alternator question

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Rockatansky

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just curious what you guys are all running for alternators on your cars

mine is stock, but i have a 60 amp from a '72 in the garage i was thinking about going to.

but i also want to make sure if i do that swap that i change the other parts i need to change.

i believe if you do that it's recommended to upgrade to the newer regulator from the electronic cars correct? i no longer have points but i still have the old regulator and rectifier in the car.

i've also heard to run heavier wire to the amp gauge. the stock ammeter is still in the car, but i also have an aftermarket one in there, which i have to assume came with wiring that can handle a modern alternator output, so i would probably just disconnect the stocker.

so is it a worthwhile swap to bother with?

or am i better off just going with an internally regulated one with actual modern high amps if i'm going to go through all that?

i don't have real hangups about originality as far as what came in the car, but i do sort of prefer at least keeping things look period, so if i can get a little amperage upgrade while keeping some cool vintage mopar stuff under the hood i would like to go that route.

just curious what setups everyone else is running?

for the record, other than headlights and plugging a phone or garmin into the lighter, i don't use much juice. i have no radio, no fancy lights. just a crane CD ignition and accel super coil, both of which function fine now.
 
100 amp. By pass amp meter. Msd,so no ballest resister. Running external voltage regulator. I run electric fuel pump, headlights off relay, electric fans, amp for stereo.
 
100 amp. By pass amp meter. Msd,so no ballest resister. Running external voltage regulator. I run electric fuel pump, headlights off relay, electric fans, amp for stereo.
an electronic reg is a good addition, the old ones can be problematic. I would clean ALL terminals/connections including ground paths & I would run 2 wires straight thru the bulkhead for the (2) main in/out wires (drill out the 2 on each side bulkhead cavities (tossing the 4 brass terminals) and leave 3 or 4" inches of wire length on the inside under the dash so if you seperate the bulkhead again to clean terminals you can pull the forward half out that far. this will give you a top notch system as far as minimal voltage drops. relay add ons to the alt & never use the alt to charge a depleted battery. stay with an externally regulated alt. keep th aammeter needle close to 12 O'clock at all times, this shows the system is in equilibrium, that the alt is supplying the system needs & he batt is pretty much out of the picture as far as charging or discharging & is only being topped off slightly. highest OE alt is a 78 amper for an 85 M body & needs the chebby swing bracket. there is the 100 amp Leece Neville beast which is heavy & has its own bracketry (does work well.
 
100 amp. By pass amp meter. Msd,so no ballest resister. Running external voltage regulator. I run electric fuel pump, headlights off relay, electric fans, amp for stereo.

Same here just run a one wire alternator.
 
105a gm cs130 alternator, minor mods and few parts required. over the counter unit for late 80's early 90's gm 5.7 trucks (small block) early/ mid 90's buick century 3.3 (big block)
 
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