Alt. light flickering at high rpm???

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crazy 340

crazy 340

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I have this problem for the last few years
but never was that bad

Id replace the alternator for a 1 wire like this one

Hughes Engines

I went back to the shop that sold me this alternator asking if he could test it
it end up ok atleast that what he is telling me

with a multimeter if I connect to the alt stud and alt body it show 14.73 volt
and if I do the same test but ground the amp meter to the block and the other wire to the alt stud it show 15.... volt (that I dont understand) and its weird

instal #4 wire between the alternator and the relay starter
didnt help either
but the amp meter always showing disharge and to me its ok like that because most of the electricity go back to the batery by that wire and yes its still fleakering

replace the wire and terminal at the cowl dash
Under the dash and engine side
didnt help

replaced the batery ( FORGOT TO SAY IT IS IN THE TRUNK )
didnt help

instal new ground wire from the batery to the engine#1-0 size wire
and same size from the batery to the body of car

replace the pos. wire because I didnt instaled it and didnt know how it was so...
found a splice in that wire that wasnt right to me so Id replace it with # 2-0 size wire
from the batery to the starter relay
didnt help

all the terminals are copper and welded

WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG

at this point I think Im gonna let it burn to the ground and I will see where it was bad

please help me

forgot to say it happen at 2500 rpm and higher
also have ferd contour fan set up
first speed ON all the time and when I started the second speed
everything seem to be ok

needing more juice seem to fix the problem THATS EVEN WEIRDER
 
crazy 340 said:
I have this problem for the last few years
but never was that bad

Id replace the alternator for a 1 wire like this one

Hughes Engines

I went back to the shop that sold me this alternator asking if he could test it
it end up ok atleast that what he is telling me

with a multimeter if I connect to the alt stud and alt body it show 14.73 volt
and if I do the same test but ground the amp meter to the block and the other wire to the alt stud it show 15.... volt (that I dont understand) and its weird

instal #4 wire between the alternator and the relay starter
didnt help either
but the amp meter always showing disharge and to me its ok like that because most of the electricity go back to the batery by that wire and yes its still fleakering

replace the wire and terminal at the cowl dash
Under the dash and engine side
didnt help

replaced the batery ( FORGOT TO SAY IT IS IN THE TRUNK )
didnt help

instal new ground wire from the batery to the engine#1-0 size wire
and same size from the batery to the body of car

replace the pos. wire because I didnt instaled it and didnt know how it was so...
found a splice in that wire that wasnt right to me so Id replace it with # 2-0 size wire
from the batery to the starter relay
didnt help

all the terminals are copper and welded

WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG

at this point I think Im gonna let it burn to the ground and I will see where it was bad

please help me

forgot to say it happen at 2500 rpm and higher
also have ferd contour fan set up
first speed ON all the time and when I started the second speed
everything seem to be ok

needing more juice seem to fix the problem THATS EVEN WEIRDER
Click to expand...

Have you looked for AC voltage riding on the DC? Maybe the voltage regulators diodes aren't cleaning up the DC good enough giving you "pulsed DC". Maybe try pulling fuses one by one (at least the ones that will allow the vehicle to keep running) and see if that shows you a bad circuit. Good luck.
 
yes I did look for the AC voltage and it s ok
dont remember what it was friend hade the multimeter in is hands
less than 1 volt

why when the car ask more AMP or electricity should I say
every thing seem to be ok

thing that use more electricity than the oe

-Holley black fuel pump
-fan ( ferd contour set up )
-msd 6al
-sounds system with a big BIG amplifier but the radio is off when
it do this weird thing
 
Might be time to test alternator at parts store. An internal field short to rotor, and grounding by bearings, in may increase voltage output with flicker. That fits with greater voltage, light load too. The regulator could call for zero field, but short provides path. 1 wire alternators are hard to diagnose, when the field wiring is not where it can be monitored. It could also be badly internal regulator, but less likely. Who knows..... not many fix with small parts these days, they are even hard to get. Just swap it, some poor folk will get it back in a cheep rebuild, and pass it down the line.
 
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yap tomorrow night will get the alternator out
will bring it to napa
will see what happen
 
I have the same problem. - See my post re: Amp Meter Jumping, and Head Lights Flickering, on a 65 Valiant. -- I'll follow Your post, also.
 
found the problem or fix the problem should I say

install a new neg cable from the bat to block and an other
from an other one from the block to the aternator
that cure mine
 
See My series of posts, regarding this problem. -- I just fixed it, today. - The details are on post #12.
 
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you know what it aint fix

the other day was driving at day light everything was going find
amp meter was in the middle and steady
stop for diner left the restaurant when it dark outside so turn the lights on
the moment the engine get close to 2600 rpm the light began to flick again

today when for the last ride of the season
ounce again amp meter steady
stop at the car wash
and came back home

the engine was running find
got the car in the garage
got the engine at higher rpm look at the tach light and was steady
turn the lights on every thing began to flicks again

didnt have much time
so grab the multimeter and and it show 14.9 to 15.3

why is it charging so much
why does flick the light like that
 
When I ever have time again, a friend/cust. has the same problem w/their 'cuda, I will try to 'member to post what I find here.
 
I ran a wire from the voltage regulator to the ballast resistor, per a suggestion from this site, and it solved the problem, of flickering lights. --- I don't know the technical reason, for why it worked -- But -- it solved the problem.
 
RPMagoo said:
I ran a wire from the voltage regulator to the ballast resistor, per a suggestion from this site, and it solved the problem, of flickering lights. --- I don't know the technical reason, for why it worked -- But -- it solved the problem.
Click to expand...
Nothing special about that, a connection from IGN1 of ignition switch should be there in stock wiring, unless someone has messed with it. The reason for wire, it powers the regulator, and is the "sense" point for the voltage being regulated.

In post #1, a one wire alternator is being used, the regulator is internal to alternator, so no place to connect the wire, just added confusion.....
 
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crazy 340 said:
you know what it aint fix

the other day was driving at day light everything was going find
amp meter was in the middle and steady
stop for diner left the restaurant when it dark outside so turn the lights on
the moment the engine get close to 2600 rpm the light began to flick again

today when for the last ride of the season
ounce again amp meter steady
stop at the car wash
and came back home

the engine was running find
got the car in the garage
got the engine at higher rpm look at the tach light and was steady
turn the lights on every thing began to flicks again

didnt have much time
so grab the multimeter and and it show 14.9 to 15.3

why is it charging so much
why does flick the light like that
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have tried electrical solutions and those do not work. Perhaps the problem is mechanical, slipping belt, bent pulley, or loose pulley on alternator. How can that make lights flicker? They can flicker when there is an interaction by the regulator. Here is what can happen, this is the type of slip that may happen 1/2 way around a pulley. The slip drops the alternator output voltage, the regulator adjusts for more, by that time the slip stops, and the voltage is too high, the regulator adjusts, but by then the slip happens, so the result is lower ..... the regulator is out of sync.
 
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KitCarlson said:
-- In post #1, a one wire alternator is being used, the regulator is internal to alternator, so no place to connect the wire, just added confusion.....
Click to expand...
-- Yep ! -- Thanks
 
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