oi81b4uu812b4
Well-Known Member
The subframe connectors were still welded in. They glued in the floor pan patches and torque boxes.
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Any tips on fitting the US Car Tool Sub Frame connectors?
- Thread starter Graminizer
- Start date
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The subframe connectors were still welded in. They glued in the floor pan patches and torque boxes.
I think he was trying to imply that here,
“bond the connectors to the floor“, but could have been a little clearer. Other wise we would start getting idiots like my old neighbor, trying to JBWeld his brake caliper pin back on.
“bond the connectors to the floor“, but could have been a little clearer. Other wise we would start getting idiots like my old neighbor, trying to JBWeld his brake caliper pin back on.
1969superbee
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the confusion, yes bonded and welded if you read the article.
oi81b4uu812b4
Well-Known Member
Not sure if I would use Panel Bond on an area for chassis stiffening on an old car not designed to use it.
Panel Bond works best if there is a large area of overlap, and the two surfaces have to be parallel and flat to each other, so when the panels get clamped together and most of the Panel Bond squeezes out. If you leave it too thick, those areas just pop apart and the Panel Bond just peals away. Then it just rusts away where if pealed apart... And from my experience if its used in a place that will fatigue, the panels pop apart.
Just weld your chassis stiffening on. Most people complain about overhead welding because they don't suit up and protect themselves from sparks well enough. And most people are over trimming their US Car Tool subframe connectors because they aren't forcing them into the floor pan with a jack or pushing their sheet metal floor down to weld them.
I'm definitely not sure what value a glued together classic car is going to have.
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