adjusting valves

[moparker]

Can anyone give me a tried and true way to adjust valves on solid lift motor? Does have to be done hot? Can you do it cold? Do you do it cold than hot? I have a sequence chart and shop manuals. Any advice would be helpful.

 

[kocuda]

Don't know what make of cam you have, does'nt matter. Go to crane cams web site. They have detailed instructions on setting valves with flat tappets.
I have a crane cam and the directions were great. They even tell you how to bump the engine to get the lobe where you need it for the adjustment.
BUT, you must do the adjustment with the engine at opperating temp.
Good luck!
Ken

 

[oldguy]

I normally set them a couple of thousands more open, cold, for initial start up. After running long enough to bring the engine up to temp I reset the valves to book specs. If you are just resetting the lash, warm up engine and then check lash and adjust as necessary. I usually set them to a go, no go gap. That is, say the lash is .010, that gauge should slid though with a little drag and then check the lash with an .011 gauge. It should not go through. This is the way I've always done it. If there is an easier way someone will chime in here. Good luck!

 

[2shelbys]

Can anyone give me a tried and true way to adjust valves on solid lift motor? Does have to be done hot? Can you do it cold? Do you do it cold than hot? I have a sequence chart and shop manuals. Any advice would be helpful.

If you are starting from scratch with a new valvetrain or after assembly go with what "oldguy" said about cold start-up. If you are just checking and adjusting then you definitely want the engine at operating temperature. Again, use your gap gauges in the "go, no go" way that "oldguy" said. I use a socket and breaker bar to slowly turn over the engine. I use this procedure:

with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve

with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve

It wouldn't make much difference on the street but if you are racing you can play with the lash a little and change the characteristics of the engine's performance. Tightening up the lash by one or two thousanths (NO MORE!) makes the cam look bigger and can give you better high-RPM horsepower at the cost of some low-end torque. If you want to improve your 60 foot times you can open up the lash a thousanth or two (NO MORE!!) which makes the cam look smaller and boosts low-end torque at the cost of some high-end horsepower. On a street engine just set it to spec for the cam.

 

[moparker]

I'm just adjusting. You guys are great. I have had some friends help me in the past but, it's time I learn to do it on my own. The thing is until I talked to tou guys everyone had a different way to do it. Thanks again, Mike

 

[496dart]

you can set them cold , just figure / adjust "about" .004 or so tighter when cold . The lash will open a little after they warm up.

An easy way to do it--start at #1 and bump /turn the motor over until the valve next to it is open then adjust the closed valve. Move to the next valve and do the same thing. When done, go back and re-check . If your stuff is NEw , I would run the engine until hot and pull the covers back off and re-check . Ive also used the MP valve chart to do it.

Mine have NEVER changed much but i still check 2 - 3 times a year to be safe.

This works for me--there are a few other ways to do it as already posted .


Ive had mine adjusted as much as .006 difference (as in .014 vs .020) to try and see some ET gain. Didnt make a difference on my car.

 

[dusterdon]

If you have the time, set them cold upon initial breakin. After they have been run in a while, readjust them warmed up. Then recheck them cold later on. See how much they open up. If you need to adjust them later you can do it cold, using the numbers you have.

 

[FASTBACK340]

Might want to print this out and bring it out to the garage....