Any Zero-Turn Mower Experts?

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The PO said they were torn down and rebuilt? IF that's the case, if new fluid/filter/bleed doesn't cure it you may have to pull it apart and make sure it looks OK.

Clean, clean clean the case before you pull it apart, clean work surface. Take lots of reference pics during disassembly. Watch as you open the case, if memory serves there was a wild *** spring in there, lol. Mine is a 2006 as well, Toro, so probably quite similar to my wheel motors.
 
Bad Sport said:
The PO said they were torn down and rebuilt? IF that's the case, if new fluid/filter/bleed doesn't cure it you may have to pull it apart and make sure it looks OK.

Clean, clean clean the case before you pull it apart, clean work surface. Take lots of reference pics during disassembly. Watch as you open the case, if memory serves there was a wild *** spring in there, lol. Mine is a 2006 as well, Toro, so probably quite similar to my wheel motors.
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Yes he did. It is clean, but to me it doesn't appear as if it's been replaced. I'll see about finding the proper bleed procedure to get all of the air out of it.
 
RammerJammer75 said:
I'm working on an '06 (If I remember correctly) Exmark Lazer Z 72" mower that is having hydro issues. on flat/down grade it does fine, but going up a hill the left side shudders and bogs really bad, but doesn't make noise. I'm suspecting wheel motor, but there is no debris in the oil tank and the oil looks fairly clean. The PO claimed all the hydros were gone through and redone, but of course no paperwork. My thought would be the pump would howl if that were the issue, but I'm at a loss. I know the correct way is to pressure check the pump, but I'm guessing others have had this issue before. Any thoughts?
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I vote pump------------
 
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Alright, so I found a digital copy of the service manual. It's odd to me how they say to bleed it. I also discovered it's an '08, not an '06. Does this seem right? It's pulled directly off of Exmark's website, I looked it up via the model and serial number.
 
Your Exmark is a little different than my Toro. I have 2 filters. Partially fill oil filters before installing. Remove both vent plugs, add oil through the reservoir until oil comes out of a vent, install that vent plug and continue to add oil until it comes out the other vent, install that vent plug. Then fill reservoir to the cold oil line. Sit in the seat, start engine, 1/2 throttle, release parking brake. It now says to release the push machine levers, you have to release these if you want to move the machine when the engine is off. With the bypass valves open, slowly move the forward backward levers 5 or 6 times, all forward then backward. Now release those bypass levers or valves back to close them, now slowly move your forward backward levers 5 or 6 times. Now check the expansion reservoir for full to cold level line. May have to repeat this procedure untill the drives are purged of air.
My service interval is 50 hrs first and 400 there after. Guessing that EXmark is geared more towards commercial use, hence more frequent oil and filter change.

So, does your machine have these little release levers? Mine are on the deck on either side of the engine, just a heavy wire in a curved slot.
 
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Also, if this Exmark has a roll over structure, fold it back if you are mowing around trees. That bar catching a tree limb will ***** slap you so hard that you won't even believe it, it could kill you. I found this out the first time that I mowed.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Your Exmark is a little different than my Toro. I have 2 filters. Partially fill oil filters before installing. Remove both vent plugs, add oil through the reservoir until oil comes out of a vent, install that vent plug and continue to add oil until it comes out the other vent, install that vent plug. Then fill reservoir to the cold oil line. Sit in the seat, start engine, 1/2 throttle, release parking brake. It now says to release the push machine levers, you have to release these if you want to move the machine when the engine is off. With the bypass valves open, slowly move the forward backward levers 5 or 6 times, all forward then backward. Now release those bypass levers or valves back to close them, now slowly move your forward backward levers 5 or 6 times. Now check the expansion reservoir for full to cold level line. May have to repeat this procedure untill the drives are purged of air.
My service interval is 50 hrs first and 400 there after. Guessing that EXmark is geared more towards commercial use, hence more frequent oil and filter change.

So, does your machine have these little release levers? Mine are on the deck on either side of the engine, just a heavy wire in a curved slot.
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I haven't had a chance to check it out yet. But that's straight from Exmark on how to change the fluid/filter and bleed the system.
 
Alright, just getting to this thing. Changed the hydro oil/filter, bled the system like Exmark says and it made zero difference. It's only when it's pulling a hill that it almost stops pulling on the left side. I'm thinking it has to be the pump or the wheel motor, but it still makes zero howling or growling (ran it at idle and I cannot hear any abnormal noise). Any other thoughts?
 
RammerJammer75 said:
Alright, just getting to this thing. Changed the hydro oil/filter, bled the system like Exmark says and it made zero difference. It's only when it's pulling a hill that it almost stops pulling on the left side. I'm thinking it has to be the pump or the wheel motor, but it still makes zero howling or growling (ran it at idle and I cannot hear any abnormal noise). Any other thoughts?
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My zero turn Swisher does the same thing when the wheel pump belt starts to go loose. Make sure your belts are not worn enough to where they are running in the bottom of the V- Grooves on the pullies. Also check to see the pullies are not all glazed from belts that have slipped.

Mine eats belts left and right, so I always have spares on hand and go again. Other than that excellent machine.

I change oil in the hydro units from time to time.

Might want to check to see you are running the factory recommended fluid in your hydro units, can make a difference. That John Deere Hyguard Hydraulic Oil would probably work well in there.

There are 2 types of hydraulic fluids, one that will absorb a small amount of moisture and one that will allow moisture to settle to the bottom and can be drained out.

Good Luck
 
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George Jets said:
My zero turn Swisher does the same thing when the wheel pump belt starts to go loose. Make sure your belts are not worn enough to where they are running in the bottom of the V- Grooves on the pullies. Also check to see the pullies are not all glazed from belts that have slipped.

Mine eats belts left and right, so I always have spares on hand and go again. Other than that excellent machine.

I change oil in the hydro units from time to time.

Might want to check to see you are running the factory recommended fluid in your hydro units, can make a difference. That John Deere Hyguard Hydraulic Oil would probably work well in there.

There are 2 types of hydraulic fluids, one that will absorb a small amount of moisture and one that will allow moisture to settle to the bottom and can be drained out.

Good Luck
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This runs a serpentine belt off the flywheel for the hydros. I used Mobile-1 like Exmark recommends. Belt was replaced and the tensioner seems to be keeping the belt tight. I would think both would lose pressure and not pull if the belt were slipping. I'm leaning more towards a weak pump or a wore wheel motor.
 
Any linkage that may be going down to the hydro motors, worn or loose not allowing the hydo valves to fully open and give full pressure to that wheel.

Wonder if there is some line pressure port on hydro motors that you can screw a oil pressure gauge into to see what pressure they are running at? Compare left to right side pressures.

Take one of those infra-red heat temp guns on the hydro motors after running it for a bit. Check temps between the two sides. Or just feel them by hand, careful it could burn you if running hot.

Would think if the hydro motors had leak by, (wearing out) that the temperature of that motor would be running higher temp because of the inefficiency of it.

Had that problem with the front deck hydraulic motor on a golf course mower. That front deck would slow down and almost stop, enough heat there too that it would steam the water from a garden hose spraying on it.

Replaced the hydraulic motor on the deck and all was good again, and the running temperature returned to normal.

(450.00 cost on that hydraulic replacement deck motor, Ouch! But solved the problem.)

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A little more diagnosing. I made a linkage adjustment to the left pump since I noticed it wasn't equal to the right at full forward position. It made a difference, until it had ran for a bit. Shut it down and checked the hydro reservoir and noticed a good deal of aeration in the oil. Seems to me like it's sucking some air from somewhere, but it doesn't leak. Possibly the crimps on the hydro lines?
 
Power steering systems will have aeration in the oil when you first put them together. Had that happen with a Corvette. Had to let it sit 24 hours and make sure I had all the air bled out of the system, warm it up and do not over fill or under fill it.

Think you were saying you just serviced your system with new oil and filter, may just need to let the air work out of it.
 
Alright, just to finally wrap this thread up. I've been trying to diagnose the issue with this mower, and finally took it to an Exmark Dealer for them to check it out and pressure test the hydro pump. They stated the pump was weak, but couldn't guarantee the wheel motor wasn't shot either. They priced 1500 bucks just to get started. The pump alone was almost 700, not including any lines or if it was also a bad wheel motor. Mom asked them what they would do, and the guy told her there was no way he would put that kind of money into that mower. Another guy made an offer on it and she took it, so it's gone now. His buddy is an Exmark dealer in Kentucky, so they'll probably fix it or use it for parts.
 
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