanks for the other option I didn't think to put it before the block.](*,)
Any one else know why I shouldn't by pass the block.
Any one else know why I shouldn't by pass the block.
green1
Well-Known Member
how are you going to double flare the line that you are cutting off? $50 kit won't do it.
MOPARTOYA
RGA68RB
Used Ridgid #345DL $114.00 + tax., works great for Dbl. Flaring. Did all new front brake lines and new fuel line 3/8.:coffee2::thumbup:
MOPARTOYA
RGA68RB
I have re-blead the rears with the adj. valve wide open and pedal still has to be pumped-up. I'll re-do front on Sat. and close the adj. valve to see what happens?
PS. Keith at MoparMagic informs me to leave out the Adj. P-Valve unless it is absolutly needed. If the rear with drums (fronts with Disc's) if the tires squel without lock up and stops straight things are ok, stay with stock brass unit. The adding of the Adj. P-Valve may make things worse or only equally as good as Brass unit if it is working fine on it's own. Going one size larger on the rear brake cyl. or changing to disc's is another option?
PS. Keith at MoparMagic informs me to leave out the Adj. P-Valve unless it is absolutly needed. If the rear with drums (fronts with Disc's) if the tires squel without lock up and stops straight things are ok, stay with stock brass unit. The adding of the Adj. P-Valve may make things worse or only equally as good as Brass unit if it is working fine on it's own. Going one size larger on the rear brake cyl. or changing to disc's is another option?
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