Any ppg painters out there ?

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cawley

cawley

383 Bcuda
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Yo, This is Cawley. I have been painting cars for some time now & I always used PPG. I just painted my uncles AAR cuda. I got a massive problem. I never had a problem like this. Ive always used the ncc sealer w/ shopline base & the 4000 clear. This time they didn't have the good sealer, so got the shopline name brand sealer. I did nothing different. Now the problem- I went to untape the car & part of the paint peeled off. So I grabbed the edge of the paint & peeled off a FT. XFT. section. So I started peeling & I peeled off every inch of paint off by hand ( the whole car ) It took me about an hour & half to strip the whole car. The quarters, doors, fenders, trunk lid, all but jambs. I have no idea what went wrong. Just the base & clear came off. It peeled off in sheets.. Anybody have any ideas ?:wack:
 
doug 371 said:
how long between sealer and base?
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It calls for 15min at 70 deg. My booth was running around 68deg. So I waited an extra 10 minutes. Talked to my local PPG supplier & he has no clue. He did give me more base for free to do the car over.
 
:coffee2:Wow, that sucks. I painted my BC with PPG Concept but it has been a while. I may be wrong but shouldn't the sealer be the first thing on the car. I sealed my car with a two part sealer then did the body work using a high grade PPG high build primer. When I had the car where I wanted it I blocked it out the best I could and wiped the whole car down with degreaser and lintless towels. Then I shot the color and color/clear. Temperature was about 75-80 degrees and the only time consideration I used was between the coats of color (3 coats) and 50/50 color/clear. (three coats) Sounds to me like you had an incompatibility between the sealer and the color. Be very careful going forward, I would need more information about product from the vendor before I went to the work again. Good Luck!:cheers:
 
DesertRat said:
:coffee2:Wow, that sucks. I painted my BC with PPG Concept but it has been a while. I may be wrong but shouldn't the sealer be the first thing on the car. I sealed my car with a two part sealer then did the body work using a high grade PPG high build primer. When I had the car where I wanted it I blocked it out the best I could and wiped the whole car down with degreaser and lintless towels. Then I shot the color and color/clear. Temperature was about 75-80 degrees and the only time consideration I used was between the coats of color (3 coats) and 50/50 color/clear. (three coats) Sounds to me like you had an incompatibility between the sealer and the color. Be very careful going forward, I would need more information about product from the vendor before I went to the work again. Good Luck!:cheers:
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I've been using PPG for 15 years and I've used a lot of their sealers. What I've found that works best for me is DPLF epoxy with DP401LF catalyst on all bare metal and before bodywork followed with good 2K primer-surfacer, re-coat any bare metal again with DPLF and primer-surfacer. When the car is all prepped for paint, I give it one coat of DPLF,DP401LF, and reducer, mixed 2:1:1 as a sealer. Follow DPLF instructions CLOSELY. Best there is IMO!
 
Cawley, to fix your sealer problem, I would sand all sealer with 400 grit, clean with D837, and give it a coat of DPLF with DP401LF. Then paint. DP will bond to almost anything! Good luck
 
Well its done again. Da sanded the whole car with 400, resealed with NCS 2004 sealer. Untaped it & so far no problems. Had a PPG paint rep. stop in & he took a piece of base/ clear with him. He is gona find the problem for me.
 
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